Rear wheel with rotor brake substitute

Chuck,

Relying on the bolts alone to keep the sprocket centred will not work. Radial run-out must be kept to less than 0.3mm, more will play havoc with chain tension and longevity. Even you do get run-out within such limits, I seriously doubt it will remain so for very long.

Get yourself a sprocket blank and machine that to suit.

piet
I thought that might be the case. I'll use this as a temporary setup to test the other changes and then follow up with a different sprocket.
Alternatively, go with a 520 instead of the 530 and find a 120mm sprocket
 
I've put a steel band in that id / od gap for now.
So with that and 8 bolts I expect it to minimise any runout.
 
If you need to space the sprocket out you could combine it with the spacer with a 1.5mm sleeve for the Lav sprocket. Wonder how they came up with 123mm!! What an odd figure to settle on.

Simple sleeves from 10mm down to 8mm on 4 bolts is piss easy too. But buying a sprocket blank and machining is also easy as.
 
Chuck,

Relying on the bolts alone to keep the sprocket centred will not work. Radial run-out must be kept to less than 0.3mm, more will play havoc with chain tension and longevity. Even you do get run-out within such limits, I seriously doubt it will remain so for very long.

Get yourself a sprocket blank and machine that to suit.

piet
Agree, Piets approach makes perfect sense
 
But buying a sprocket blank and machining is also easy as.
hard part is buying the blank sprocket, steel there are plenty off them, alloy in Aussie, very hard to find
was quoted 6 months delivery for 40 tooth x 530 blanks only 4 weeks ago, we decided to CNC machine our own from 7025-T6 plate and hard anodize the sprockets
is for the GSXR wheel conversions we do
 
Thanks Red, good to know. For now I've fashioned a spacer to fill in that 1.5mm gap between the (123 to 120 dia.) sprocket and cush mount. I'll keep an eye out for any radial runout.
Curious, my 3CL sprocket is a 36 tooth, why do you use 40 tooth?
 
Curious, my 3CL sprocket is a 36 tooth, why do you use 40 tooth?

What chain do you have? 530 or 630? It's difficult to tell from your photo.

Standard final drive gearing for Laverda triples with 530 chain is 19/40.
Not sure about 630. 16/34 seems to ring a bell, but 17/36 would also be a similar ratio.

If you have 530 and are running a 36 rear with a 19 front, it would be pretty tall gearing.
 
36 would be crazy big gearing for a road triple. After looking at your pic I was going to ask how much smaller you could go before touching the bolts, assuming you had std 40T. I'm going to run 37 on the SFQ, but that's to compensate the 17 inch wheel and exploit the bigger motor.

I'll see how my 520 alloy rear wears (with a Scottoiler) and decide whether I can cope with alloy long term. Should be OK - high quality DID X-ring chain.
 
I reckon you've got 530 chain - doesn't look at all like 630. Maybe you have an 18T gearbox sprocket? 1st gear with 19/36 would make clutch slipping away from a standstill as if you were in 2nd with std gearing!
 
What chain do you have? 530 or 630? It's difficult to tell from your photo.

Standard final drive gearing for Laverda triples with 530 chain is 19/40.
Not sure about 630. 16/34 seems to ring a bell, but 17/36 would also be a similar ratio.

If you have 530 and are running a 36 rear with a 19 front, it would be pretty tall gearing.
Excellent question Cam, thanks for bringing my attention to that because I always thought it ran tall but I thought that was just a Laverda characteristic. It is definitely a 530 chain, and it's running a 19/36 ratio. I would prefer a 19/40. Thanks
 
I reckon you've got 530 chain - doesn't look at all like 630. Maybe you have an 18T gearbox sprocket? 1st gear with 19/36 would make clutch slipping away from a standstill as if you were in 2nd with std gearing!

It'll feel crisp as buggery on 19/40! You'll be popping the front end aloft like a stunt rider!
Oh yeah! I'll never forget the first time I took it out. Jumped out in first up the street and I thought I had the wrong gear. Explains why I don't use 5th much around town! Even though I'm going to a 17" from an 18" wheel, I would now still prefer the 40T.
Makes me think, maybe I can find a readily available gear set so that I can go back to the 120 id sprocket. Not sure what is commercially available that will fit the Laverda small sprocket shaft.
 
Hey Chuck, I've got a spare 40T steel sprocket lying around if you wanna give it a try. It's used but in very good condition. The teeth look perfect with no apparent wear, so I don't think it was on the bike for long. It came off a crashed bike that I built into a race track project. Only reason I took it off was to change the gearing to 19/42. It's the usual solid Laverda sprocket with no lightening holes, so quite a bit heavier than Red's nice alloy jobs.
It's yours for the cost of postage if you want it.
 
Hey Chuck, I've got a spare 40T steel sprocket lying around if you wanna give it a try. It's used but in very good condition. The teeth look perfect with no apparent wear, so I don't think it was on the bike for long. It came off a crashed bike that I built into a race track project. Only reason I took it off was to change the gearing to 19/42. It's the usual solid Laverda sprocket with no lightening holes, so quite a bit heavier than Red's nice alloy jobs.
It's yours for the cost of postage if you want it.
That's great Cam. Very much appreciated. I'll PM you the follow up details.
 
Apologies Chuck. I just dug the sprocket out and it seems my memory was playing tricks. It's actually a 42 tooth sprocket, and it's unused but has a bit of rust on it. Now that I rack my brain, I think I gave the 40T to my brother for his 3C.
Anyway, you can have the 42 if you like but I doubt your chain will stretch that far (actually, you might be struggling to go from a 36 to a 40 without adding a couple of links). You might also find yourself looking for a 6th gear on the highway with a 42.
I've attached a photo of my spare rear sprockets. You could probably twist my arm to part with the 40T aluminium one, but it wouldn't be a give-away item.
 

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Just as an exercise in futility, I tried to find a sprocket on-line to fit a Laverda triple. I eventually gave up. 99% of motorcycle sprocket suppliers want you to search via make/model, and they either don't list Laverda as an option, or if they do, they have no stock.

I tried to figure out what other bikes have a 120mm dia hole in their rear sprockets, but that was a waste of time too. Nobody lists sprockets by the actual sprocket specifications.

In the end, I found this mob that'll make sprockets to your spec. PBI Sprockets. They have an outlet in Australia, but I think the sprockets are made in USA.

Probably a lot easier to stick with the usual Laverda parts specialists though.
 
My last rear sprocket change had me finally going back to steel after a couple of issues with alloy sprockets occurring in the middle of multiday rides a long way from home. I will probably cop some criticism for my lack of Maintenance but typically O ring chains go thousands of ks not needing adjustments and actually getting a good look at your rear sprocket isn't easy with the chain guard and brake making it hard to see the condition of the rear sprocket. It's even hard to see the sprocket during a wheel out tyre replacement. The first time was 800ks from home during a Snowy Ride when Marty tells me I am missing some, it ended up being 8 teeth, from my rear sprocket. I made it home but wasn't fun worrying about it. A couple of years later in the middle of an Oxley Hwy ride, I suddenly noticed I was lacking drive out of corners, the rear sprocket teeth were skipping on the chain, with a chain adjustment I again made it home with barely any teeth length left. So with that, I decided that a bit extra unsprung weight was better than those incidents popping up on big rides again. We do quite a lot of big K rides in the Sydney Club or at least did pre Covid.
 
Apologies Chuck. I just dug the sprocket out and it seems my memory was playing tricks. It's actually a 42 tooth sprocket, and it's unused but has a bit of rust on it. Now that I rack my brain, I think I gave the 40T to my brother for his 3C.
Anyway, you can have the 42 if you like but I doubt your chain will stretch that far (actually, you might be struggling to go from a 36 to a 40 without adding a couple of links). You might also find yourself looking for a 6th gear on the highway with a 42.
I've attached a photo of my spare rear sprockets. You could probably twist my arm to part with the 40T aluminium one, but it wouldn't be a give-away item.
That's Ok Cam, appreciate the gesture. I may just stick with the 36 for now-tell you why....I just got back from a test run with the KLR650 wheel (albeit without rear brakes yet) and it handled very well. Very responsive in the turns.
And going from the 18" to 17" wheel knocks off a lot of that 'too tall' feel in the gearing.
 
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