Speedo washer

Hi Miguel
May I humbly suggest you run the bike for a couple of hundred kilometres to bed the new discs and pads in. They tend to feel a bit weird at first then settle down.

Enjoy Bob
 
BobSol said:
Hi Miguel
May I humbly suggest you run the bike for a couple of hundred kilometres to bed the new discs and pads in. They tend to feel a bit weird at first then settle down.

Enjoy Bob
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Hi!
Yes! That is the most common sense answer in any case🤣🤣
Yes, I will do that, but first I will set the fork with the correct procedure, to eliminate one factor. The rest I will wait before getting crazy😁
 
Just out of interest, what's the thickness of your discs?
No need to shim calipers unless they've been messed around with.

Paul
 
Hi Miguel firstly you have done a great job restoring your bike its really great to see someone younger enjoying the Laverda passion and also doing a brilliant job of returning bikes to an as new or better appearance, bravo.
The pistons of course do self centre but as Paul mentioned you may have a piston fully retracted and due to the slighty thicker rotor have a pad that is still in contact with the rotor, when you apply the brakes this may in fact nip that rotor if thats the case giving you a twisting sensation in the front of the bike.
Go through setting the forks on the axle correctly as earlier detailed then look at the rotors and caplier relationship.
 
michipons said:
Thickness is 6’18mm.
Shimming idea was to center it between the pads, but of course they should self center when pumping.
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My discs measure up at 7.16mm. Not surprised new pads are too thick. Will have to do a lot of hard braking to wear the discs a bit.

Paul
 
Ok Guys,
We have a winner, of course the title of the thread was too small.
After making some modifications in the fork calipers and so on (useful but not the source of the problem) i could see some dents in the front downpipe, the effect of twisting handlebar when braking hard was because the front mudguard bracket was touching the center downpipe. I thought about a bent fork clamp and few other things, but after sending a video to a friend in Australia he has confirmed a slightly bended frame (upper main tube) apparently is a common problem.

Anyway, now I have to find a solution because I really love this bike, rides beautiful and the engine works fantastic.

Maurice told me that a possible solution is to fit a later model center downpipe, that are a bit shorter thus increasing the clearance to the front bracket. Problem is… where to find one?? I will post it in “wanted” and lets see.

Any other solutions??

Best regards,
Miguel
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Maybe its had a won't mention the name, frame backbone cut and trim. Apparently a racing mod back in the day. Quickened up the steering if the story was right.
 
Patrick Puxley had, I believe, problems with centre pipe interference, resolved by overhauling the front forks.
Malcolm's down pipes.jpgMalcolm Cox's pipes are set with the centre pipe set back, but I don't know if he supplies them singly.
 
Remembering what Phil Todd did with his race bikes. Cut the top frame tube, it will spring apart. Then weld in the missing piece.

Paul
 
Yep, as above.Put a cable tie on the fork and see how much travel it's using on hard braking, full travel in Cer is 130mm. Even bottoming them shouldn't result in that hard damaging contact. But dialling out a big chunk of fork travel is not to me a good fix.
 
my lower yoke shaft, has a bit of an angle with the head pipe… could it be the reason for the backwards position instead of a bent frame? I don’t see how to overhaul this as the position is governed by three straight bars…

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Early triples had an offset triple tree, there is a 1.5deg difference between the frame angle and the triple tree angle. That's is the lower offset is slightly different to the upper offset. That's std equipment.
 
What I found hard to do was get those tubular spacers into the grommets that rubber mounts that guard. They need to be short enough to allow movement and flex but long enough not to allow the grommet to be crushed. It's a pain to get them into the grommet and a pain to mount the guard, so hopefully, it ends up the right way around.
 
Vince said:
What I found hard to do was get those tubular spacers into the grommets that rubber mounts that guard. They need to be short enough to allow movement and flex but long enough not to allow the grommet to be crushed. It's a pain to get them into the grommet and a pain to mount the guard, so hopefully, it ends up the right way around.
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Yes, I had that problem too. But eventually managed. Ok, the offset makes sense, which leads me to the slightly bended frame. It is funny though as the bike had no signs of a crash. And drives perfectly stable also without hands.
Anyway, now the focus is on how to avoid the front mudguard bracket touching the middle downpipe. Easiest solution would be to swap it for a later model that I was told is a bit shorter and lays a bit more backwards.

Any idea how to find one and how to identify if it is the shorter version?

Regards and thank you all for your great inputs,
Miguel
 
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