Rear Shocks

Hi Tippy, at the moment I'm gathering information about a replacement shock cause I think that I'll be needing one in the not too distant future.
The priorities at this stage are,

Fit new pistons and clean up head, gets the bike running again!! then start work on step 2 of the Carbon tank, current tank doesn't work with the mikuni carbs unless I take to it with a large hammer!!
Will replace fork staunchions. Wheels and brakes are sorted [thanks Red]
While the motor is out will probably throw some paint on the frame and replace all the bearings. Other not so important bits that need attension are, seat recovered/reshaped and more carbon body panel.
Looking at the shock, I get the feeling it will either need rebuilding or replacing. Had it rebuilt twice now, 24 year old and hammered for nearly 100,000 km. Looking sad from battery spills in the past and general road grime.

Question for Phil Todd. Was the WP shock I brought from you back in 88 specific built for the Motodd?. I would have thought quoting the numbers on the unit would be enough for a replacement to be built.
Both WP and Ohlins in Oz have said they need the bike to build a shock for it. With the prices they quoted that's not going to happen.

As of last Sunday the Motodd has slipped down one notch on the priorities after hearing a noise from the rear end on the BM, so now the rear end is out and gearbox is in need of a rebuild. My mate is coming down in 2 weeks with the tools and measuring plates to do that so in the mean time I have all the bodywork off and currently primed ready for a new coat of paint. Trouble is, where I live, the nearest suppliers of anything apart from milk is 120 km away so everything takes longer. Running the SFC in the Albany Hillclimb next w/e so will buy paint etc to finish the BM.
Have 3 bikes and the only one currently running isn't taxed for the road!!
 
Oh you poor thing Rob

Just to have a 750 SFC running............. ;)

I agree with you about the joys of living remote, bites sometimes.

Cheers
Jason
 
Rob, if the monoshock you have has been good until now maybe you could send it to a shock builder and he could test and measure it and make a replacement.

I had the front forks done by Maxton and asked themfor a monoshock for the rear but they got cold feet as it was a special. In the end I got a Wilbers. As you have the shock already maybe send it to them (after discussion obviously) and they could make a new one for you. Definitely less than 3000AUD.
Doesn't need to be Maxton, maybe some others would consider doing it.
Just a thought.
 
Rob,
Have you tried SOS Suspension at Penrith? They rebuilt a set of front forks for a TV175 Mondial for a friend of mine which was quite a problem for him. I'm not giving them a plug but it might be worth at least talking to them. 02 4721 5277  0412 245 176  I hope those numbers are current.
Ian
 
Well, just looking at my records, last time I had the WP rebuilt was Nv 04 and 14000 kays. The bottom bush is shot so that'll need replacing and I won't know if the shock is leaking until I take it for a ride again.
I will probably send it off to one of the WP specialist for another service and in the mean time start looking for a replacement. Received an email from another MK3 owner regarding an Ohlins shock he had built and the price is in the ball park for what you'd expect to pay for a Ohlins. This isn't going to happen for sometime soon as the Motor and tank are priorities at this stage.
Ian, SOS was one of the companys I spoke to when I tried to buy a replacement unit 6 years ago. I called all the suspension specialist from Qld to Victoria that did WP and Ohlins and when they ask what bike is it for and you tell them a Motodd framed Laverda they all say the shock will have to be specially made for it. Not very helpful at all. Back in the good old days you brought a set of shocks of the required length and a set of springs that suited the weight. These days it all to complicated. I guess all these suspension specialist companys that have materialized over the years have to make an income somehow. Technology in suspension has improved 10 fold over the years and is worth the expense if racing but for hooning up and down my favorite roads all I need is something that works ok that affordable. When I originally fitted the WP I set the preload  to suit and the rebound at #4 and that's the way it stayed for the next 22 years. I never needed to do a 1 click here or one click there to hold my own against some of the jap rocket ships I would encounter on the Old Road North of Sydney. I've never found fault with the handleing of the Motodd.
Anyway, once I receive the specs for the MK3 Ohlins I'll start talking to to the experts again to see how much they'll want to build it.
Cheers for all your input
Rob
 
Rob,SOS is Shawn, a mate of Wills.Nice bloke.He fitted the 15mm extended top to my Icons and did a revalve,before they were closed to maxed out on the damping,now there on 1 and typically with good suspension you dont notice anything,he does a good job at a reasonable price.He is the go to bloke for oddball stuff
 
I have had great work done by Terry at Shock Treatment but he had a lot of young blokes working for him and sometimes when he is away at race meets.Major problem with suspension work is its hard to get it right 1st time,especially with bikes that have adjustability,clickers.Terry has a test track for dirt bikes and the final step is 5 minutes with his eyeballing and adjusting clickers makes so much difference,the way they are these days,3mm ride hight change by pushing the fork up or down made mine either hold a rut or blow out of a rut
 
Ran into this guy at Wakefiel Park:
http://www.trooperlu.com.au/
Good guy, knows what a Laverda is, does custom suspension work and other stuff for Laverdas among other things.  Among others he's a dealer for Racetech, whose shocks apparently perform very well and can be built to suit, and being from the US should be fairly economical due to their shit dollar at present.
Cheers
Steve B

 
Steve,were you around at Wakefeild when the bloke with the American acsent was taking about the new gaget from Racetech that improves the action of the Emulators,that was Mr Racetech himself,Paul Thede.He does suspendion seminars in OZ a couple of times a year.
 
Yep, trimmed that bit out to stop my incessant waffling.  Was talking to him briefly, seemed like a really top guy.  Not often you see the head of a company like that, a bloke in his 60's apparently, wearing the race suit of a pro A-grader in his 20's, out on track peeling the rubber off the sides of the tyres of a CBR1000 testing out his own products.
Crispin did point out to him that he'd tried to buy Racetech twin shocks for the spaceframe and that he got no response from the company at all either in aus or US.  That put a big frown on Paul F's face and hopefully might help lead to improved availability of historic racing products in the future.

Talk about the emulators was just a matter of trying to tune what was in there.  When going to heavier oil to increase rebound, sometimes the low speed compression ends up too stiff, in which case experiment with drilling another small hole/holes in the emulator valve plate.  Plate is brass so holes can easily be soldered up if you go too far.

Cheers
Steve
 
breganzane said:
Talk about the emulators was just a matter of trying to tune what was in there.  When going to heavier oil to increase rebound, sometimes the low speed compression ends up too stiff, in which case experiment with drilling another small hole/holes in the emulator valve plate.  Plate is brass so holes can easily be soldered up if you go too far.

Cheers
Steve
Click to expand...

I took Mr Thede's advice and went to heavier oil (15W) and drilled an extra hole in the brass plate Steve refers to. Feedback from Blair says the front end is excellent even in the dangerous wet conditions at the MotoGP.

Cheers Crispin
 
Crispin,

I'm running 20wt. How much did you ream out the holes by?

My local mechanic, Brad Wiseman, brought Race Tech emulators back from Daytona years ago after a trip with an Aussie superbike team. He's been telling me to do the same but he can't remember how much they drilled out because it was twenty years ago.

Chris
 
morison said:
Crispin,

I'm running 20wt. How much did you ream out the holes by?

My local mechanic, Brad Wiseman, bought Race Tech emulators back from Daytona years ago after a trip with an Aussie superbike team. He's been telling me to do the same but he can't remember how much they them drilled out because it was twenty years ago.

Chris
Click to expand...

Hey Chris,

there is one small hole in the small brass pressure plate, what I did was drill an extra hole the same size as the existing one.

Cheers Crispin
 
Hey Rob,
When you track someone down to do your shock best tell them that I need one as well.
May make it more worthwhile if they get to do two.

Tchau
Red
 
Hey Red,
I've got a lead and I'm chasing it. Will keep you in mind. Did your frame come with a shock? My original was was a De carbon, not long after having the bike running I use to get some scary wallowing in high speed sweepers. The WP sorted that out.
 
don't believe there is a shock with the frame.
just have Mk3 frame and swingarm, that's it
rest is up to my imagination now  :D

 
XBCoupeJota said:
morison said:
Crispin,
I'm running 20wt. How much did you ream out the holes by?
My local mechanic, Brad Wiseman, bought Race Tech emulators back from Daytona years ago after a trip with an Aussie superbike team. He's been telling me to do the same but he can't remember how much they them drilled out because it was twenty years ago.
Chris
Click to expand...
Hey Chris,

there is one small hole in the small brass pressure plate, what I did was drill an extra hole the same size as the existing one.
Cheers Crispin
Click to expand...

well, I have had the RaceTech Emulators in and out of the front forks on my 79 1200 so many bloody times I can strip a set of Marzocchi forks in the dark, blindfolded, with one hand tied behind my back. standing on my head.....

what I thought was my final solution to the ultra stiff initial compression damping was to settle on nice light 5 weight fork oil... so now you guys are telling me I can go back to 15 weight and still soften up initial compression damping just by drilling an extra tiny hole in the brass pressure plate :o  so the forks are going to be stripped yet again, as I can't fish the damn emulators out with the forks on the bike.... I guess I needed to change the fork oil anyway :-[

anyways, sounds like a good tip, thanks!

Paul LeClair
 
Paul LeClair said:
as I can't fish the damn emulators out with the forks on the bike.... I guess I needed to change the fork oil anyway :-[

anyways, sounds like a good tip, thanks!

Paul LeClair
Click to expand...

Hey Paul,

you need the fork emulator removal tool...


 

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