Schurminater
Hero member
- Location
- Surrey Hills
But thats a Green station Hamish!!........
MotoGadget
- Thread starter Paul LeClair
- Start date
thanks Paul, just bought a mo.ButtonHi Red
have a look a the Mo Button, you hide it inside a handle bar. Takes all the switching functions from starter button, headlight, horn, turn signals, and brake light activation, and results in only one tiny 22 gauge data wire for the switching functions from the front of the bike to the M Unit.
mo.button
Innovative connection system: Minimizes wiring of handlebar fittings, compatible with mo.unit series. ► Optimize cables nowwww.motogadget.com
they certainly have different names for their products
Alzero
Hero member
- Location
- DaNang Vietnam
I’d prefer if a cool looking build wasn’t half obscured with greenery. If it’s a featured bike, perhaps show the features? And yes, I do prefer the second photo.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
hooksey
Hero member
- Location
- Vic , Australia
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
chrissoz
Senior member
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
I have done the Motogaget thing on my 750SF1 - original wiring was hacked about and I never liked all the connectors being squashed under the tank. Had to run some extra relays to get the headlights working since the ignition switch connects them back to +ve not GND. I did not go M-button but used black cat5 to run it all back to the unit. The thing I really struggled with was the Bluetooth connection - it would work intermittently and never figured out why - I'm an IT specialist and it totally defeated me (and burnt a lot of my time).
Bluetooth?
Does the bike stop if the satellite breaks down?
Please stop adding extra sources of potential trouble on what is a simple machine.
Paul
Bluetooth has nothing to do with a satellite, just works device to device
I know, trying to make a point about complicating things whereas it should be a matter of simplifying.
Bluetooth and relays and M gadgets for a thing that only needs a few wires.
Paul
the whole point of the Motogadget kit is to reduce the wiring to a few wires
and when you are building a custom bike as I am that is a huge advantage
and I am not a fan of points
chrissoz
Senior member
- Location
- Sydney, Australia
In this case Bluetooth is mainly useful for configuration - not required outside of this - although useful for things like checking battery voltage.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Wildwood Rd, very straight - had been rolling at 160+ - my birthday last year - battery completely dead, bike stranded, waiting for the towie! I've still got the old rego label inside the fairing screen! Gotta look into where the newie is.That rd looks to straight for the sfq.
Rego sticker lost and found
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Paul, relays are a common way to remove problems due to excessive current in switches ... there are MANY tales on here of ignition switches causing intermittent loss of electrical contact, simply because ALL the bike's 12V power supply goes through it.
Mine have had broken solder on SF2 and 500. The Bosch switch in the headlight has other problems. If far from home, just twist a couple of wires together, that'll get you home, or even better, use a safety pin through the two wires. Looks less like you've stolen it.
Relays are a common way of having problems with relays. Keep it simple.
Paul
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
I had the wiring of my Jota completely re-done by Michael Gawlik (R.I.P) from then OCT in 2000. He incorporated a box that does similar things like the M-Unit and has a central plug to connect everything. It works ever since. I have had only two failiors, one was the built-in blinker relais (simply took a spare one, took the according cable off the box and put the new relais into the loom), the other was: the plug unplugged itself... Easy to recognize, as nothing works then anymore. Fixed it with a little bit of Silikon as a glue at the side of the plug, never failed ever since.
The bike has done only 35.000km in 25 years or so with that installation, but has seen all kind of weather, including snow and ice, heavy rain and temperatures up to 50°C in the sun. it worked faultlessly except for the above two things. Most reliable circuit of any Laverda I came accross.
I get your point, Paul, about not complicating things etc., and yes, a 750 Loom is even easier to trace faults and fix them. However, if you remove the potential points that need fixing, that is actually the best thing to do from my point of view... The main points for poor working electrics is simply age and service. Age as contacts corrode over time and built resistance, service for things that need adjustment or plugs that need to be pulled once in a while to make sure contact surfaces are clean again etc. The only point on not having to work on old electrics is to replace it with something new that does not need your attention.
And in addition, you can trace a fault with the M-Unit via your smartphone... It shows you exactly which circuit causes trouble etc. It has self-healing fuses, which do not require you to take some with you or get stranded on the road etc. etc.
I understand though, that youfeel more comfortable with the traditional technology. Worked for decades, easy to fix, I get that. I just don't want to fix things on the road side...
The bike has done only 35.000km in 25 years or so with that installation, but has seen all kind of weather, including snow and ice, heavy rain and temperatures up to 50°C in the sun. it worked faultlessly except for the above two things. Most reliable circuit of any Laverda I came accross.
I get your point, Paul, about not complicating things etc., and yes, a 750 Loom is even easier to trace faults and fix them. However, if you remove the potential points that need fixing, that is actually the best thing to do from my point of view... The main points for poor working electrics is simply age and service. Age as contacts corrode over time and built resistance, service for things that need adjustment or plugs that need to be pulled once in a while to make sure contact surfaces are clean again etc. The only point on not having to work on old electrics is to replace it with something new that does not need your attention.
And in addition, you can trace a fault with the M-Unit via your smartphone... It shows you exactly which circuit causes trouble etc. It has self-healing fuses, which do not require you to take some with you or get stranded on the road etc. etc.
I understand though, that youfeel more comfortable with the traditional technology. Worked for decades, easy to fix, I get that. I just don't want to fix things on the road side...
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Herman
New member
- Location
- The Netherlands
Hi Paul,
Sounds like a great project! My 1200TS is undergoing a big makeover into an Endurance style.I’m using the Motogadget M.unit blue as well. Just like your project it will have headlights in front of the fairing, so no chance to hide the connectors in there.
I placed the M.unit on the side of the frame between the fuel tank. Just enough clearance for the wires to avoid touching the tank. I made brackets for the holders of the Deutsch connectors. These six are all going to the from of the bike. Each bundle of wires is for 1 clip-on, dashboard, blinkers, headlights and ignition. This is for easy removal without cutting things.
The seat will have 1 separate connection as well for easy removal. But still measuring things and trying to hide all cables as much as possible.
I’m not using a Mo button, I keep it a little more simple with the Motoscope mini, blinkers and M.unit. Only need to figure out the speed sensor via the ‘AUX2 input’ to monitor the speed on the app. But looks like just check for the right setting and thats all.
Herman
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Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Very interesting, Hermann! I had thought about putting it there but shied off, fearing, it get's to much heat there. No?
Herman
New member
- Location
- The Netherlands
I thought about that, but there will be enough space and airflow under the tank. Even in the summer time I never felt an enormous amount of hot air from the engine at a stop. If, but don’t think needed, I have a solution for that. A small duct/funnel can direct cool air. I have seen many builds with the electrical equipment above the engine and carburetor.
Herman
finally, we have posts back on subject as opposed to green discussions