Bare Naked SFC1000

Rockitdoc said:
Coils cleaned up nicely.

P1000968_zpse8fef547.jpg

Put them on the shelf also and replace them with TEKs or Dynos

They're junk
 
Rockitdoc said:
specific recommendations for model numbers, etc?

Scott, Dyna (OK, OK, I meant to say Tek, Dyna are probably better but way more expensive) KP03 coils, from a Kawasaki Ninja EX250 or similar (you'll need 3, though, and don't use the ones from the KX250 dirt bike). About $10 each on eBay (from realistic sellers, don't pay more), and they rarely decay with age (even so, get newer ones if you have a choice). New high tension leads and plug caps from AutoZone or similar would be a good idea, but not really essential.


Ken
 
there is nothing wrong with the Nippon Denso coils, they will be fine
spend your bucks on something else

and if you still wish to change, you would be looking for TEK KP-03 coils from a Kawa Ninja, not Dyna who don't make a KP-03 coil
 
I don't reckon it matters what coils you use as long as they are within the correct primary resistance range for the ignition you're using. I've used TEC coils off various Hondas on a couple of Laverda ignition upgrades. I don't remember what numbers they had on them, but they were 3 Ohm coils and worked fine.
 
the beauty of the TEK KP-03 Coils is that they bolt straight in to the original Laverda heat sink brackets

 
G'day Red

I didn't know that. I've never had an original Laverda coil bracket.

The ones I've upgraded have had the HKZ ignition with the built in coils. The whole lot gets chucked in the bin, so you have to make your own coil brackets, then weld a couple of tabs on the frame to mount them.

Cam
 
I?ve been playing with coils recently whilst working on a couple of friend?s Guzzis. One was fitted with a set of sealed plastic bodied Magneti Marelli coils that have a thin metal sleeve that they slide into. I thought it was to help protect them and to act as a heat shield too but I?m sure there is more to it now. The sleeves get too hot to hold whilst the plastic body is warm but nowhere near as hot. I measured both the sleeve and body before start up with an IR thermometer. Both were 24 C. After a few minutes of idle and warm up the body was 35 C but the sleeve was 60 C, 25 C hotter! Clearly the sleeve was absorbing energy from elsewhere, not just by heat conduction from the coil. I can only assume as the field in the coil collapses EMF is released and the metal sleeve acts as a radiation shield as well as a heat sink.

I would be reluctant to throw out any metal shield/absorber/antenna provided in a system. If you have done so before with no ill effects then it must be OK but I find that most bits provided in a bike have a purpose, sometimes not all that obvious.

Different coils? I had a standard oil filled, metal cased coil fail on me recently. I fitted a set of Bosch GT40T coils on it and the difference has been measurable. Easier starting and I?ve needed to up te idle jet to keep colour on the plugs. Economy has improved in the vicinity of 10% too. Far too big for this application I would think.

Just my findings.

Rod
 
Removing fork seal and broke top of the cast aluminum body. (this was in a previous post elsewhere in the forum looking for advice on how to repair)
P1000894_zps6d76314d.jpg


Took it to my consulting welder and poof!  Repaired gooder than new.  Here it is repainted and ready for fork rebuild:

P1000974_zps37e61fda.jpg


Both bodies:
P1000975_zps618f51f6.jpg


More to come...
 
Cosi said:
Put them on the shelf also and replace them with TEKs or Dynos

They're junk

Only junk I see in the pic are the plug caps, Cosi... :D

Coils are just about fuckin' bulletproof!  Pity the bracket ain't, it often fractures if not mounted securely.

I use a hook intended for mounting exhaust system springs to extract oil seals from fork sliders.  Hook it under the seal and a good jerk will have it out within milliseconds without endangering the fragile slider.

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
Only junk I see in the pic are the plug caps, Cosi... :D

Coils are just about fuckin' bulletproof!  Pity the bracket ain't, it often fractures if not mounted securely.

I use a hook intended for mounting exhaust system springs to extract oil seals from fork sliders.  Hook it under the seal and a good jerk will have it out within milliseconds without endangering the fragile slider.

piet

Excellent idea that.  Hooks for stretching exhaust springs!  Why didn't I think of that!
 
sfcpiet said:
Only junk I see in the pic are the plug caps, Cosi... :D

Coils are just about fuckin' bulletproof!  Pity the bracket ain't, it often fractures if not mounted securely.

I use a hook intended for mounting exhaust system springs to extract oil seals from fork sliders.  Hook it under the seal and a good jerk will have it out within milliseconds without endangering the fragile slider.

piet

What plug caps do you recommend?

 
Possible without ring compressors but trickier.
I used a coke can and jubilee clips once. Prefer to do it without these days.
 
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