Paul LeClair's new project (Non Laverda)

Paul LeClair said:
well, in the back of my mind somewhere is the memory of Lance Weil getting killed in his workshop by a lathe......

a small Chinese lathe is not going to do the kind of stuff I am sending out to get made, and a serious lathe is well beyond my experience or current skill set. What I have been intending to do for a couple of years now is to sign up for and take an introductory machining course at the local technical college. I would really like to learn proper basic setup and operation of both a lathe and a milling machine. Once I am confident in both basic skills and particularly operating safety, then I may well go shopping...... I have been following one of the machinist forums the past couple of years, soaking up some information, in very rudimentary preparation  ;)

Paul LeClair
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Paul,

Much the same skills required for small or large lathes, working principles are the same.  Just the max. size of the workpieces differ.

You'd be rather surprised at what a "small" chinese lathe is capable of.  I bought one almost 20 years ago.  1000mm between centres, 170mm swing, plus detachable bed for about a total 240mm swing, and it still delivers surprising accuracy.  It has served me well and more than earned its keep, and will hopefully continue to do so for a long time to come.  I chose this particular model mainly because it turned up at the right time for the right price, but as workshop space is limited, I couldn't have chosen anything larger anyway.

Unless you intend turning your attention to low-volume mass-production, or want it to stay in the family for the next 6 generations, one of these lathes will be more than enough for the odd job needed in restoring old bikes.  Automatic feed, thread-cutting, cooling/lube system and spindle brake are standard features these days, a digital read-out simplifies things for a beginner no end!  700-800mm between centres is usually large enough, 38-40mm spindle bore ro rake fork stanchions and a decent swing for larger diametre stuff are things to look out for.  Look for one from a reputed machine tool vendor that can offer a bit of after-sales back-up in case parts may be needed (only thing I've needed is oil for the periodic oil change...).

I'm currently looking for a small to mid-size mill, seem to have dropped in price lately. :D

piet
 
Hi Piet, if you come to a conclusion which one to buy, let me know, please. My son has skills now due to his apprenticeship as a mechanic and I need to get some spacers made that would just hold you off of more important things. Or if you want to get rid of your small old one, let me know...  ;)
 
chrisk said:
Looking good Paul, but those alloy peg mounts look pox against that pretty swinger.
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yeah, I know. They are used stock replacements I picked up recently. They are better than what came with the bike, which featured a whole bunch of crookedly and unevenly drilled holes. I am presently not sure what to do, even painting them black might be an improvement until I can make something, but that is fairly low on the priority list, I really want to get the bike running, and running well, before I worry too much about cosmetics.

I spent a couple of hours today slightly reconfiguring the turbo exhaust piping to conform with the change I made in the turbo's position, and while I had the metal saw and flux core wire feed welder out I put in an O2 sensor bung just after the waste gate. Good thing I have a new slim line  grinder, complete with safety guard and am not afraid to use it, I guess I am way out of practice welding, looked like a drunken monkey did the welding, but after grinding everything into submission it sort of looks OK....... ::) ::) ::)
 
Hi Paul,
I have fitted a "massive" alloy swing arm to my Jota, it would appear larger in section than the one you have
fitted to the CBX. It is a JMC deepbrace, they made it for me back in the early nineties, & it's been in the bike
since then. It's main advantages seem to be huge increase in stiffness/rigidity, big weight saving over the
original swing arm-can't actually believe how heavy the original one is- & in my opinion it looks as cool as.
Disadvantage is that with the standard Laverda frame/forks/chassis, you REALLY need to run a steering damper, you can't beleive how much rigidity is introduced with the JMC fitted & spirited riding on less than perfect surfaces will have the bike in all kinds of wallows & knots, essentially it feels like the back is steering the front.
                                                          Regards, Jon.     
 
SimonR501 said:
I think Red has some experience.
Probably best if someone drops by with a Jota to make sure it would fit first.
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Don't confuse Metmachex with JMC..................... ;)

                      Cheers
                              Matt
 
bsab31 said:
Hi Paul,
I have fitted a "massive" alloy swing arm to my Jota, it would appear larger in section than the one you have
fitted to the CBX. It is a JMC deepbrace,
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Jon,
Check the JMC regularly for cracks around the rear brake bracket if it has one.  They ALL crack there sooner or later. :)
 
Hi Breganzane,
When you refer to the rear brake  bracket, do you mean the locating bracket on the swinging arm that holds the front of the rear caliper mounting bracket/slider?
                                                              Thanks,Jon.

 
Dellortoman said:
Paul, having followed the evolution of your workshop, with fancy floor tiles, storage cabinets, and a bloody car lift, you're obviously a man of reasonable financial resources and more than adequate intellectual ability. For Christ's sake spend a few bucks on an entry-level lathe. It'll cost you maybe $1500 but will allow you to do a multitude of tasks that you're now farming out to machine shops. Don't worry about your ability. Using a lathe isn't rocket surgery. Skills will come with a bit of practice as well as advice from your tool supplier and the wonderful resources on this forum. What's holding you back?
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I use a JMC one on my Jota
 
read all the swing arm comments with interest.

Metmachex does not seem to offer a swing arm for any Laverda, at least they do not list Laverda.  http://metmachex.net/swingarm-prices/

JMC - does it even exist any more? Lots of horrible negative comments on the web about rip offs, non delivery, etc., and I did not find any sort of working web site.

For my 79 1200, I have wanted to mount the gold Astralite wheels since I acquired them several years ago. The 4 inch back Astralite does not fit in a stock 1200 swing arm, resulting in me fitting the Astralites to my RGS. I have been keen to fit a wider swing arm to the 79 1200 for some time.

I did investigate JMC and Metmachex a couple of years ago without success. Then Wolfgang turned up what I think was an RGS swing arm that had been modified to fit a 1200 frame, but further modified for a larger swing arm pivot. As I did not want to modify the 79 1200 frame, that has sat at the back of my garage for a few years now, until together with the CBX conversion bits I just had made I also had conversion bushings made to allow me to fit the swing arm I got from Wolfgang to the 79 1200, which will then let me swap the Astralite wheels from the RGS to the 1200, after I get the CBX running.

anyway, if anyone has actual physical possession of an aluminum braced swing arm that could be fitted to my 79 1200, and that would accept a 4 inch rear rim, and that you want to sell, let me know. Or, if you know somewhere I could buy one from.

Paul LeClair
 
bsab31 said:
Hi Breganzane,
When you refer to the rear brake  bracket, do you mean the locating bracket on the swinging arm that holds the front of the rear caliper mounting bracket/slider?
                                                              Thanks,Jon.
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Hi Jon,
Yes, exactly, just keep a close eye on it in that area.  Or even better, convert to an underslung caliper with a torque rod back to the frame if you are able, takes the strain off the swingarm in that area and removes the need for a future repair or failure.  SFC1000 parts might work if you are not able to make something.  The torque rod can be tied back to the lower footpeg lug on the frame if you don't fancy welding something onto the frame.  I made my own swingarm to take my 160 rear tyre and welded a lug onto the lower cross tube under the SA pivot, but I'm a sucker for punishment.
Cheers
SteveB
 
SimonR501 said:
I believe Red had problems with both!
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that is correct, had problems with both brands
Lost a big wad of money on JMC due to paid for but never delivered swingarms, ordered 5, paid for 2 upfront never to be seen or heard from again

then ordered 4 through Metmachex who said that I was lucky as they had a Jota in their shop that they could use to test the fit
well, that Jota must have had a big rear end shunt at some stage as the 4 swingarms that arrived would not fit into a Laverda frame
of course they denied all responsibility telling me they made what I ordered and was now my problem

we used one on Paul's race bike which fitted after we modified the swingarm pivot tube and cut various brackets off the frame, works well and does not have the eccentric axle adjuster which are a right pain in the butt with a centre stand equipped bike
sold another to Peter in NZ for his triple racebike, modified the pivot tube before he took it away
sold a 3rd to Darty for his 750 project bike, also modified, fitted well by all reports
have one Metmachex swingarm left, brand new but undecided if I wish to sell it or not

I also have a spare 2nd hand JMC swingarm for a Laverda triple but with eccentric adjuster

am sort of over custom swingarms now after the above experiences

 
breganzane said:
Jon,
Check the JMC regularly for cracks around the rear brake bracket if it has one.  They ALL crack there sooner or later. :)
Click to expand...

Doesn't exactly inspire confidence.  Huge fucker of a swinger that cracks up under braking torque... ::)

piet
 
Mechanical Rear Sets always diminish the braking control of rear DRUMS - HIC.

As if they weren't bad enough to begin with - But I can still lock mine up ;o)
 
I've got a 180 with rearsets and I can lock the rear wheel. The braking system uses all stock components, but they've been optimised for maximum mechanical advantage. It's still a little bit wooden, but at least it works. I tend to use the back brake a lot, especially in stop-start traffic, so I want one that works.
 
Dellortoman said:
Paul, having followed the evolution of your workshop, with fancy floor tiles, storage cabinets, and a bloody car lift, you're obviously a man of reasonable financial resources and more than adequate intellectual ability. For Christ's sake spend a few bucks on an entry-level lathe. It'll cost you maybe $1500 but will allow you to do a multitude of tasks that you're now farming out to machine shops. Don't worry about your ability. Using a lathe isn't rocket surgery. Skills will come with a bit of practice as well as advice from your tool supplier and the wonderful resources on this forum. What's holding you back?
Click to expand...

Or Brain science  :LOL:
 
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