Mirage Oil Leak

Mirage80 said:
Ok sorry to revisit this but I think I’ve located this oil leak.
I now think the head gasket may be leaking slightly. I gave it a test run and got it nice and hot. Got home and we’re smoking; literally!
Should I start by simply retorqueing the head bolts or maybe take a different approach under your advisement?
Thanks for any response.
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Head bolts are certainly easy to do with no need to order and wait for parts. Why not, as long as you accept that it has a better than average chance of not helping, then again, it won’t do any harm either.
 
Mmmmm head gaskets dont usually "leak" oil, not impossible of course. Oil pump is high flow low pressure on the triples. As indicated by the clever on this site, be looking closely at the cam cover rubber gasket integrity, these are variable in supplier construct and do fail ( mostly compression set ie hardened ). Like a leak in a roof, the obvious may not be obvious, oil will path to least resistance, talc powder test would be a good place to be. Also confirming head to crank case tension another easy to check for clarity. BTW its the short studs in the head most vulnerable to stripping of thread, ie pulling. HTH j.

*** i use the French factory Laverda torque values, 18ft/lbs for the short studs ( only engage on the head can blocks ) 22-24lbs/ft for the crank case studs. Test your torque wrench with known weight and measured length in a vice, there are some wrenches with incorrect indications of actual torque applied. Not crucial when a wrench is close to indicated settings, however, more so all the studs have same/similar actual applied torque over wrench accuracy, if that makes sense
 
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Alzero said:
Head bolts are certainly easy to do with no need to order and wait for parts. Why not, as long as you accept that it has a better than average chance of not helping, then again, it won’t do any harm either.
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iis_iis said:
Mmmmm head gaskets dont usually "leak" oil, not impossible of course. Oil pump is high flow low pressure on the triples. As indicated by the clever on this site, be looking closely at the cam cover rubber gasket integrity, these are variable in supplier construct and do fail ( mostly compression set ie hardened ). Like a leak in a roof, the obvious may not be obvious, oil will path to least resistance, talc powder test would be a good place to be. Also confirming head to crank case tension another easy to check for clarity. BTW its the short studs in the head most vulnerable to stripping of thread, ie pulling. HTH j.

*** i use the French factory Laverda torque values, 18ft/lbs for the short studs ( only engage on the head can blocks ) 22-24lbs/ft for the crank case studs. Test your torque wrench with known weight and measured length in a vice, there are some wrenches with incorrect indications of actual torque applied. Not crucial when a wrench is close to indicated settings, however, more so all the studs have same/similar actual applied torque over wrench accuracy, if that makes sense
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Thanks points taken, surprisingly low torque settings but I’m still thinking it’s one gasket or another.
 
Mirage80 said:
I may have located it but can’t explain- there’s a drip from the carb float bowl ! Weird.
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I was going to ask that, my triumph Bonnie leaves a residue behind the cylinders after tickling the carbs and it looks exactly like a small smear of oil (before I get any funny comments yes it is an oil tight engine and yes it has oil in it 😂).
 
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