Burning Cash for nothing

I have a compressor and a gadget in the line from the compressor and it fits on the rear wheel but that gauge was crap even before I stood on it. The graduations were that small you couldn't pick a 5 psi difference. And my old digital gadget died a good while back. Just to show how important tyre pressures are the last ride with the new tyre fitted and I checked it with the new digital gauge that actually fits on the front wheel showed 34psi and it tracked so straight I loved it. Today I used my usual 37psi and it was way less stable and it kicked off bumps lots more. So it's 34 from now on. Might be a placebo, 3 psi noticeable, apparently to my arse.
 
Brett said:
Yep the cap is part of the sealing mechanism as Paul has said.. you should be checking your tyres also when they are cold so best place to do is at home...
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I always thought I had a pretty good understanding of motorcycle tire pressure and how to set it correctly, then I watched this Dave Moss video. 
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XaIuWKfnGEI
 
Vince said:
I have a compressor and a gadget in the line from the compressor and it fits on the rear wheel but that gauge was crap even before I stood on it. The graduations were that small you couldn't pick a 5 psi difference. And my old digital gadget died a good while back. Just to show how important tyre pressures are the last ride with the new tyre fitted and I checked it with the new digital gauge that actually fits on the front wheel showed 34psi and it tracked so straight I loved it. Today I used my usual 37psi and it was way less stable and it kicked off bumps lots more. So it's 34 from now on. Might be a placebo, 3 psi noticeable, apparently to my arse.
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I bought one of these Milwaukee 12v battery inflator recently and has he gauge built in. I am really pleased with it. It helps if you have other battery tools in this Milwaukee range as you need a battery and charger too.
 
Watched the video and it seems (unless I missed something) that he was running the same pressure front and rear. Thought the general rule of thumb was to have 3 to 5 psi difference.
 
the valve cap is essential if you are racing (compulsory) or going very fast anywhere else, since centrifugal force can cause the Shraeder valve to open and release air, good caps prevent that.
CLEM
 
Can understand a good metal cap can prevent air loss under extreme centrifugal force but I can't see how the plastic 'dust caps' that come with most inner tubes could be considered as part of the sealing system. But I could be wrong, usually are.
 
The plastic caps are made from a pretty hard sort of plastic so the thread can be done up as tight as you can get with your fingers. And they have an O-ring inside that seals against the valve tube. I still prefer steel caps (and they're the type specified for racing) but the plastic ones appear to be fit for purpose.
 
Legs said:
Can understand a good metal cap can prevent air loss under extreme centrifugal force but I can't see how the plastic 'dust caps' that come with most inner tubes could be considered as part of the sealing system. But I could be wrong, usually are.
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one of the requirements for motorcycles running on the salt at Bonneville in the faster classes is metal valve stems in the wheels together with metal caps
 
Under certain circumstances (cleaning solvents, heat, UV rays, etc.), the plastic caps can deteriorate, making it quite easy to split them when tightening.  I've come across several split or otherwise damaged plastic caps.  Plastic caps SHOULD be replaced along with the tube/valve at every tyre change, ffs, every new tube or valve comes supplied with a new cap.  Personally, I throw them away, all my road bikes (and cars) have metal valve caps.

Metal caps with intact o-rings are mandatory here for all bike racing classes.  They won't prevent the valve inserts from opening under centrifugal forces, they only prevent air loss.

piet
 
Vince said:
<snip> Might be a placebo, 3 psi noticeable, apparently to my arse.
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Totally agree, Vince (sorry, Paul  ;)).  IME some tyres - eg Bridgestone BT45s and Avon Roadrunners (or whatever they're called these days) - can be stupidly sensitive to minor variations in pressure.  Especially as they age/wear.

Others, on the other hand, much less so ... My modern Michelin Pilot thingies, for example  (bigthumb).

Altho' for me, it's less in the arse area, more in the weavy/bouncy/jiggy front end area.  Call me sensitive, but I bloody hate front end weave  >:(.

P.s  Thanks to everyone for their comments on steel vs. plastic dust caps (congrats) .  Things I never knew - or, to be honest, had given much thought to ...

 
Vince said:
I have a compressor and a gadget in the line from the compressor and it fits on the rear wheel but that gauge was crap even before I stood on it. The graduations were that small you couldn't pick a 5 psi difference. And my old digital gadget died a good while back. Just to show how important tyre pressures are the last ride with the new tyre fitted and I checked it with the new digital gauge that actually fits on the front wheel showed 34psi and it tracked so straight I loved it. Today I used my usual 37psi and it was way less stable and it kicked off bumps lots more. So it's 34 from now on. Might be a placebo, 3 psi noticeable, apparently to my arse.
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Yes Vince that's around what I use, with BT 45s. Have tried higher pressures but come back to 33/34 front and extra 3 psi rear.
And I'm no light weight. I use same pressures when loaded up [light load] for a 1400k trip.
:cool:
 
Vince said:
I have a compressor and a gadget in the line from the compressor and it fits on the rear wheel but that gauge was crap even before I stood on it. The graduations were that small you couldn't pick a 5 psi difference.
Click to expand...

I still think in PSI. My brain has assimilated metric units for most things, but for some reason, kPa didn't sink in.

Anyway, most of the 'reasonably priced' tyre inflators I see in hardware or car shops around here have a gauge that goes to 220psi. WTF?

I dunno what pressures they put in aeroplane or mobile crane tyres but most road vehicles run less than 40psi, so you're looking at about 1/6 scale deflection on the gauge needle. If you're suffering from old bloke's eyesight it's a bit hard to see the tiny little graduations on the dial. 220 psi is a stupid gauge to put on tyre inflator. It needs to be around 50 or 60 to be able to read normal tyre pressures accurately.

Sorry about the whinge. It just pisses me off when manufacturers can't be bothered making tools that are fit for purpose.
 
I've got a really good analogue german gauge, but oddly enough it maxxes out at 35psi! Very accurate though - but need to get the head dead straight when checking or it fizzes air out. I'm with you Cam on the psi thin - just easy peasy.
 
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