Mirage Oil Leak

M

Mirage80

New member
Location
Surrey
Just purchased my Mirage, I have found a small amount of oil gathering in the space under the Carbs. I cleaned it away once after inspecting and cleaning the dipstick and left the bike overnight without starting it. The oil has returned. There is no noticeable oil dripping on the floor.
Any suggestions/ideas as to what is going on please?
 
Is your breather pipe routed into your air box?
If so could the engine be blowing out oil via breather pipe which is gathering in the filter box and then over time the oil is finding its way out of the box?!
 
under the starter motor (very easy to remove no dramas other than the need for a hexagon driver and and a long extension (read allen key), you wll find a drain hole and a wiring entry, [probably this is blocked with cack and its very likely caused by oil spillage when topping up or changing same, as you say it re-appeared overnight, without starting the engine, this is where I would look first, disconect the cable from starter relay to starter (but dont even put the key in the ignition switch as if the sarter button is hit while its on, there will be sparks and maybe flames) then undo the two bolts, one hex and one as stated above (if still original) and the motor literally pops out, a new gasket is not usually required, unles some idiot has used gasket cement of any kind, a light smear of grease on both side of it will (In future) make it a doddle to remove and you can reuse the gasket!, but if it is cememted.........

if you need a new gasket you can buy one from Phil Todd and he will (usually) post it rapidomont, if that is an Italian word. I have them in stock and am at Knockholt, Kent which might not be very far from you, and usually visit the Hutsman at Eridge on Wed eves.
CLEM
 
Cam chain tensioner or base gasket.?
Have you bought a bike that hasn't been run regularly, in which case the gaskets could have dried up, or been leaking before but camouflaged by the big clean up before the sale.

Paul
 
CLEMTOG said:
under the starter motor (very easy to remove no dramas other than the need for a hexagon driver and and a long extension (read allen key), you wll find a drain hole and a wiring entry, [probably this is blocked with cack and its very likely caused by oil spillage when topping up or changing same, as you say it re-appeared overnight, without starting the engine, this is where I would look first, disconect the cable from starter relay to starter (but dont even put the key in the ignition switch as if the sarter button is hit while its on, there will be sparks and maybe flames) then undo the two bolts, one hex and one as stated above (if still original) and the motor literally pops out, a new gasket is not usually required, unles some idiot has used gasket cement of any kind, a light smear of grease on both side of it will (In future) make it a doddle to remove and you can reuse the gasket!, but if it is cememted.........

if you need a new gasket you can buy one from Phil Todd and he will (usually) post it rapidomont, if that is an Italian word. I have them in stock and am at Knockholt, Kent which might not be very far from you, and usually visit the Hutsman at Eridge on Wed eves.
CLEM
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Many thanks for your help. I’ll investigate.
 
Paul Marx said:
the gaskets could have dried up
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Is that really a thing? I think I may have heard that being said before, but I don't think I've ever heard of it happening in the real world. How did they get wet to start with? They're dry when you first buy and install them. Nobody soaks them in anything before installation. Except maybe just a wipe of oil.
 
Hi Mirage80. If oil keeps leaking without starting ...As per previous comments, remove starter motor and check small drain hole underneath is clear and clean...Clean around cam tensioner flange, under head area and dry very well with tissue paper/paper wipes. Lighly dust with baby powder to find leak (not near bell moths/carby inlets - protect them with plastic bags/elastic bands, etc ...Oil leak area will reveal itself.
 
Dellortoman said:
Is that really a thing? I think I may have heard that being said before, but I don't think I've ever heard of it happening in the real world. How did they get wet to start with? They're dry when you first buy and install them. Nobody soaks them in anything before installation. Except maybe just a wipe of oil.
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I always coat my gaskets in grease.
Paul
 
Ooh, a gasket discussion ...

When I was a teenager I cut a timing cover gasket for my old Vauxhall car out of a cornflakes box. It didn't work. Pissed oil like a bastard so I went and bought a proper gasket. Not that it made the engine oil-tight because the seal on the crankshaft behind the fan belt pulley was just a piece of oily felt.

Later on, an old bloke told me I should have soaked the cornflakes box gasket in watered down PVA glue to seal the pores in the cardboard, then let it dry before installing it. I never did try that so I can't testify as to its effectiveness.
 
I have used corn flake card board box stuff for gaskets many times, only ever had a problem when the size meant that you had to open out the box flat and one or more of the corner creases was on that gasket, they are too thin for Laverda use however, I have always lightly greased gaskets before fitting, the dealers dont like it, especially the Laverda ones, as the gaskets can be reused a lot. and the warmed grease runs out a bit at first, which paying customers would not like
CLEM
 
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FWIW, how much actual engine/gearbox oil is in the motor? Overfilling is as much a problem ( seals in peril ) as underfill. Dave B has the proven technique of locating difficult to see point of origin oil leaks. Is there also oil under the alternator cover ie adjacent to the open vent section. If so you may have more than one source of unwanted oil migration. A thought, of some or no value. j
 
You do worry me at times Cam, more than a worry, grin. As i type, on the table, weldors chalk... solid talcum stick... yes i know, riveting....j.
 
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