Step by step

motoddrob said:
I do like the fact that Mikunis have overflow hoses so when it does overflow it's on the ground rather than in the well under the starter motor!!
Click to expand...

Same on the Keihins, much safer I feel. The 1000 SFC (and RGS?) carbs had that, too.

Clem: I did not intend to offend you in any way. To my experience though (and I am not saying this is everyones truth), a slightly open float valve makes gas just drip into the cylinders without you ever recognizing, at least on the the Dell'Ortos. This can cause a hydraulic lock if not recognized right away. If there is a serious overflow-issue, you recognize it even on a running bike. Never had the issue on a warm bike, it always happened when the bike was cold after a longer storage. The danger that fuel dripping on top of the engine causes a fire is minimal on a cold engine.

With the Keihins, the only time fuel coming out of the carbs was due to the rubber gaskets at the float-bowles had shrunk due to missing fuel. Sometimes it helps to just leave the carbs with gas in the float bowls in that case and once you want to ride, empty the float bowls first and then open pet cocks to fill them with fresh fuel.

To the Choke: to my experiance, the amount of choke needed has to do with the condition/setting of the carbs and the temperature of the air as well as if the bike is warmed up or cold. Full choke should therefore in my eyes only be needed in very cold conditions. When I do a ride-out, it is typically around 20*C, rarely less. Choke in that case is only needed on my bikes partly and only for a very short period. When I had the Dell'Ortos still on the bike, they were freshly overhauled and set to factory standards; still they only needed roughly half to 2/3 of the choke. Different with the Keihins though, they only start with full choke. That said, you can almost directly put choke back off.



The reason why I use the way of first pushing the start button and then engaging the choke slowly is purely because since I do that (which was recommended to me by another Laverda enthusiast btw.), I never had a spark plug fooled anymore. Before that, I almost could count on at least one cylinder not starting after the bike stood for longer time.

 
I do like the fact that Mikunis have overflow hoses so when it does overflow it's on the ground rather than in the well under the starter motor!!
Click to expand...
So do the Dells fitted to the Yellow Peril, came as standard.
 
Ya might have to change your routine/habit Lothar of turning off taps 500metres from home !
Leave the bowls moist and ya float valve won't stick !

And of course ride more often  ;)
Fresh fool is good for your bike  :D
 
I managed to connect the original intake snorkels with the Mikuni RS36 and the original airbox. The snorkels, however,
are pushed a little further into the airbox.

43927149062_653ed3baa8_c.jpg
 
43975591051_72caf68c47_c.jpg




It did not work without modifications though. I had to take out the rear wall with the filter and position the whole
airbox a bit higher. Thus I will drive the first test kilometers without air filtering.

The main jets seem too big for my brave series engine (130s), I will experiment with smaller ones. Further Lothar
was right ? I found one foul spark plug.

Cheers
Jo
 
.
Yesterday I did the 1st longer ride after the modifications described - on my way back home I took this picture above
Cologne bay (Cologne Cathedral on the horizon):

42188407070_9918a55d1a_c.jpg

8)

As for the Mikuni Carbs: Smaller mains are ordered. Medium term I will install a lambda sensor in the collector to do some
fine tuning on the carb set-up.

Cheers
Jo



 
Last weekend I undrilled the steering lock and installed a new one. Miss two HSS drills since ...

I found a nice period correct Harro 407 tank rucksack on fleabay. The lower foam plate was gone - but there is a company supplying tailored new ones.


Further did some small but important changes:
- adjusted the handlebar in a slightly higher position
- reduced spring preload on the Mikuni operating shaft

The last two measures are a fine step forward. Now man and machine work together much more harmonious.

En route with my mate Bernd and his Rüthing R100S Beemer today:
30662206078_d260e6957b_c.jpg


Ride to Breganze appears within imaginable reach now.
:)

Cheers
Jo
 
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In the process of installing a new 14mm M/C and subsequent bleeding I found one damaged 6mm bleeding
nipple on the RH front outer caliper.

I obtained already another F08 caliper, but it?s the version w/o threads. Not sure if I want install it, or,
continue searching for a correct one.

Cheers
Jo
 
search for the correct one...  ;)

or can't you repair the old one? Maybe Piet from OCT can, he is a magician in terms of mechanics and repairs of threads etc...  what happened - did it snap off or is it just not liquid-tight anymore?
 
The remains of the bleeding nipple stick deep down in the hole. Only way to get those out would be EDM. I did not realize this in
my 1st attempt as the DPO placed a setscrew above to (successfully) seal the entire thing.

EDM, probably welding and time-serting is altogether doable ? but certainly would involve some cost and time.
Searching for a good used one is the 1st route to follow imho.

Cheers
Jo
 
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