Starting my 1000/1

michipons

michipons

Hero member
Location
Palma de Mallorca
Hi!

Finally I have put the 1000/1 on the table. The SF has to wait to the last (hopefully) spare parts order to be finished. So I thought I would start working on the 1000/1.

My idea this time, is to go 100% original, the only change I would do, is to fit it with trumpets instead of air filter. Double seat and leaf green.

The state of the bike is quite bad at first sight, however it started right away without even cleaning carburetors (over 30 years stopped), the previous owner promises that the bike has 8.500 km. So indicates the odometer. With spark plugs in, the starter has not enough power to turn the engine unless the battery is connected to a charger (I am using old batteries), I don't know if the batteries are weak, or something is wrong there, doesn't really matters as I will go to FULL restoration. Hopefully I can keep original pistons, bearings and crank without sending it for balancing.

After a thorough look, most of the screws of the bike are original "3f" and some "sbe" i think specially on the engine, it doesn't look that the bike has ever been disassembled or modified (except for the seat, removed flashers and horns changed with a horn relay).

Well, I started with the electric system, and first doubts came, I think this must be the part of the bike with most modifications, I will post some photos, and you can give me your advices, most of the parts are original I believe (I never had a tripple before so I can't really say).

- Behind the battery there are several relays, the starter relay, the stop relay, a rectifier and then a big one, an starter solenoid?, all of them were badly screwed, I can't imagine that was the original set up! does anybody has some photos of this electrical part? is this big starter solenoid original? (I belive it opens to allow + flow to the starter)

- In the front there is this red box, is it a voltage regulator? I think that was mounted after, as all its connections are "outside" the cables hoses, it is connected to the gen light, the blue cable of the stop relay and another to earth... is it really necessary or is it enough with the rectifier? does the red generator light works originally?

Sorry a lot of questions, but any inputs are appreciated, I hope that I can bring this bike back to life and then pass the examination of the "original police", i even want to zinc all original screws! :LOL: :LOL:

Miguel

IMG_6018.JPG

IMG_6016.JPG

IMG_6015.JPG

IMG_6013.JPG

IMG_6011.JPG

IMG_6010.JPG

IMG_6003.JPG

IMG_6001.JPG

IMG_5999.JPG

 
Sorry I forgot,

that is the solenoid I was talking about... In my electric system from the green book, it doesn't exist... the red cables are connected to the starter relay

Miguel

IMG_2710_2.JPG
 
That is a right rats nest... throw it all out and start from scratch!  A lot less hassle and head scratching, plus you don't need to work with shagged 30-odd-year-old wiring.

Making your own allows you to neatly include mods such as lighting relays, etc.  May seem daunting at first, but great satisfaction sets in when it lights up for the first time!  And, because you know every single strand of wire by its first name, you'll never need more than 10 seconds to find a fault.  :D

piet
 
Hi Piet,

I think there was something else but rats... if you would see the place it was...

Yes, my idea is to re-do all, I did it already for the SF3, actually I used some of the original cables as some of the colours are difficult to find.

With this one, I'd like to do the same, complete rebuilt, but I would like to conserve the original relays, mounting brackets and so on. I mean, relays are working, but dunno which of them must/have to be there and which shouldn't.

Some photos of a clean instalation would help :D

Miguel.

Here some photos about the sf3 elec restoration

IMG_3302.JPG

IMG_3300.JPG

IMG_3268.JPG

IMG_3243.JPG

IMG_3242.JPG

IMG_3131.JPG

IMG_3240.JPG

IMG_3130.JPG

IMG_3125.JPG

IMG_3126.JPG

IMG_3499.JPG

IMG_3497.JPG
 
New 3C looms at reasonable cost from-

http://www.motorcyclewiringspecialists.co.uk/home.html


I have one,think Paul Marx bought one too.

Shaun

 
I remember that finally re doing my sf3 loom was quite expensive as I had to buy lots of different colours in excess, plus hoses... but it was fun!

Are you happy with the quality? aproximate price? Did you have to make a connector for the handlebar switches I guess... I rewelded all connections inside the controllers just to have inunterrupted cable as the original...  8) but is not really comfortable everytime you need to pull it out :LOL: :LOL:

Miguel
 
Richard Prowse whose company it is, was recommended to me by Richard Slater, I was his guinea pig for the 3C,he is ex RAF,work and quality is meticulous,my loom was only ?86.00 as it was his first, Pauls I believe wasn t too much more,sure he will chip in,.I didn"t need handlebar switch rewiring, just the main loom and the sub horn loom.

Shaun
 
Yikes!! For an 8500km bike? Those were ... hard miles!!!

Trying to replicate the original wiring sys to keep it original might be a stretch too far - relays for a start improve things considerably (and can be added without altering the original wiring). Are you going to fit genuine handlebars?
 
My experience is limited because I've only worked on one 3C with HKZ Bosch ignition. But it didn't have that red box labelled "voltimetro a lamparas".  I suspect it's a modification by a previous owner. It appears to be a device to drive the generator light. Although it may have a voltage regulation function. This model didn't come with a voltage regulator, just a rectifier.

It's unusual to find one of those HKZ ignitions still in working order. Don't crank the engine with the spark plugs disconnected or you'll fry its brains.
 
I see that the top frame rails have the hinge mounts for the later 3CL type seat, but no locking pin plate.
OEM ex factory?

Gerald
 
Wow, lots of work to do, but surely a very worthwhile and satisfying project.
You may want to check the ignition wiring behind the alternator cover, as the insulation often degrades.
That's an unfamiliar looking oil cooler and seems to be a replacement of the original unit. 

Tom
 
Gerald said:
I see that the top frame rails have the hinge mounts for the later 3CL type seat, but no locking pin plate.
OEM ex factory?

Gerald
Click to expand...

Yes, somebody welded and installed a later seat, one of a 1200 that I am selling now. I don?t know why... maybe a crash and they had this one somewhere in the workshop🤷🏼‍♂️
I found and restoring already a 3C double seat.

Miguel
 
Just to reconduct a bit to the original topic.

If I go to original electric config:

- i have to remove the red voltimetro and leave it with the rectifier. The Gen red loght not working?

- the starter relay was originally just one, like the 750 or two, 1 relay plus solenoid as I have now?

- starter relay, stop relay and rectifier, what is its normal positioning? Mines were screwed directly to the tool box... somebody to post some photos of his bike under the seat??

Miguel
 
The starter solenoid should not require a relay to operate it, it should only require very low amperage to activate it. That is easy to check with an ammeter.
You should not have to hard-wire your switches. The only ones that could carry much current are the main keyed ignition switch, headlights and horn and they are best with relays.
 
LJ-2 said:
Richard Prowse whose company it is, was recommended to me by Richard Slater, I was his guinea pig for the 3C,he is ex RAF,work and quality is meticulous,my loom was only ?86.00 as it was his first, Pauls I believe wasn t too much more,sure he will chip in,.I didn"t need handlebar switch rewiring, just the main loom and the sub horn loom.

Shaun
Click to expand...

I think that mine worked out at ?140. There are no sub looms it seems, ie instruments and switches. Will see into that when assembling. It's going to need modification since there's a Redax Ignitech and alternator kit going in.

Paul
 
The wiring on my 74 3C was probably in a worse state than yours Miguel. The ignition key was under the seat. Not very handy.
As for the rest, just about everything that could go wrong in that engine was there.

It would be nice if I could finish it for the spring.

Paul
 
My 3CL looked a lot worse than yours when I started. If you are going to make yours a usable, rideable bike, upgrading the ignition and charging system should be your starting point. Take a long look at the insulation on the ignition pickup wiring and on the coil assembly. You will likely find the insulation flaking off in chunks. Red's ign/alt is the way to go as it provides much more electrical power to run lighting you can actually see things with at night. The nest inside the headlight is pretty intimidating on initial viewing but is pretty simple if you have a good diagram.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top