SF2 Owners, Help, Please?

Will be a good project to follow Mr Sock. Some nice original touches on the bike including the Laverda branded bolt on the left of the starter cover 😊👍
Tom
 
I had the same problem with my starter chain and no amount of soaking it in paraffin and then oil freed it off. By memory, I think its the same as a Reliant timing chain... it was many years ago so maybe I'm mistaken.
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Your rear rubber tank supports look a tad thin, Mark.
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Okay, thought I'd bounce my reply to Quentin back onto Hamish's original SF2 post.
Thanks Quentin, you have confirmed my reluctance to include that photo but then I thought WTF I'm just trying to help Hamish.

So, the story is...
The thin rubber strips you saw stuck to the frame are only there to provide a tad more height to the rear of the SF2 tank.
Yep, I still use the crescent shaped rubber tank mounts. (see photo)
As we know, the SF tanks can have a habit of shuffling back down the frame when they are full. The factory tank strap struggles with that task.
And I gave up on the after market tank straps years ago. Has been interesting to read recently that some folk here are now 3D printing their own. My cheap and cheerful option was to start using O-Rings. The O-Rings work well and last for years. Currently I use a BS359 Viton.
Also use O-Rings for my Jota but that's also raised just a tad at the rear of the tank.
On my SF2 under the rear of the tank I've taped on some strips of anti-slip traction tape that helps the tops of the rubber mounts hold on to the tank a bit better. Only downside is the top of the rear mounts start to get chewed out after a while. Not bothered, as they're consumables.

Always open to other ideas.. :cool:
 

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markQLD said:
Okay, thought I'd bounce my reply to Quentin back onto Hamish's original SF2 post.
Thanks Quentin, you have confirmed my reluctance to include that photo but then I thought WTF I'm just trying to help Hamish.

So, the story is...
The thin rubber strips you saw stuck to the frame are only there to provide a tad more height to the rear of the SF2 tank.
Yep, I still use the crescent shaped rubber tank mounts. (see photo)
As we know, the SF tanks can have a habit of shuffling back down the frame when they are full. The factory tank strap struggles with that task.
And I gave up on the after market tank straps years ago. Has been interesting to read recently that some folk here are now 3D printing their own. My cheap and cheerful option was to start using O-Rings. The O-Rings work well and last for years. Currently I use a BS359 Viton.
Also use O-Rings for my Jota but that's also raised just a tad at the rear of the tank.
On my SF2 under the rear of the tank I've taped on some strips of anti-slip traction tape that helps the tops of the rubber mounts hold on to the tank a bit better. Only downside is the top of the rear mounts start to get chewed out after a while. Not bothered, as they're consumables.

Always open to other ideas.. :cool:
Click to expand...
Thanks for that picture, Mark. It confirms that the black plastic box, on mine, is original and, also, how the regulator should be mounted. At the moment it's hanging from a couple of home-made rubber straps, one of which has failed, the other about to, on bolts that are too long. The PO obviously didn't own a hacksaw.
IMG_8309.JPGIMG_8311.JPG
I'm going to have to tidy up the wiring, too.
I absolutely hate Scotch Locks, and those red crimp connectors not much less. Love the use of domestic power supply wire of cuts to extend wires. At least, he'd manage to get some heat shrink, albeit not the right size for the job.
IMG_8308.JPG
 
I hate cutting bolts, needs must occasionally like Brooker Rod, thats threaded rod you cut to length without any head, it needs nuts on both ends. Learned in the building game to first wind on a nut before cutting and shamfer the cut before winding the nut off to clean the tread, but nothing beats a proper length bolt with the correct few exposed threads past the nut. It just looks proper and correct.
 
markQLD said:
As we know, the SF tanks can have a habit of shuffling back down the frame when they are full. The factory tank strap struggles with that task.
And I gave up on the after market tank straps years ago. Has been interesting to read recently that some folk here are now 3D printing their own.

Always open to other ideas.. :cool:
Click to expand...
Ah, that old chesnut, Mark! So so glad I copied Lee's idea many years ago to angle the front tank mounts down during a respray or repair. Problem solved forever. This issue has raised its ugly head quite a few times lately. Had the opportunity to have my mate's tank fixed forever as well, but ran into a brick wall from the guy doing the work. A bit of solid support from mates would have helped (not mentioning any names ... Hooksey! :cool: )
 
Yes that rat’s wiring nest is an “endearing” feature of these 750s and I’m always afraid to touch it when I remove the tank. If I was more electrically savvy I’d redo it, so anyone who,s done that please offer some pics or info, thanks
 
piranha-bro2 said:
Ah, that old chesnut, Mark! So so glad I copied Lee's idea many years ago to angle the front tank mounts down during a respray or repair. Problem solved forever. This issue has raised its ugly head quite a few times lately. Had the opportunity to have my mate's tank fixed forever as well, but ran into a brick wall from the guy doing the work. A bit of solid support from mates would have helped (not mentioning any names ... Hooksey! :cool: )
Click to expand...
A hard nut to crack mate..............If Walky couldn't convince him with Pineapples, then I would have no hope. Whens the big reveal? ;)
 
hooksey said:
A hard nut to crack mate..............If Walky couldn't convince him with Pineapples, then I would have no hope. Whens the big reveal? ;)
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In your defence, dead right Prez - a hard nut indeed. You can tell it really got under my skinny skin skin, eh ... we're now facing the prospect of he-who-must-not-be-named's beautiful tank work being compromised when the seat chews away at it.

The big reveal? All that remains is directly related to Teddy's comment above: rewiring that horror under the seat. Unfortunately life is getting in the way of solid workshop time and even our big trip north and into Indonesia is being curtailed.
 
I was intrigued by Piet's cure for wayward SF tanks and may well opt for it, come repainting time.
In the meantime, if a moth farted the tank would move back in a heartbeat.
Speaking to Phil Todd, he suggested that the tank should be a tight fit on the front rubber buttons. Upon examination, the ones on mine were extremely sloppy. The strap, also, had seen much better days.
On Ged's recommendation, I ordered new ones from Mdina Italia. The new strap made it obvious how shagged the old one was.
I'm pleased to report the tank is now secure.
Worn Tank Strap.jpg
 
Even with a new rubber strap, my SF2 tank wants to slide back, so perhaps the rubber bumpers need to be replaced. One other thing I’d like are Norton like knurled metal seat fasteners so that the seat can be removed w/o a wrench to access the tool kit under the seat.
 
TeddyG said:
Even with a new rubber strap, my SF2 tank wants to slide back, so perhaps the rubber bumpers need to be replaced. One other thing I’d like are Norton like knurled metal seat fasteners so that the seat can be removed w/o a wrench to access the tool kit under the seat.
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New rubbers will only work until they're worn again.

Tools not accessible from the sidecovers?
 
You got me there Pirhana, but I,d still like to have an easier removable seat. I,ve seen plastic knobs w bolts but nothing in a nice alloy and I think Norton’s will be wentworth?
 
TeddyG said:
You got me there Pirhana, but I,d still like to have an easier removable seat. I,ve seen plastic knobs w bolts but nothing in a nice alloy and I think Norton’s will be wentworth?
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How about adapting something from a bicycle quick release? Seat posts use them as well as wheels. they're usually a small (M5) thread but I reckon you could easily recut to M6 or even M8 ... nice short alloy lever ... bingo!

Quick Release.png

Can even get them chromed in M8.

www.ebay.com.au

80’s RETRO STYLE BIKE QUICK RELEASE M8 SEAT POST BOLT,SADDLE PIN QR LEVER BOLT P | eBay Australia

· THIS TYPE OFQUICK RELEASE SADDLE PIN BOLT WAS USED EXTENSIVELYON A MOST TYPES OFBIKES BY RALEIGH, BSA, DAWES ETC AS ITALL OWSYOU TO QUICKLY RAISE OR LOWERTHE HEIGHT OF THE SEAT. · CAM LEVER ACTION.
www.ebay.com.au
 
TeddyG said:
You got me there Pirhana, but I,d still like to have an easier removable seat. I,ve seen plastic knobs w bolts but nothing in a nice alloy and I think Norton’s will be wentworth?
Click to expand...
You use a key for the ignition?
Use it to very easily loosen a side panel screw for quick access to the tools behind that'll then very quickly remove the seat?
If you make it too easy then you risk your stuff disappearing when you briefly walk away from it, we all need nature breaks.
I keep an allen wrench to tighten the mirrors in the tank bag but everything else is in a tool roll behind the side panels (and in the GTL tool tray under the seat) where I'm generally fairly comfortable they will be there when I need them.
 
I don't do crosswords myself, but friends who do tell me that part of the skill is learning how the setter thinks. I guess the same could be said about sorting out bodges applied to a bike over its life. You begin to form a mental image of previous owners.
I finally worked out why the standard wiring had been extended, using domestic mains cable, the handlebar switch cable had been misrouted. Re-routing the cable correctly, allowed the bodge to be removed.
Extension, Why.jpg
 
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