SF 1 infomation

motoddrob said:
Pretty sure it's the carbon in the zorst that's the problem with contamination, not the internals.
Click to expand...
if the internals are rotted away then they will break off and contaminate the bath. Jota pipes have no internals so it's not a problem. On the other hand 750 pipes do have internals that will not only break off but will attract a carbon build up hence the need to preclean.
Regards Andy 😁
 
Fitz said:
The scrolled pin and bronze bushes seemed like a reasonable solution especially when people have said they still have wear problems using needle rollers
Click to expand...

Never had a wear problem with needle rollers. Very happy with them actually. Converted from bronze bushes 4 decades ago.
 
Piet sees a shit load of bikes though, and he sees them with stuffed needle rollers, and stuffed bushes. The bushes definitely need a regular squeeze through of new grease if they are to last.
 
I'd suppose to go for full compartment (HN designator) needle roller bearing instead of the one with cages as I have suggested here: https://www.laverdaforum.com/forum/index.php/topic,93883.msg338888.html#msg338888.

Friend of mine did this recently on his 3CL and it worked out nice, widening the bearing seats in the swingarm was not required. Only the inner bushings originally intendend for the cage type bearings needed the OD sligthly polished down, as the have been of a too tight fit initially. But that was an easy task, not more needed than a drilling press and a bit of emery paper.
Endurance testing is under way, but I'd expect the full compartment type to last better than the cage type bearings.

All the best,
Stefan
 
The bushes definitely need a regular squeeze through of new grease if they are to last.
Click to expand...

I used the bronze bushes for years on my Sf proddy racer (still got them and it) - as you say - loosen swinger nuts off - pump with grease  until it comes out betwixt frame and bush end - swing on nuts - 30 years on - still no sign of wear. - Regards - Phil
 
Tippie said:
Piet sees a shit load of bikes though, and he sees them with stuffed needle rollers, and stuffed bushes. The bushes definitely need a regular squeeze through of new grease if they are to last.
Click to expand...

True.

Both systems work well, IF they recieve a blob of fresh grease every now and then.  Bushes can and will carry greater loads and will potentially last a lot longer than needle rollers.  The needles make only point contact with the races and pivot through only a tiny arc, not allowing the rollers even a full revolution.  Even a well-maintained needle bearing will eventually show signs of wear, just like steering stem bearings, much the same scenario. 

piet
 
Got my new needle roller set up from Andy in Germany - thanks Andy

I just dismantled the Ceriani rear shocks prior to overhaul and vapour blasting, they looked ok at first glance, one has little compression but the spring does most of that work, the rebound is fine

The second unit is doing absolutely zero in either direction, there is a small ring on the top of the hydraulic cylinder, can they be overhauled, I had a stab with my circlip pliers but I am not going to damage my good tools if they are not meant to be taken apart. I assume  there are bushes and seals inside both of which must be buggered

I can't imagine how this thing was being ridden, the swing arm was flopping around, it had rock hard TT100 tyres on and there was only damper doing anything, whoever rode it has my utmost admiration - brave lads these Italians

Christ knows what I will find when I get to the forks, I am expecting poor springs, possibly bent stanchions, bushes knackered and oil like piss - I can see me visiting my suspension man in Preston again, he got my Monty race bike handling like a dream, even with a lump like me on it I have stuck it to some good lads. My best efforts are the uphill left hander at Cadwell at the end of the main straight, I used to roll it off and when I first started knock it down a gear, now I just keep it lit up until I get to the right hander, even then I only roll it off to settle the bike down - I digress

Any thoughts on rear shocks, if anyone has an original pair that work, I am happy to cosmetically overhaul them

I set up another venture a while ago providing a vapour blasting service and sales of vapour blasting equipment. The results I get are fantastic and very quick. I can have a set of shocks off, dismantled blasted and painted in no time, the rear end is already done and rear wheel and brake is now blasted all new bearings, tyre, tube and rim tape, ready to go back in. I was going to paint the swing arm myself but my good pal is an autobody specialist so we decided to do it in 2 pack and laquer as it is subject to a lot of crap from the road. So that will delay things a day or two

Another question, I assume that the ignition back plate is removed to allow removal of the clutch cover and then re-timed after assembly or can the cover come off without disturbing it - I haven't looked yet

As always - thanks for your input
 
You need to get the ignition plate off and the centrifugal advance behind it off to remove the primary cover.
You don't need to retime it on reassembly, just scribe a mark to put it back in the same position.

Paul
 
When I restore Cerianis or Marzocchi Stradas I always have the damper rods re-hard chromed.
False economy not to as even though they may look ok there will be microscopic wear which will kill new seals in rapid order.

The job is easier if you have the special tools to do the job.
 
To get the advance unit base off the oil pump drive shaft, they can give a bit of resistance, I just put the screws back in some turns and wriggle it off with a couple of pairs of pliers on the screws, there is a special tool but you don?t need it. If it is on points you will need to reset them. If it has electronic it won't have an advance unit (I can't see the earlier posts about it in Reply) and a scribed mark will do but it may pay to check it anyway.
If you want it good get some Maxtons, by all means do up the old ones for showing, even old SFs deserve good suspension.
 
Paul Marx said:
You need to get the ignition plate off and the centrifugal advance behind it off to remove the primary cover.
You don't need to retime it on reassembly, just scribe a mark to put it back in the same position.

Paul
Click to expand...

I know you love your points, Paul, but no way you can just scribe a mark on a points system and hope that it's timed correctly!!
 
The last bike I owned with points was an XT 500 Yamaha, hard enough to start it but unless you were constantly fiddling with the points and timing it was a complete bastard to start especially when hot. That's why I have 2 separate ACLs in my right knee.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
I know you love your points, Paul, but no way you can just scribe a mark on a points system and hope that it's timed correctly!!
Click to expand...

Within 3 or 4 degrees is largely sufficient.

Paul
 
If you just remove and replace the entire backing plate, the random difference in points gap can have it out way more than that. I would never dream of not checking the timing after refitting one.
 
Tippie said:
If you just remove and replace the entire backing plate, the random difference in points gap can have it out way more than that. I would never dream of not checking the timing after refitting one.
Click to expand...

You're certainly right.
I imagine the timing on my bikes has been inaccurate for the last 30 years. But to what degree (no pun intended) does it need to be accurate for everyday use?
And I always time the bikes statically.
I fully know all the nasty things that happen with timing/carbs out. Only, they don't happen in normal road use. By that I mean, road use, not motorways or constant high rev running which is not what motorcycling is about.
My engines are rarely above 4000 revs for any length of time. Don't need to be in real world road use. I more or less respect speed limits. 80 or 90 km/h doesn't even warrant using 5th gear on my SF2.

I fully understand the need to tinker a bike, knowing afterwards that every thing is spot on and finding that after a few hours of use, you need to start again.
There is an acceptable compromise.

I would be much more precise were I to set up an engine for prolonged track use.

Paul
 
KERMIT1200 said:
Hi Fritz,
I have ground my gearbox sprockets down to allow 520 chain to fit. Would be interested in knowing which early Honda Twin has the same spline setup?

By the way you planning at being at Pembrey  in July(25th and 26th) if BHR hold the event?

Andy
Click to expand...

Hi Andy, realise I am late to this convo but is the meeting still on in Pembrey on those dates? I live about 5 miles from there so would nip down to watch.
Regards,
Tyrone
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top