Tubeless conversions

martymoose

martymoose

Hero member
Location
Sydney, Australia
Reunited Chris put me onto the 3M extreme sealing tape for converting the 3C wheels to tubeless. This stuff is awesome, no problems for over 25000km. Unfortunately I had to remove it to re spoke the rim after breaking a spoke. The tape is no longer available in 2 meter rolls. You now have to buy 16.5meter rolls, and to order it in, I have to order a whole box, 6 rolls. Out of the question. I have 3 wheels to convert, so the search is on. One suggestion is butyl tape. Has anyone used this? There are tubeless kits available, anyone know what tape they use?
Cheers
Marty
 
Hi Marty,

do you have the part number of it? might be worth checking other locations and shipping costs to Australia (if not already done)
 
How did you go removing it? Many types of tape are either really difficult to get off or they leave a mess of residue. Old gaffer tape for example leaves hard dried glue residue. Maybe there are others on the forum that could go in with you to buy a box.
 
Carb cleaner worked for me, but it takes time to remove all residue.
Outex make a rim sealing tape that looks very similar to the Extreme sealing tape. Worth checking out.
More expensive than a 5m roll of 3M tape but cheaper than buying the amount Marty has been quoted.
 
Could I suggest an assembly line for other interested local owners, that job looks like huge fun. What is it, 20hrs of wheel prep each wheel.
 
There are dozens of methods to do this. Some use tape, some use silicon and tape some use little round stickers over the spokes, and there are high-tech rims with fabricated sealing systems for the spokes that cost thousands.
www.advrider.com

3m 4411n sealing tape tubeless conversion

I am putting this up here, this is a method originally posted in this supermotojunkie.com thread:...
www.advrider.com www.advrider.com
 
After finding out that it is getting extremely hard to buy inner tubes here (head scratching and puzzled look, "inner tube??!!", it is looking more like a necessity than an option.
 
Tippie said:
After finding out that it is getting extremely hard to buy inner tubes here (head scratching and puzzled look, "inner tube??!!", it is looking more like a necessity than an option.
Click to expand...
First I've heard of it.
I've changed 2 tyres over the last 2 months and no problem with tube, including thicker enduro tube which I use.
Paul
 
Pirelli tube made in china was the one that let go on the seam, 6 inch long split and instant deflation at 120km/h around a sweeper. Huge tank slapper and change of underwear needed. Currently using Vee rubber brand made in Thailand
 
I ask for Michelin tubes, no idea where they come from.
When possible, I have thick enduro tubes fitted.
Punctures are a pain. Last month, in a forest in the Meuse, WW1 battlefield and very little mobile phone coverage. My friends repair by the roadside. I'm incapable of doing that.
Paul
1723274769284.jpeg
 
Paul,after suffering a front tubed puncture last week on the way to Willersey we used some of this to repair and inflate the wheel by the roadside.
Worked well and we even managed to get home safely on it 100 ish miles.

On a European trip I generally carry spare tubes with me but funny enough I don't carry the tools in order to change one!......I have now purchased a small self contained tyre compressor (battery operated) and will certainly carry some of this repair foam with me on future trips.
1723275595381.png
 
Paul Marx said:
I ask for Michelin tubes, no idea where they come from.
When possible, I have thick enduro tubes fitted.
Punctures are a pain. Last month, in a forest in the Meuse, WW1 battlefield and very little mobile phone coverage. My friends repair by the roadside. I'm incapable of doing that.
Paul
View attachment 91601
Click to expand...
Interestingly Enduro or Extra thick inner tubes are not recommended for road use due to excessive heat build up. Thicker will not resist a puncture by nail or thorn any better but will be more resistant to rim pinching when running low pressure off road. Laverda are heavy with narrow, heavy carcass tyres so heat build up could be a factor. I’m not going to tempt fate by recalling my last puncture but I have never had a front puncture but in my work I have fixed one front for every hundred rear punctures- which I find odd because you must ride over the nail with the front wheel? I have removed an engineers scriber, a broken fox bone and half a set of nail clippers from punctured tyres and also found a tyre lever inside one! I have used Continental inner tubes and they seem good .
 
The only thing we could find after a very scary fast front puncture was a very hard petrified rubber rim tape. It was as hard as glass and very sharp and must have sliced the tube somehow. I had just ridden Wotan Way, which used to be a part of the National Highway 1 that was known as The Bulladela Bends. About 30ks of linked 35kph bends that I had hit pretty hard. About 5 minutes later at 110kph, I noticed the bike suddenly become very slow steering and was trying to decide whether I should pull over when the bike started weaving savagely. The front brake made it much worse and lucky easing on the rear brake managed to not crash and get to the side of the expressway.
 
We used two cans of that puncture repair stuff in Geir`s rear tyre on the way back from Breganze without luck, which you need if that stuff will work but definitely worth a try and it has saved me before. That rear Michelin on his bike was the hardest stiffest bastard of a tyre I have almost ever seen, and it wasn't even a cold day, I would have really struggled with the job even had I had three big strong levers, my big rubber mallet and some soapy stuff as well as a pump. Tubeless most often repair with a plug, and they virtually never suffer blow-out apparently. Less weight into the bargain. Will be my choice from now on.
 
No way I'll be riding with enduro tubes. Might be ok for cruising along enjoying the scenery but not if you enjoy getting stuck into it. I'm running tubes in my 17 inch Sportmaxes but might have to consider the tubeless conversion. I've avoided it on my road bicycle because I don't fancy having a tubeless tyre that has flatted out in the middle of nowhere (eg today up in the Streszleckis) and possibly can't be inflated to seal against the rim. Have had a MTB tyre in the shop workshop that simply would not inflate, even with a compressor and every trick thrown at it.
 
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