Regulator/Recifier Options 2024

Steve G.

Steve G.

Hero member
Yeah, it looks like my 14 yr old Tymantium Reg/rec has lost the battle, with my MK11 stator alternator, delivering 15.1volts at 3000 rpm with lights on.
What the current unit today that has good reputation?
 
I use Shindengen regulators off Japanese bikes. The most common one you will find at the breakers or Ebay is the FH012AA which was fitted to the Yamaha R1 and many other bikes. It is rated at 450 watts. The current version is the FH020AA. Be careful buying a new one as there are many Chinese copies which don't last long. A clue that it is a real Shindengen regulator is it will have a aluminum plate on the back.

This company sell new ones.

Roadstercycle.com | SH847 & FH027EA Regulator Kits | Jack Fleming

roadstercycle.com
 
As previous posts, check the sense wire connections/switch paths first would proffer, for absolute quick test. short the sense wire ( if your RR has external sense, some have internal ) to the battery positive terminal and retest with moderate motor rpm. RR diode/scr et al problems are usually low volts, not high.

Bruce as ever has sage advice on replacement RR, never bought a brand new RR in over 50 years, used is good for Japanese Shindengen, almost impossible to go wrong. HTH j
 
The FH Shindengen series are mosfet which is preferable (run cooler, more efficient) to earlier shunt devices. Be aware that they take up more space so you may need to relocate and they benefit from fitting the correct plugs rather than bodging with ordinary spade connectors 😁
 
Great advice from all lads. Thanks very much!!

Just to clarify, I did source a Shindegen reg/rec from a noted and trusted supplier, which turned out to be a Chinese copy. I’ve chosen not to use it. The supplier does not know it’s a Chinese copy.

Can I confirm that the alternator on the RGS and late 180’s is a 3 phase alternator?
 
The RGS has the well known 3rd phase disconnect switch arrangement for the headlight, the oem RR was undersized and the bullet connectors overheated. Discard the switched phase oem wiring scheme, need to plumb the new RR with rated connectors above 25Amp, ie stator connectors to RR. Doubt there will be too many Bosch alternators in use these days, that was bosch single phase for series 1 and ND 3 phase for the series 2 engines. HTH j
 
iis_iis said:
The RGS has the well known 3rd phase disconnect switch arrangement for the headlight, the oem RR was undersized and the bullet connectors overheated. Discard the switched phase oem wiring scheme, need to plumb the new RR with rated connectors above 25Amp, ie stator connectors to RR. Doubt there will be too many Bosch alternators in use these days, that was bosch single phase for series 1 and ND 3 phase for the series 2 engines. HTH j
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I’ve got the original alternator on my bike, so I’ll assume it’s the Nippon Denso 3 phase. It’s only got 4 wires out of the system, and as following pictures show, the Tympanium Voltpak I wired it in 23 years ago, has 3 wires, and a black ground,,,,it appears one wasn’t wired in. Also I’ve got pics of it he new reg/rec unit which has a full assortment of wires , and a separate black ground wire.
 

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Full pics.
 

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There were two wires in parallel White Blue for one colour as i recall, any wires from the oem RGS stator that have the same colour code are the same ie you can use either one as supply to the RR. The added wires over a standard ND stator of 3 wires ( usually all yellow these days ) for the RGS are to facilitate keeping the oem ( Denso from memory ) from cooking itself. The factory RGS service manual has a diagram that helps explain the convoluted extra wires in the stator harness, confusing perhaps at first, bit of study and the obvious is revealed. Though i see from the photos, may have already sorted the stator 3 wires. to the RR. j
 
I ordered Jack’s super MOSFET kit, all in. Seems like it will handle the Laverda’s 3 phase stator easily. I can take advantage of my U.S. mailing address as well, I live 5 miles from the U.S.- Canada border, no worries about insane cross border brokerage fees.
 
Just picked up the kit from Roadstercycle. The components are all very robust! If I hook
It up correctly I’m sure this will be the last reg/ rec I need for this bike.


A bit of info FYI, Japanese company Shindegen is now building all their components in China, confirmed by Jack at Roadstercycle.
 
Hi Jo. I also fitted LED headlight and rear light. Just did a ling journey too and ftom MotoGP with lights on and full/high charge retained.
 
LDC420 said:
I also fitted LED headlight and rear light
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I'm very relieved to hear that - the single phase reg/rect would not be enough for the poor Bosch alternator to charge the battery, support the DMC ignition and power the conventional lights! I think someone else discovered that sad fact on their ride to Willersey on Sunday.
 
Rob said:
I'm very relieved to hear that - the single phase reg/rect would not be enough for the poor Bosch alternator to charge the battery, support the DMC ignition and power the conventional lights! I think someone else discovered that sad fact on their ride to Willersey on Sunday.
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Me too, after Willersey I went down to Cornwall. On the way back I wanted the headlight on due to traffic congestion and rain. Next morning at campsite, no starty. DMC2, normal H4 headlight, 1978 1200. No regulator
 
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