Thinking of a shim between sprocket carrier face and sprocket mounting face, would need to be around just less than 2mm to clear the rivets. For such a small adjustment not sure if it would be necessary to shim the front sprocket by the same amount. Any feed back welcome.
Rear sprocket
- Thread starter russo011
- Start date
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
It’s been tried to get the chain to clear wider back tyres.
Long story short, it increases the load on the fifth gear/output shaft which is already highly stressed. One of Red’s outrigger bearing cases would solve that.
Long story short, it increases the load on the fifth gear/output shaft which is already highly stressed. One of Red’s outrigger bearing cases would solve that.
cheers - the required shim would not give any issues with tyre clearance - just wonder how deep this hole will be if i carry on digging
The AJS 7R/Matchless G50 split-sprocket set-up meant a (relative) quick gearing change could be made, without the need to remove the rear wheel. A pita on brit bikes at the best of times, not to mention a change of the front sprocket...
See absolutely no merit in this Supersprox set-up. It's not that the stock Lav sprocket were a giant lump of steel, it's just a comparitively narrow ring. Aftermarket items often even have cut-outs to minimise weight. It might make sense in the cases where the sprocket has a very small inside diametre.
Trading weight for excess complication...?
I have been running simple alloy sprockets machined from blanks for quite some time, no fancy hard-cote or anodising. Don't see any more or quicker wear than with steel sprockets. Even converted the GTL to a #520 o-ring to get the benefits of an o-ring chain without chewing up the cases with a #530. Fitted an alloy rear out of convenience, had enough blanks lying around, along with machined fronts.
piet
See absolutely no merit in this Supersprox set-up. It's not that the stock Lav sprocket were a giant lump of steel, it's just a comparitively narrow ring. Aftermarket items often even have cut-outs to minimise weight. It might make sense in the cases where the sprocket has a very small inside diametre.
Trading weight for excess complication...?
I have been running simple alloy sprockets machined from blanks for quite some time, no fancy hard-cote or anodising. Don't see any more or quicker wear than with steel sprockets. Even converted the GTL to a #520 o-ring to get the benefits of an o-ring chain without chewing up the cases with a #530. Fitted an alloy rear out of convenience, had enough blanks lying around, along with machined fronts.
piet
The Sock
Hero member
- Location
- London, England
Sorry, Russ. I explained it badly.cheers - the required shim would not give any issues with tyre clearance - just wonder how deep this hole will be if i carry on digging
Shimming the rear sprocket (away from the tyre centreline) means that, as a consequence you must shim the gearbox sprocket, out from the support bearing, by an identical amount (a practice previously tried by others to allow wider tyres to be fitted).
Unfortunately, this increases the lever arm on the fifth gear/output shaft in its bearing, causing premature bearing failure.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
And the only way/s to do it is either cut and shut weld two pieces of gearbox sprocket together 2mm offset or machine 2mm of the outer inside face of the gearbox sprocket and fit a 2mm spacer. Less contact with the splines on the shaft if you go the latter route. Starting to sound very complicated for a simple sprocket replacement.
I'm encouraged to hear that allot sprox are lasting well - I have a 520 I'm fitting and will use a Scottoiler with it. Going to use a 530 front and grind one side of the outer teeth to 520 width.
The issue I have had with alloy sprockets is it's very hard to see their condition with the chain fitted and the chain guard covering most of the rest of the sproket. I have a particularly powerful 3c, apparently, it's been described as a race motor but I would be more comfortable calling it to Corsa spec and on 2 occasions I have discovered on mid multiday rides severely worn or damaged alloy rear sprockets. That's using a top-quality 530 O ring chain. Once with 10 teeth completely missing and the next time the teeth warn down so much the chain started slipping around making it requiring an immediate slow and steady return the 600ks home. Yes, probably my fault for not checking or missing the signs. So my bike now has a steel rear sprocket with its penalty in unsprung weight, not good but hopefully no sudden surprises in the future. BTW I am not a spreadsheet kind of bloke, so I have no idea how long or how many ks I was getting on those drive lines, I do replace it all when that time comes, front rear and chain. A couple of other points, I run a nylon chain runner type gadget under and near the swingarm pivot that stops the chain dragging on the frame and typically with quality O ring chains I virtually never adjust it for 95% of its life, and it gets an occasional squirt of chain wax to stop surface rust, here come the chain lube comments I bet.
Last edited:
hooksey
Hero member
- Location
- Vic , Australia
I find it hard to believe that your bike would chew out rear sprockets with its engine performance........ something else at play here Vince.
I've always had alloy sprockets on my 750s. I usually do two sprockets to one chain but will be doing three now. Changing sprockets is a pain.
Something wrong with your setup Vince.
The way power is delivered has a lot to do with drive wear. A single will eat sprockets and chains for dinner. Power is secondary.
Paul
Something wrong with your setup Vince.
The way power is delivered has a lot to do with drive wear. A single will eat sprockets and chains for dinner. Power is secondary.
Paul
Perry
Hero member
- Location
- West Dorset UK
I should put your order in soon. They may not be 'ex' for much longer.
helicopterjim
Hero member
- Location
- near Lone Butte, BC, Canada
Probably a liability issue ........ they can't be responsible for some idiot not securing the sprocket properly ....... but a good lawyer can fix that.
Jim
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
That could apply to any part of the bike. I doubt whether manufacturers could be held liable for the actions of idiot owners.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
You're forgetting the Land of Litigation, Cam! The US are major developers and it's now franchised to the rest of the world!
paulincayman
Hero member
- Location
- Cayman Islands
"Intergal with rear brake drum "...same as the earlier Commandos
Well finally got round to sort my Supersprox fitment out.
It was necessary to mill some reliefs in the hub to clear the interface between the chain ring and carrier + to have some spacers made up so that the underside of the sprocket mounting screws did not foul with the centre part of the hub.
Worth it? Can't say time will tell, however, as the adage goes where there is a will there's a way
It was necessary to mill some reliefs in the hub to clear the interface between the chain ring and carrier + to have some spacers made up so that the underside of the sprocket mounting screws did not foul with the centre part of the hub.
Worth it? Can't say time will tell, however, as the adage goes where there is a will there's a way
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piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Looks very tidy. Good job!
CLEMTOG
Hero member
custom made dished front sprockets can be obtained if your back tyre is a bit wider, (My son has just had to do this for his latest uild which is a TZ lookalike using a Delgarda chassis, TZ banana swingarm and benelli wheels) .some of the sidecar boys used them decades ago (grass track, fat knobblies) and a few in road racing but mainly they used a jack shaft to clear the monster rear slicks.
CLEM
CLEM