SF2 Owners, Help, Please?

Gives me the shivers looking at that, Hamish! I'm in the process of sorting my mate, Bryan's (Walky on here) SF2 ... every wire and connection I look at has an issue and sends me to the 'start-from-scratch' point - lots of new harnesses, connectors and crimping going on over the last week! i'm trying to streamline it at the same time - too much up-and-back.
 
Insure NO Carb to Intake flange air leaks to the Engine an NO air leaks or collapsing Intake Manifold Hose. I suggest a sturdy Hydraulic Hose for the Intake Manifold Hose ;o)

Forget the crappy "O" Rings in the bake-alight insulators between the carb and Intake flange to the engine and use an Amphoric Engine case Sealer.

Drill a 1/8th hole in the bottom of the distributor cap to drain moisture and put a re-usable cured ring of Amphoric Engine Case Sealer on the Distributor Cap, that way you will always be able to start your Breganzie 750 after a rain or after you have washed it ;o)
 
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After enduring some intermittent and temporary fail to proceed in last year's Snowy Ride, I had the local wiring bloke strip and replace my whole loom. Way better now, he has some work to do on the Atlas as well, just 4 issues to tidy up, including a swap to an all-metal keyed ignition switch from the original plastic fail-at-any-time crap original one.
 
Here's a NOS original one, from Denmark. Came with the Bosch regulator attached, now on the Segoni.

Marnix
 

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There are some tired looking electrical wire and connections Hamish, redundant scotchlock can get the flick. Of note, blade compression tool used on the various Faston/quick connects ( 6.3mm ), may or may not be reliable, sure you have the proper ratchet crimps and dies for embossed crimping.

Somewhat of a conundrum with old wires and tired connections, wire to connector corrosion that is hard to see from a visual. Ignition circuit ( 12 V ) starter, and lights a priority. If pressed i would renew all the wire/connections to the ignition as priority, even if that meant bypassing the oem electrical system, altogether. Have done this in past times for urgent reliability mantra, a full rewire is a big job in any man's world. Skill is on your side. j
 
Just finishing off a rewire on Walky's SF2 - total redesign of the system, using relays for main general power feed, ignition-coil circuit, high and low beam, modern 4x fuse box with single power feed cable. Reduced the wires going through the 2 x12 connector strip to 1 x12. New mini coils, Ignitech, rear brake microswitch. Moved a few things to inside the headlight shell to negate the stupid trip up-back-up to the strip block of several wires.

You're dead right, Jon, a very big and time-consuming job indeed.
 
Hamish, can I heartedly congratulate you on your new choice of steed. Also, the fact that it isn’t orange.

Unfortunately, your SF2 is virtually Tomorrow’s World in comparison to my GT and SF, so I have nothing of any value to add that’s model specific.

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts on riding and ownership of one of these lovely 750 twins.
 
Bit of a result, today.
The final red plastic crimp terminal has been consigned to the bin.
The last, too short cable has been replaced by one of appropriate length.
I've found and put in place the cabling for the, yet to be fitted, indicators.
Welded a piece in the replacement tool tray sourced from Alan Bell, along with a dualseat.
Both will go to the soda blaster, prior to being painted.
New seat covers have been made by Tony O'Connor, at Eldorado, and are on their way to me.
 
I've been a little frustrated by the 750, possibly because I know my way round my Triple in the dark.
I imagine, when they were building SFs, they did so in a blur of thin-walled sockets and super-skinny spaners.
So many of its fixings are difficult to get at.
Finally, today, a job that's significantly easier than its Triple equivalent!
The tappets are now checked and set, caps polished and replaced with new O-rings. Only one of the four old ones actually looked like an O-ring, the rest looked well used/abused.
Waiting for my tool tray and rear light/Plate holder to come back from the soda blaster, so I can get them painted. I need to fashion holders for the indicators, then get it out and run it before dropping the old oil and inspecting the filter, primary chain and gear lever spring before topping it up with fresh oil and getting some miles/kilometers on it.

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Thin quarter inch socket sets are everywhere now so the 10mm hex is ok. Back in the day it was common to swap for allen (unbrako) screws because of them.
 
Tippie said:
Thin quarter inch socket sets are everywhere now so the 10mm hex is ok. Back in the day it was common to swap for allen (unbrako) screws because of them.
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It’s the nuts on frame brackets, like the coil clamps, Lee. They have the nuts tight up against the frame tube. Several others have fought me, too.
 
Yeah the coil clamps are tops, I fitted small Dyna coils so don't have that any more. Underside of the airbox and handlebar clamp nuts under the top triple clamp are good ones. Try getting at the lower rear engine mount bolts with the collector clamp in place.
 
You might know this but the valve adjuster cover gaskets can be sourced from an industrial bearing shop, Honda 750 exhaust gaskets fit, and I ditched that horrible air box and replaced with K&N pod filters using the rubber snorkels to angle away from the frame, and saw no difference using either.
 
Back in the world of ' I know I've got it! If only I knew where.'
I definitely have one of these, complete with fitting screws and a serviceable rubber. It's in a ziploc bag, so none of the bits get mislaid.

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Wish I could say the same for the ziploc bag!
And so, again, I'm forced into the timeworn, foolproof method of finding it:
I've ordered a new one. It would have to be a Bank Holiday weekend, to further delay getting it fitted.
 
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