What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Kinda like that BSA Tiger Bar onna 750 SF but the Honda CB 750 Bar was STD and Tiger bar was great onna Triumph 250 Scrambler.

Some Yamaha bars (Specifically the 450's) where the same but you had to cut them down to length and they didn't have the useless hole in the right hand for whatever electrics.

For that matter you can defile a Yamaha 2 Cly 4 Stroke CDI Ignition to fit our 750 SF's.

To tell you the truth I have never had problems with the Breganzie point system as long as you keep them adjusted and clean.

There are a few minor tricks to keep the points from denigrating and that is to use Amphoric Gasket on the case and drill a small hole in the bottom of the case for moisture to drain out off the cover.

In other words keep the points dry after you have washed her. You might need a little alcohol swab and a fine file to sharpen the points with a shot of Rust Check.
 
Thanks for the tips on the bars guys. The ones I have just fitted are photogrphed without adjustment after riding. They will surely end up rotated flatter than they are. Changing the bars uncovered some 'imaginative-solution' wiring issues, into which Class-A drugs were surely a contibutor. This delayed the test run, so when I have ridden/adjusted we will see what can be achieved. The bars were free, so if unsuitable at least they will provide shape info. I'm off to the Classic Bike show on Stafford (UK) soon so even better shaped bars can be got there if required, all shapes and sizes.  The Semi-Western shape looks comfy, I'll check em out.

Next thing to do to get the bike to fit me will be to trim of a little bit from the footpeg length - i.e. width. Can't get on with it when foot-down at junctions.

By the way, 'Semi-Westrn Bar' on google gets you into a whole new world of gay scence mountach trimming. Think Village People.
 
Paul H said:
By the way, 'Semi-Westrn Bar' on google gets you into a whole new world of gay scence mountach trimming. Think Village People.
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:o.  The places that Laverda ownership can take you ...  :D
 
Had a cracking ride out on Sunday to Bury hill which is a Local-ish meeting point in West Sussex (UK) a trio of bikes,myself on the Jota,a P&M GPz racer and a retro XJR1300...so all very different.......the Jota was superb on the open road and felt like thundering horses under you,now just over 700 miles under my belt and i love it  :D

here's a little snap shot


 
Would be a bit worried about that long haired yahoo lurking in the background, just above the Jota's seat :-[
 
Finally finished the paint on my gusseted frame and got the engine in with the assistance of my son. Rear wheel back on and now starting to look like a bike again. Next job is to pull the forks apart, put in some new seals, the new Racetech seals and springs and then get the front back on with the Brembo 4 pots that have been sitting patiently in a box for a couple of years.
 
Noticed the side-stand was a bit slow to retract on yesterday's ride. Dismantled, cleaned, greased and put back together this morning. Got to keep on top of the little things ;)
 
Chalkie said:
Dropped my engine off at Laverda Soczia for Keith to give it the works.

Time to start saving!

Worth it

Cheers
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Ill give you a clue. Dropped mine off a year ago only just got to the front of the queue. But yes, will be worth every not inconsiderable penny.

FFFANARCHY
 
Nothing actually, but manufactured a tool on my metal lathe for changing valve guides to BMW K100/K75 engines to be overhauled at the moment. Handle section was not machined because there was no little bit thicker bar on stock to that purpose at the moment, and therefore is not made to higher standards required for Laverda tools ;)

Just got it manufactured and wondered if it is also suitable to Laverda triples, didn't thought that earlier to make the same tool to fit if possible. I don't remember dimensions for Laverda triple valve guides, length of the guide and suitable biggest diameter for the tool. But not actually even needed at the moment.
 

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MotoJouni said:
Nothing actually, but manufactured a tool on my metal lathe for changing valve guides to BMW K100/K75 engines to be overhauled at the moment. Handle section was not machined because there was no little bit thicker bar on stock to that purpose at the moment, and therefore is not made to higher standards required for Laverda tools ;)

Just got it manufactured and wondered if it is also suitable to Laverda triples, didn't thought that earlier to make the same tool to fit if possible. I don't remember dimensions for Laverda triple valve guides, length of the guide and suitable biggest diameter for the tool. But not actually even needed at the moment.
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Can't see from pic, but I made mine (twin guides, similar seal section to triples) so a recessed section fits over the fragile top section where the seals fit - this avoids damaging that thin section when hammering them in. Can also be a sleeve that fits over the std type punch.
 
Piranha Brother 2 said:
Can't see from pic, but I made mine (twin guides, similar seal section to triples) so a recessed section fits over the fragile top section where the seals fit - this avoids damaging that thin section when hammering them in. Can also be a sleeve that fits over the std type punch.
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Good point. This tool alone is to take the old ones out. Must take more dimensions when I got some valve guides on hand to make suitable sleeves for hammering new ones in. Earlier we used propane/butane torch to heat up cylinder heads, but that needed a lot of attention. Now I have an electric oven to that purpose.
 
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