Drill out

Just had a successful day drilling out the end of a broken Allen wrench in the bottom of a Ceriani fork tube.
All my fault by using a wrench with the rounded swivel end to break lose the bottom hex bolt of the forks on my 3C. I did it about 3 months ago and I struggled to get it fixed but today I took the fork out and worked at it seriously with several different sized drill bits to get around the broken tip that drilling would not touch. Took many different sized bits and some tapping with punches to maneuver the broken bit around until it would fall out. Prying it out was not going to happen given the recessed area where the bolt is and I was very worried that I was going to damage the fork tube in the process. In the end it was as good a result as I could have hoped for and I hope no one else ever has to deal with this stupid drama.

I could have fucked up badly but in the end it all came out exactly as I hoped!

Now I change the seals and get the 3C back to on the road again.

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To be clear ...... I had to drill around the broken allen head as it was too brittle to drill. I worked at it by drilling about 4 holes around it and then I worked at it with a punch to try to shift it out. Not sure exactly how I got the end result but I turned it upside down about 100 times and tapped it on the floor and then "Voila" I had the offending end of the Allen wrench on the floor. After that it was working on centering the drill and working throught the head without fucking up the fork leg.
I am feeling rather pleased that I can finish up the blue 3C and get her off the stand now!

Jim
 
Ouch, I use an 8mm bit in a rattle gun. It gets past the spinning damping syndrome that usually happens pulling fork bottoms off. Thats with the big springs still in to put a bit of pressure on to also stop that spinning. The first time I saw forks coming apart a mate jambed a cut-down broom handle down them to stop that spinning thing. Ratchet guns are way easier.
 
P.S. The Blue 3C is a North American model with LHS shift. I just discovered that the Jota Joe sidestand won't work with the LHS shift. I may look at the Paul Marx idea of moving the stand rearward to see if that works.

Jim
 
Ouch, I use an 8mm bit in a rattle gun. It gets past the spinning damping syndrome that usually happens pulling fork bottoms off. Thats with the big springs still in to put a bit of pressure on to also stop that spinning. The first time I saw forks coming apart a mate jambed a cut-down broom handle down them to stop that spinning thing. Ratchet guns are way easier.

I have bought a set of Allen/hex sockets with extended reach. I won't do that silly scenario again if I can help it.

Jim
 
I kinda remember Joe had a few different plates that worked for different gear setups but that's from memory and a long time back. And I thought Keith was developing a better plate that worked with both stands?
 
There have been multiple people working on those stand plates over the years, Rob the moderator here, Jim Bushman in Canada with the crazy beautiful MV Agustas, Keith I think was working on one that allowed both stands to be kept original, and then Jota Joe. And a bloody good job too.
 
I haven't heard anything for a good few years, I forget the details but his MV was spectacular. Maybe try doing a Google on his name and MV.
 
My cross shaft from 30 years ago memory had it running under the crankcase. It needed the case lifted a bit to piss it off for a right change conversion. That crazy loopy long rear brake cable and a gear change with way more false neutrals than gears had that happen.
 
My cross shaft from 30 years ago memory had it running under the crankcase. It needed the case lifted a bit to piss it off for a right change conversion. That crazy loopy long rear brake cable and a gear change with way more false neutrals than gears had that happen.

Aye .... but this is the bike I loan to friends that cannot comprehend RHS shift.
I may just sell it as it seems no one wants to come ride with me.

Jim
 
Well done Jim! I had a very similar struggle two nights ago with an extractor that broke its tip within the shank of a broken 8mm bolt that I had to remove from my Guzzi's crankcase. I had to drill 3 tiny holes around the extractor tip to get it out. Not much fun, and lots of opportunity for extra damage.

In the end I need to install a Time-Sert, but I was planning on doing that anyway - this is one of the threaded holes that mounts the generator bracket (which is prone to some stress.)
 
I had a very similar struggle two nights ago with an extractor that broke its tip within the shank of a broken 8mm bolt that I had to remove from my Guzzi's crankcase. I had to drill 3 tiny holes around the extractor tip to get it out. Not much fun, and lots of opportunity for extra damage.

Yeah ..... I was feeling that pain. Thinking of the prospects of searching for another lower fork leg if I damaged this one. All is well now.

Jim
 
I had a very similar struggle two nights ago with an extractor that broke its tip within the shank of a broken 8mm bolt that I had to remove from my Guzzi's crankcase.
I hate extractors for that reason. In fact, I don't even own a set these days. They're a tool invented by Satan. They only work on busted bolts that are already loose in the hole, and there are simpler ways of getting those out. Anything that's tight, stuck or seized, forget it. You'll bust the extractor tool off in the bolt and make the job a whole lot worse.
 
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