Oil question Castrol GTX 20W 50 vs Castrol Grand Prix 20W 50

Many years ago I had the dogs on the top gear (5th) fail. I was told then that in all probability it was due to the fact that I was using GTX.
I changed immediately, after striping and replacing 5th gear, to an oil recommended by Slaters and have never had any trouble since.
 
HDEO 15w40 Oil for our Breganzies - YES!

DURON (Less the E Factor) probably the best but Mobil Delvac and ACDelco are OK.

I Pointing out Oils available in Canada.
 
RCGBOB44 said:
Many years ago I had the dogs on the top gear (5th) fail. I was told then that in all probability it was due to the fact that I was using GTX.
I changed immediately, after striping and replacing 5th gear, to an oil recommended by Slaters and have never had any trouble since.
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Just out of interest, who told you that? Seems an odd sort of failure to be attributed to poor lubrication.

 
On the RGS manual, it is said that the oil capacity is 3.5 litres. On the dipstick there is actually four different oil level indicator marks, and it is said on the manual that the second mark from the top is maximum and the second mark from bottom is minimum. I have always filled my SFC on the second line from top that is exactly 3 litres. Oil level seems to vary half litres between every two marks, so the oil volume on the marks from bottom to top are 2, 2.5, 3 and 3.5 litres. A littlebit confusing but I have measured this one precisely enough I think.
 
Talking about diffrerent oil brands. I have used almost only Silkolene brand oils nowadays. For Laverda four stoke engines I have used Super 4 (mineral), Comp 4 (ester based) or Pro 4 (full ester) from cheapest to best. This is not cheap one. I think this is the best one we have tried on our household after building engines for last fifty ears and seen what happened inside the engine after using different oils. Very stable viscosity, very high pressure duration, very good protection against wearing, keeps engine clean (warning, insidely very dirty engines need engine cleaning first, this will flush every sticked dirt back to oil circulation), low friction, always completely clean inlet runners and valves, no breathing, very low or no oil consumption even at very worn out engines, compatible to old engines (issues like zinc, clutch, gaskets etc.). At least on 1980's many oil labs used this oil for reference. Have anyone else tried?

I think that it is better to speak about base oil groups than which oil is mineral, synthetic, semisynthetic etc. The meaning of those words can vary by manufacturer, or even by country because of different laws. Many oil manufacturers want to get the best price of their oil while manufacturing it by cheapest process possible.
http://www.machinerylubrication.com/Read/29113/base-oil-groups
 
It's about 21-22 litres full to the brim... :D

I never fill in more than 3 litres, gives a little more room for crankcase pressure in case something stupid happens.

piet
 
I think we are all in agreement that it shouldnt be CASTROL anything....
As for the viscosity well that would depend on who you ask and where you are.
Use 20w60 here in gods country winter or summer...
 
Interesting.... I've used either Penrite or Valvoline in the bikes for decades and Castrol in the Landcruiser which now has 320,000+ks on it and is still running like new. When I tried a synthetic oil in the Bmtroublyou and it fell through like the engine like it was a sieve. Switched back to dino oil and it was fine!
 
Used Mobil Delvac (a 'diesel' oil, think it was straight 40w but viscosity rating was eq or better than most 20/50s) for years. Have since used Mobil 1.

Red, any reason why NO synth oil should go in? Wet clutch???? My motor looked sweet inside after years on Mobil 1 ... once it had been run in. Particulcarly good in the top end/cam/rocker dep't.

GTX was absolutely canned in the Oz m/cycle industry back in the 70s. Our Skoda (VW) diesel uses the super low-ash stuff, but interestingly is good for 20,000+km. Surely there must be something good about modern oils? Changing Laverda oil every 1500km seems a bit over the top?? And at prices like $115 for 5 litres??? :o :o :o
 
        "And at prices like $115 for 5 litres??? :o :o :o"
Hi Q, As I said previously, been using the HPR10Gas semi syn. I pay about $45 5 litres. Pretty much get 2 changes out of that so 1500km changes works out pretty cheap. Once I use up the current supply of HPR10Gas I have I'm going back to HPR30gas, a mineral oil and slightly cheaper.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Used Mobil Delvac (a 'diesel' oil, think it was straight 40w but viscosity rating was eq or better than most 20/50s) for years. Have since used Mobil 1.

Red, any reason why NO synth oil should go in? Wet clutch???? My motor looked sweet inside after years on Mobil 1 ... once it had been run in. Particulcarly good in the top end/cam/rocker dep't.

GTX was absolutely canned in the Oz m/cycle industry back in the 70s. Our Skoda (VW) diesel uses the super low-ash stuff, but interestingly is good for 20,000+km. Surely there must be something good about modern oils? Changing Laverda oil every 1500km seems a bit over the top?? And at prices like $115 for 5 litres??? :o :o :o
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Red stipulates mineral oil for the first 1000 K's as synthetic from the get go will not allow the engine to bed in correctly so you will never seat the rings correctly.

GTX is crap pure and simple even today stay away from Castrol full stop.

Your Skoda would be lucky to make 20K with the oil in it me thinks ( VW reckon that 1 litre per 1,000k's use is within spec's and they aint got a 25 liter sump )  most VW diesels use oil like there is no tomorrow. Hence the low ash aint for the engine it is for the DPF to help stop it clogging up prematurely...

Anyway it has an oil filter, different clearances internally and if the technical boys at VW had their way ( and they dont and hate the thought of their engines doing that many K's ) and not the marketing department trust me the service intervals would be less. Remember use an oil that aint VW spec'd and kiss your warranty goodbye..................( you shouldnt have got me started about VW crap diesels, sorry no offence just that VW and quality in the one sentence seriously, sell the Skoda before it starts to cost you a bomb trust me it will ) Visit any VW, Audi, Skoda dealer and see how vehicles are sittin in the workshop getting new engines...

As of Lav's most are ridden short distances every now and again so the acids build up in the oil, plus is a carb engine so you get not a spot on mixture at all times and you get fuel blowby which also affects.... oh and no oil filter.. oh and roller crank bearings...

If you only use it on good long distance runs so it gets to operating temperature and stays there for a while ( like a good few hours at a time ) then you can run higher intervals but dont forget no filter...

I use Fuch's oil and it aint costing me $100 for 5 liters..it is high zinc good ol mineral oil and is designed specifically for flat tappet engines...

been there and done that with Synthetic crap in Laverda's,  no longer interested as the engine was never designed for it... hi zinc content and less polymer stretch in the oil is much much important and way better for the lobes etc on our engines.

Up to you but for me good quality oil changed regularly is the cheap insurance.
(note I do say good quality so that exludes Castrol )

Diesel oil aint hi zinc it does have a lot of detergent as is designed for Diesel usage.
 
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