Starting my 1000/1

CLEMTOG said:
this is what a genuine factory fitted two phase reg/rect looks like, they are no longer available, this is only the second one in 40 years that I have had on my bike (TOG) and at least 210,000 kilometres, with plenty more not recorded.

it is the finned aluminium box at the bottom, the fuses and carrier are not original but EXTREMELY worthwhile as the currently made torpedo fuses are not good at all.

CLEM
Click to expand...

I think the rectifier from the 3C is a bit smaller and fitted below the toolbox. It is available at Laverda-paradies, original Bosch.
But I like the idea of fitting a rectifier/regulator even if I don?t install an AGM battery.

Pf1, what about a gel battery? Will I have the same problems as with an AGM? Did you install a tegulator with the AGM battery?
My electrical knowledge is close to 0, but still don?t see why an AGM battery wouldn?t work with a modern regulator, my impression is that it will recharge at lower rate due to weak generator🤷🏼‍♂️

Miguel

 
Hi Miguel, Yes the original rectifier is below the tool box right hand side. 

I have been using AGM batteries since 2005. The DEKA ETX30L seems very durable. Lasts about 5 or 6 years. I have no experience with the Gel batteries. I ran an Odyssey battery that did not last years ago, AIRC.

My original Bosch rectifier did not tolerate the marginal increase in wattage when I boosted the charging system. I fried mine after a long ride after fitting a DMC/2 with an additional charging coil. 

I then fitted an ElectroSport Ducati regulator/rectifier and that worked well for 15 years.

I did just change to a 10-001H Mosfet regulator from Ricks  https://ricksmotorsportelectrics.com/ and the battery gets a good 14.5 volts very quickly.  I also update the DMC to the newer /32 with larger charging coils (claimed output 200W) and a single inducer rather than the twin original Bosch inducers. The bike runs very well.
6MHT20JguopM384_-vfkGEJFEJXjXnw7dUdVVwFzlxrzMqJ__Kus1RPiwmApYtamjEqmw_nUQw4EMKWclyXodTWFBgJWeHz7MdDiz5EfKvrcWl21hcmMtPHE5uYtPVWFnHnJev0z_w
 
Not suitabke because of the single phase?
And sorry, Indidn?t understand, what batteries are you now using? Sealed gel type?
Miguel


Yes needs to be 3 phase for AGM Odyssey. I"m using these sealed Numax,here-

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NUMAX-895-CXT-Lawn-Mower-Battery-TYPE-895-MINI-TRACTOR-MOWER-RIDE-ON-MOWER/320964614418?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
 
It's generally accepted that AGM batteries are more robust than Gel type for automotive use.  They are less likely to be damaged by vibration and less fussy about charge/discharge.  For that reason AGM are the more popular option if you don't want to use a traditional type of wet battery that needs topping up with distilled water ('flooded cell').

In my opinion, and based on experience, you will not get sufficient voltage output from the original Bosch alternator to fully recharge an AGM battery.  This is regardless of whether or not you replace the original magneto / CDI ignition coil with a second charging coil, which can only be done if you get rid of the original HKZ / CDI ignition.  Typically the absolute maximum DC voltage with a conventional shunt type reg/rect installed is around 14.3v (I've not tried a MOSFET reg/rect with a Bosch alternator - they are more efficient so may see a slightly higher value).  This means that the AGM battery will not fully recharge to its maximum capacity and its life will be shortened.  This issue can be solved by putting the battery on a suitable smart charger (max 14.7v) say once a month - essential if you have an Odyssey.

As previously mentioned, the original factory arrangement of a large capacity 'wet' battery and rectifier worked OK because the weak alternator output meant that the battery would soak up any over charging at higher engine speeds.  The electrolyte bubbled away and needed regular topping up with distilled water.  Sealed batteries do not take kindly to this sort of treatment!  That's why a regulator is added to ensure that the voltage does not exceed 14.5-14.6v.  It's also needed when alternators with larger outputs are fitted.

still don?t see why an AGM battery wouldn?t work with a modern regulator, my impression is that it will recharge at lower rate due to weak generator
Click to expand...
This isn't true because the battery needs to be held at a high charging voltage for its absorption phase - typically 14.5-14.7v.  This is when it goes from 80% charged to fully charged.
[Number of phases doesn't matter....it's the voltage output that does!  Just so happens that the 3 phase Nippon Denso alternator on later triples has greater output which means it can maintain the required voltage too]

 
I always disagree with Rob on these battery issues :LOL:,last thing you need is to be dumped at the side of the road if you"ve not topped up your Odyssey with a C-tek charger on a standard single phase,& easily done,I take Robs point re charging, quite correct on the revs/charging but never had an issue with sealed on a CDI ignition,more in the Mr Bell camp here as he has been using them for yonks.I run an Odyssey on the 120 mainly because it"s a cramped space.Just my piece on it.Maybe I"m living dangerously  ;)I"ll get my coat.
 
I have the original charging system and original diode on mine. Forty-four years plus good service.
I've tried Gel and AGM batteries, despite being much more expensive, not one of them lasted more than a couple of years. Lead acids, on the other hand, have given much longer service. Best so far, a Varta, lasted eight years.
 
last thing you need is to be dumped at the side of the road if you"ve not topped up your Odyssey
Click to expand...
I wasn't recommending an Odyssey for this application Shaun.  Merely trying to indicate what was required for those who do have one fitted!

My preference in this case would be for a conventional wet (flooded cell) battery like Hamish uses, and entirely Miguel's choice re sealed or not since he plans to use a reg/rect.  I know you and Alan use a sealed battery on HKZ bikes without a problem. Each to their own  :D  I've seen the mess after a VRLA battery explodes when overcharged  :o

Oh, and nice that Laverdamania recognise the brilliance of John Wilson's diagrams originally posted here back in 2005 ;)

 
Well I've never liked chemistry or physics.Gave up on lead acid after 4 years service tops with Vartas ,and two failed Odysseys,one nearly putting paid to the 2014 trip to Breganze on the Sprint,when a French argricultural showroom luckily close by in the middle of nowhere put in a ride on battery they had in stock and got me sorted, must be the horticulturalist in me :D. We"ll beg to differ once more,despite the correct science. :D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top