Drill out

I hate extractors for that reason. In fact, I don't even own a set these days. They're a tool invented by Satan. They only work on busted bolts that are already loose in the hole, and there are simpler ways of getting those out. Anything that's tight, stuck or seized, forget it. You'll bust the extractor tool off in the bolt and make the job a whole lot worse.
I think you are on to something... I might get rid of mine. The irony is that I successfully removed two broken 6mm bolts the previous day, using lots of heat and a Satanic extractor.
 
I have some extractors somewhere ....... absolutely useless.
best thing for drilling out this hex bolt was some aviation grade drill bits. They still wouldn't touch the broken allen head but they were precise enough to drill around it without going off on a tangent and fucking up the fork leg. Still took me about 3 hours of drill a bit and try and figure out how far not to go. Once the sides were chewed out then I could prise out the broken bit then drill the center with a larger bit.

Whisky and a cigar when I was done.

Jim
 
I hate extractors for that reason. In fact, I don't even own a set these days. They're a tool invented by Satan. They only work on busted bolts that are already loose in the hole, and there are simpler ways of getting those out. Anything that's tight, stuck or seized, forget it. You'll bust the extractor tool off in the bolt and make the job a whole lot worse.
Yet …. I bought a set along with matching l/h twist bits, almost every stuck bolt or screw has come out with just the use of the drill bit.
 
Reverse drill bits, best thing 👍
(as long as you don’t break it!)
Imagine a Castle esque scene, “Ay Steve, can you move the Camira? I need to get the Torana out to get to the Commodore.” It could go something like "Ay Steve can you help me to get the broken drill out from where I broke the easy out, trying to get the broken Allen key out, so I can change my fork seal " :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
 
Been there, got the t-shirt trying to remove the middle, recessed Allen bolt in a 650 Formula top yoke.
I also had to drill out the stupid sleeved nut on a 650 Sport that had seized onto the front wheel spindle. 😕
 
Imagine a Castle esque scene, “Ay Steve, can you move the Camira? I need to get the Torana out to get to the Commodore.” It could go something like "Ay Steve can you help me to get the broken drill out from where I broke the easy out, trying to get the broken Allen key out, so I can change my fork seal " :ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO::ROFLMAO:
castle.jpg
 
Done this before on my Ceriani forks and had to spark erode a larger hexagonal hole using brass bar so I can fit a larger hex wrench. See my setup in this thread when I was removing a reamed brake disc bolt


Attached is a photo of the Ceriani fork bolt after removal. The hex hole was a bit off centre as it was deep down in the fork leg and difficult to get trued.

I have also used a solid carbide drill to remove a sheared hex key wrench end inside a small gub screw. Drills straight through the hardened key end easily.

I have now ground off all the ball ends on my hex wrenches. They are common on long reach ones, but a damn nuisance.

Don't shove your ball ends in places they don't belong.
 

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I have now ground off all the ball ends on my hex wrenches. They are common on long reach ones, but a damn nuisance.

Don't shove your ball ends in places they don't belong.
Handy items in my toolbox. I always loosen or tighten with a straight hex and the ball end for the long winding part in places with poor access. The tool-van man in Brisbane warned me about it.
 
Never had ball end Allen tools.
Seems a recipe for trouble.

For the fork end Allen bolt, I've cut a long Allen key leaving just the shank and I use a socket on that.

Paul
 
Nothing wrong with ball-end hex keys, very useful and quick, and like most tools they don’t break unless misused.

(I hope that didn’t sound too pompous… I’ve got a couple of keys in my toolbox with the ball-ends broken off 😉)
 
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