Missing bolt

arancia said:
The fuel tank retaining rubber strap should pull the tank forwards - look for two pins under the frame tubes under the tank for the ends of the strap - else the tank may slide back off the front mounting bobbins. The two spikes that you have it around now were to locate the front of the original seat.
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We have remounted the front supports. Ground loose and re-welded them rotated about 45degrees downwards facing so that the tank sits properly on them and isn't always trying to slide back into the front of the seat, requiring the strong rubber strap.
 
Exmoor beast said:
Ignition switch or battery isolator under the seat?? I’m intrigued by the handlebar switch next to the throttle as well- rear shocks are arse about face but doesn’t make a lot of difference. Fuel off every time as Marxy pointed out, if it floods and you hit the starter it’s not going to be pretty.
Love the colour!
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Worse, if there's a leaking float needle, you can get bonfire night anytime.
Paul
 
panhead said:
Any suggestions for an alternative place for the ignition switch?
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On bikes with no convenient location by the handlebar or headlight, I've seen the switch placed in a hole in the plate that forms the front face of the airbox so that it's easily reached while sitting on the seat. In your photo, just behind and below where that fuel filter is hanging.
 
Exmoor beast said:
Taps are handed- swap them over and you have forward/off, down /on, backwards/reserve. As long as you know which is off is doesn’t matter.
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Only problem there is that the fuel outlet and line will be facing fwd! It's very odd that rearward os off - they look like original Orlandis. Is it possible that the innards have been swapped around to reverse the function? From my experience that ain't the case.
 
There have been numerous versions of taps that can mount to our fuel tanks. I once got some rear facing ones that the left one had reserve/off opposite to the norm, maybe it was intended as a RH tap for a Ducati. I still use it, I just remember that "right is right" when needing reserve, so left being wrong I turn it forward, as it is never easy finding the RH tap when the engine is running our of fuel.
 
IIRC, when servicing the taps, it's important to do them one at a time. I think the rotating part, if transposed, will reverse the orientation of lever positions. It's relatively easy to try swapping them, just make sure you drain the tank first.Fuel taps 02.JPGFuel taps 10.JPG
 
My guess is no, on early triples they have flat 25mm wide x 3mm thick blades on the front of the frame instead of the pointy rods you should have and vertical flat blades on both sides of the seat, with both a hole and an open slot that bolts to a couple of plates on the rear of the frame. So you stick those either blades or pointy rods against the seat base and push forward and bolt it on at the rear. Later bikes had hinged seats. Yours looks pretty neat so I would be maybe trying to fit a latch. The first style thing I would do is to piss off that pillion seat strap and the rusty bolts holding it on and add some rust converter to the rusty bits in the seat base. It might not be original but the bike looks great to me.
 
Otherwise original seats come up from time to time for sale. Those are original front seat tangs on your frame that you have sat the tank retaining rubber over.
 
panhead said:
Will do, good point.



Ignition switch. Not ideal location, the seat is not locked. Furthermore the battery is a very tight fit.
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Use a smaller battery. Modern batteries do away with those huge original 32 AH batteries. I suspect that Laverda used those to avoid being called names for not fitting a kickstart. 18 to 20 AH AGM battery is fine, leaves space for a sandwich, some beer or whatever.
Paul
 
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