Alzero
Hero member
- Location
- DaNang Vietnam
That in conjunction with forced air climate control would allow desert touring for another 100 years.
Wet Gloves
- Thread starter Vince
- Start date
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Once everything is soaked, the question is a moot point.
Shajota
Hero member
- Location
- Whitsundays Qld
I think Marty had some bark busters on his GT (
) triple. Seemed like a good idea for long trips in varying conditions as long as you had some sort of higher bars.......I have a set of Barkbusters with the Storm plastic covers on my Atlas, I was surprised at how many different Barkbuster Alloy bends they make, Invented in Australia. Never broke a clutch or brake lever or purch since I fitted them on off-road bikes I have owned and that's got to be 30 years. I have a set of Hippo Hands as well but they won't fit with the Storm plastic as well. They make smaller versions of Barkbusters with weather deflectors for Road bikes if you're keen. Its funny how the only smaller fairings that have weather protection for your hands are the BMW Twin from the R90S, nobody else thinks of that.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Pannier mounts made and fitted, bags on and ready to head off to Breganze! Oh ... 
... I must have been dreaming. but in the spirit of the 75th I've prepped the SFQ for serious road use. No idea when I'll get to try it out on a long tour, but at least now the work's done.
... I must have been dreaming. but in the spirit of the 75th I've prepped the SFQ for serious road use. No idea when I'll get to try it out on a long tour, but at least now the work's done.Attachments
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Should do the trick, Vince. Light but three mounting points should make it strong and vibration-proof - for when I ride the Gibb River Road or the Tanami Track 
Nice, and keeping the weight off the rear loop.Pannier mounts made and fitted, bags on and ready to head off to Breganze! Oh ...
Paul
rocketonarail
Hero member
- Location
- Gloucestershire,England
Don`t mind wet gloves so much , or wet feet come to that , apart from the squelching / sucking noise as you walk along ........
........ It`s a wet crutch ( crotch ? ) that makes me most miserable ......... a seam is sooner or later going to leak ...... why do over-trouser manufacturers position one where it`s going to cause maximum discomfort ? ......
........ It`s a wet crutch ( crotch ? ) that makes me most miserable ......... a seam is sooner or later going to leak ...... why do over-trouser manufacturers position one where it`s going to cause maximum discomfort ? ......
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Bottler
Full member
- Location
- Bungendore, Australia
Hi PB2,Pannier mounts made and fitted, bags on and ready to head off to Breganze! Oh ...
I have the same pannier bags fitted to my V85TT, attached to SW Motech Pro universal carriers that can be detached in minutes. Works a treat. Haven't come up with a system to attach said bags to the Jota but your system is food for thought.
Cheers
Bottler
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
I needed to find a way to both secure the bags and keep them away from the Nitrons and the sides of the SFC-style seat. If I still had my original double seat on I'd just strap stuff on there.
The tricky bit was that there was only the one easily accessible mounting point on each side: the fwd shock mounts. The other two come from underneath, one from the original shock mount (with an insert that takes the 12mm hole down to 6mm) and the underside of the rearmost mudguard mount (I made one piece that curves under the guard and then out and up).
I retained the original SF rear frame hoop to give strength and stability to the seat, which also helps control the vibes - I've determined that a 270 crank shifts the 'angle' of vibration rearward at what feels like 45 degree. Although stock SFs all suffer potential breakage of the rear hoop - I reinforced mine with solid rod about 40 years ago when it cracked through. When I travelled around Oz back in the 70s I had steel braces bolted to the pillion pegs and a steel hoop from shock mount to shock mount around the back of the seat and 20 litre plastic jerry cans converted to panniers - looked very 'purposeful'! I had amazed comments about what my fuel range must have been
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I was actually thinking it looks a little under-designed. But I tend to over-design luggage racks and pannier frames so you could pretty much build a house on top of it.
Quentin is obviously a very capable person and smart enough to have considered the loads it'll be carrying. His panniers aren't massive great solid things, so it's probably more than fit for purpose.
I've got into trouble before for suggesting there might be a better way to do things, so I'll not give any advice unless it's requested.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Bag weight is actually all taken by the hump of the seat, Cam. The two bags are connected by strong flaps vecroed one to the other. The frame I made really just keeps them to away from the shockers and offers something to secure them to - I haven't sorted out the best way to do that yet - probably just some short velcro straps. If they were hanging from the mounts I'd have made them far more solid and heavy doodie.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
Hi Q. Yes, I suspected that was the case. Are you not concerned about the bags wearing the paint off the seat hump? I guess if the bag flaps have a soft underside it'll be OK. I'd also consider some kind of back-up for the Velcro that holds the bags together, but perhaps the black straps do that job.
I've had a few failures of luggage racks and pannier frames, but it's always been "off the shelf" items that I've bought. It's a tough life for bike luggage systems, usually cantilevered off the back of the bike and getting subjected to repeated shock loading. If there's a weakness, it doesn't take long for the bouncing and vibration to find it. I can't recall any failures with racks I've built myself, but as I mentioned before I tend to go overboard with rigidity, usually at the expense of weight. I often use materials like thick-walled pipe and solid bar. Weight has never been much of a consideration. Lightness is good, but not if your luggage ends up falling off.
I have a slightly quirky way of assessing whether a luggage rack is strong enough. If you can attach a crane hook to it and lift the bike off the ground, without damage to the rack, then it'll probably be strong enough. In most cases it's not practical to actually apply that test procedure, but it's a useful guide to bear in mind when designing a rack.
I just proof read my typing above. The bit about flaps and soft underside has left an opening for Chrisk to make a bawdy joke.
I've had a few failures of luggage racks and pannier frames, but it's always been "off the shelf" items that I've bought. It's a tough life for bike luggage systems, usually cantilevered off the back of the bike and getting subjected to repeated shock loading. If there's a weakness, it doesn't take long for the bouncing and vibration to find it. I can't recall any failures with racks I've built myself, but as I mentioned before I tend to go overboard with rigidity, usually at the expense of weight. I often use materials like thick-walled pipe and solid bar. Weight has never been much of a consideration. Lightness is good, but not if your luggage ends up falling off.
I have a slightly quirky way of assessing whether a luggage rack is strong enough. If you can attach a crane hook to it and lift the bike off the ground, without damage to the rack, then it'll probably be strong enough. In most cases it's not practical to actually apply that test procedure, but it's a useful guide to bear in mind when designing a rack.
I just proof read my typing above. The bit about flaps and soft underside has left an opening for Chrisk to make a bawdy joke.
Alzero
Hero member
- Location
- DaNang Vietnam
A patch of clear adhesive stone chip protector on the seat hump will do the job.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
After I tested the mag tank bag on a 500km ride and didn't like the way it moved around I sought out some rubberised netting from the fabulous Clark Rubber (man, I love that place - have been able to solve so many quirky probs through them - I just hope it never disappears due to falling trade). I've got plenty left over for the hump seat. The good thing about the netting is that it conforms to the shape of the hump (which is flattish on top as well). If any signs of abrasion still appear I've got a bit of lambswool I can try out. There are plenty of strong cordura hoops inside the bags to get the bags nice and firmly attached to my lightweight 'works' frames. 
There aree also 4 hefty D-rings on each flap so I could employ those, but really, the velcro attachments are as strong as (and stress is lateral).
My old jerry can panniers and steel frames lasted a round-Oz trip in the 70s, back when many hundreds of km of dirt, bulldust, corrugations and general goat track conditions. I've still got them but can't see me needing them again - at least not until I'm too old to need them again!
There aree also 4 hefty D-rings on each flap so I could employ those, but really, the velcro attachments are as strong as (and stress is lateral).My old jerry can panniers and steel frames lasted a round-Oz trip in the 70s, back when many hundreds of km of dirt, bulldust, corrugations and general goat track conditions. I've still got them but can't see me needing them again - at least not until I'm too old to need them again!