Ignitech backfire

A BIG thanks to Rob and those who said check the trigger rotor (impulse cam 21602103 15) it fell off in my hand once I got the flywheel off. Popped it back on with a bit of blue Locktite 242 on the grub screw. There was an awful lot loose on this bike which only reflects on its previous maintainance.
It runs now but sounds a bit lumpy. Might need a good run to clean the plugs etc. I marked the back plate so was sure I replaced it from where it came. It’s a Bank holiday in the UK and I have a moany neighbour so unless I spot her going out I will leave that till Tuesday.
Hunting this issue down has cost me a battery, set of plugs, a RR and the Ignitech and coils. All for a spot of maintainance. The bike has been shaken to bits.
After fitting the Ignitech I find the handlebar kill switch when OFF won’t let the engine start and lets it run in ON. But the engine won’t stop when then switched OFF if running. I’ll study the wiring diagram.

Robin
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The Run/Stop also stops the starter motor from engaging via the start relay, you/previous owner have bypassed the 12V feed to the ignition, from this switch, even when you set the Run/Stop switch to off your ignition is powered from elsewhere. Clear why. The Orange wire near the coils is the wire you need to locate and use. HTH j

*** Clever Rob, he is many the time on the money....
 
I believe it is the red from the Run/Stop relay that needs to feed the Ignitech so that when the switch is off power to the ignition is interrupted. The orange wire is the feed to the single coil.
 
OEM ND coils had the three orange wires local to those coils, please yourself, there is no red wire from the run stop switch on the oem factory wiring. The coils +12V is common to the later BTZ ignition modules. If yours was a HKZ then the only red wire is from the stator exciter coil. There were three versions of ignition disable for the HKZ production period, all different. HTH j
 
iis_iis said:
OEM ND coils had the three orange wires local to those coils, please yourself, there is no red wire from the run stop switch on the oem factory wiring. The coils +12V is common to the later BTZ ignition modules. If yours was a HKZ then the only red wire is from the stator exciter coil. There were three versions of ignition disable for the HKZ production period, all different. HTH j
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You are muddying the water by believing I have the stock ignition or a Ignitech supplied by Red. Mine which I fitted has different wiring to what you are on about. Which I bought from the factory in Czech - their wires for the coil are orange/red for the single coil and white/red for the twin coil as I stated in my first post. The ignitech red wire is the wire they supply to provide power to the ignition unit. At no point have I mentioned the colour of the wires connected to the Run/Stop in the switch.
There is a servo which is run by the Run/Stop and that has a blue, a black and two reds. If you check the wiring diagram for a ‘76 3C it is the output red I intend to take to the ignition box which will cut it off when the switch is thrown.. Item 32 on the factory wiring diagram.

You have a nice day.
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You mention a servo run by the kill switch (RUN/STOP) switch. I'm not sure what that's about. Are you referring to the old stop relay?

The kill switch on the right handlebar was originally wired to the stop relay, via a blue wire. That stop relay is now redundant because you have an Ignitech system. In order to sort it so the engine stops when you turn the kill switch to OFF, you need to disconnect that blue wire from the stop relay and use it to power the ignition system, either directly or via a normal 12V automotive relay. Remove the stop relay and all of its wiring from the bike. Leaving redundant electrical systems in place only causes confusion for the next bloke who looks at it.

If you still have the CDI exciter coil in the alternator, then you'd be better off doing as Rob suggested earlier in this thread and get rid of that alternator coil and the adjacent bucking regulator coil. Replace those two coils with one charging coil (available from the usual Laverda parts suppliers) to create a 2-phase alternator and replace the old rectifier with a regulator rectifier. Otherwise your alternator output will be too anemic to maintain power to the bike's electrical systems (which now includes the Ignitech and coils), especially if you ride with the headlight on. If that's already been done, great.
 
Dellortoman said:
You mention a servo run by the kill switch (RUN/STOP) switch. I'm not sure what that's about. Are you referring to the old stop relay?

The kill switch on the right handlebar was originally wired to the stop relay, via a blue wire. That stop relay is now redundant because you have an Ignitech system. In order to sort it so the engine stops when you turn the kill switch to OFF, you need to disconnect that blue wire from the stop relay and use it to power the ignition system, either directly or via a normal 12V automotive relay. Remove the stop relay and all of its wiring from the bike. Leaving redundant electrical systems in place only causes confusion for the next bloke who looks at it.

If you still have the CDI exciter coil in the alternator, then you'd be better off doing as Rob suggested earlier in this thread and get rid of that alternator coil and the adjacent bucking regulator coil. Replace those two coils with one charging coil (available from the usual Laverda parts suppliers) to create a 2-phase alternator and replace the old rectifier with a regulator rectifier. Otherwise your alternator output will be too anemic to maintain power to the bike's electrical systems (which now includes the Ignitech and coils), especially if you ride with the headlight on. If that's already been done, great.
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Thank you for your reply, it makes sense. I will investigate the blue wire.
Robin
 
Dellortoman said:
You mention a servo run by the kill switch (RUN/STOP) switch. I'm not sure what that's about. Are you referring to the old stop relay?

The kill switch on the right handlebar was originally wired to the stop relay, via a blue wire. That stop relay is now redundant because you have an Ignitech system. In order to sort it so the engine stops when you turn the kill switch to OFF, you need to disconnect that blue wire from the stop relay and use it to power the ignition system, either directly or via a normal 12V automotive relay.
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Dellortoman, I tried your suggestion of running the Ignitech box from the Blue wire but there is not enough OOMPH via the blue wire to make it fire. The Ignitech instructions say to connect to the battery direct. It may be possible to interrupt the positive feed via a relay (I called them servos) linked to the Run/Off switch. I’ll get it sorted.
Robin
 
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