What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Aus obviously differs from the UK
which can have distribution steam lines in screwed iron (but not with malleable fittings) as well as welded iron, pressures are generally restricted at boiler house exit, condensate lines (returns) were in my lifetime done in table 1 copper (which is threaded as well, not many around who can still do that!) later they were still in copper (table 3 then table X) but with silver soldered gunmetal fittings, today both stream and condense are being installed in thin wall stainless with hydraulic crimped fittings and ....but blow dows in seamless??? why???
LPHW central heating of almost any bore size is being installed in thermic welded plastic and for domestic use push fit plastic.

No wonder I have got 4 tons of pipework screwing, bending, welding plant that is now worthless, I was asked to bend a piece of heavy barrel the other day and couldn't even find the bender! (it is beyond reach in a corner of a shed full of 60 tons of scaffold piled in front of it)

CLEM
 
Getting back on thread ... (Reckon we need a separate topic, "Gas and Steam Pipe Engineering" ...  :P)

Checked the clearances, adjusted the cam chain ...

I've never been prepared so early for a meet (Breganze).  What could possibly go wrong?  :-\  :o
 
CLEMTOG said:
No wonder I have got 4 tons of pipework screwing, bending, welding plant that is now worthless, I was asked to bend a piece of heavy barrel the other day and couldn't even find the bender! (it is beyond reach in a corner of a shed full of 60 tons of scaffold piled in front of it)
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FFS, Clem!  Call in the scrappers, why don't you!  You don't wanna be going leaving all that to your hard-working heirs to clear up!

Or maybe you do .... ?  ::)

And there's sure to be a bit of money in them there useless, rusting piles of ..., no?

See in Breganze, btw  :-*

Craig
 
CLEMTOG said:
Aus obviously differs from the UK
which can have distribution steam lines in screwed iron (but not with malleable fittings) as well as welded iron, pressures are generally restricted at boiler house exit, condensate lines (returns) were in my lifetime done in table 1 copper (which is threaded as well, not many around who can still do that!) later they were still in copper (table 3 then table X) but with silver soldered gunmetal fittings, today both stream and condense are being installed in thin wall stainless with hydraulic crimped fittings and ....but blow dows in seamless??? why???
LPHW central heating of almost any bore size is being installed in thermic welded plastic and for domestic use push fit plastic.

No wonder I have got 4 tons of pipework screwing, bending, welding plant that is now worthless, I was asked to bend a piece of heavy barrel the other day and couldn't even find the bender! (it is beyond reach in a corner of a shed full of 60 tons of scaffold piled in front of it)

CLEM
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We had boiler (x 2) annual inspections and the inspector found a section of blowdown line had been replaced with a gal elbow, he hit the roof and would not sign boiler off until replaced with seamless pipe and fittings.

We had a few boilers in Australia blow just before that time, one (a little 250hp CB) killed 6 people in a factory and rules and regulations became very stringent after that.

Anyway, I like the look of the bitsa.
 
Just completing a three day soak of citric acid to clean rust from the fuel tank, a fish tank heater + sunshine seem to be working well as I can now see shiny steel through the filler hole. I'll give it a bi carb soak afterwards to ensure the reaction is stopped.  Tiptop!
  I had another hard lesson while servicing the other bike, the plastic funnel I was using to fill the engine oil, shattered at the small end, dropping several large pieces of plastice into the engine! Needing a strip down of the clutch side, three casings, 25 quids worth of gaskets and two days wasted, all due to a 50p crappy funnel, bugger!
 
Bigfeesh said:
Just completing a three day soak of citric acid to clean rust from the fuel tank, a fish tank heater + sunshine seem to be working well as I can now see shiny steel through the filler hole. I'll give it a bi carb soak afterwards to ensure the reaction is stopped.  Tiptop!
  I had another hard lesson while servicing the other bike, the plastic funnel I was using to fill the engine oil, shattered at the small end, dropping several large pieces of plastice into the engine! Needing a strip down of the clutch side, three casings, 25 quids worth of gaskets and two days wasted, all due to a 50p crappy funnel, bugger!
Click to expand...
Sheesh! Must be totally shite quality plastic! It used to be flexible stuff for anything like a funnel - I wonder where the brittle nasty was made???!!!
 
Ventodue said:
I've never been prepared so early for a meet (Breganze).  What could possibly go wrong?  :-\  :o
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And the answer wasn't a long time a-coming ...  :P

400 kms yesterday, back brake m/c seal failed.  So in the, "Irritating, but not drastic", category  :)

eGrygxkH5H.jpg

 
I took my bike for a quick spin today, 3 weeks after my hernia rebuild, that blew out after 8 years (not covered under warranty)

It wasn?t pleasant. I think the SFC type seating position is not very kind to my internals, yet. FFS, I have about 800K?s to kill with JohnK this weekend  :(
 
Maybe a Kidney belt might help support you. when I was a kid comedians used to joke about something called a Truss, whatever the hell that is. Dainese does a combination back protector kidney belt that I used on the Dirtbikes, really comfy with great support.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxKxd2LJC8g
 
So in preparation for a trip to Dijon later in the month i manufactured and fitted my new sat nav mounting bracket to the Jota,using the existing fairing mounting points i'm rather pleased with how it looks and sits.

Three of us are planning to visit the Coupes moto legende event,2 on laverdas and hopefully all being well we will be able to join in with the Laverda 70th celebrations and take part in the parade lap.

Our first euro trip on the bikes it is sure to be an adventure!

Schurmy

 

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Thats look smart !  8)

- have changed the O ring in the bottom or the reservoir on Joan Collins today  - thanks to Paddy for sending one in double quick time and Mr B for telling me i did'nt have to bleed it again which is a slight faff 
 

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Vince said:
Maybe a Kidney belt might help support you. when I was a kid comedians used to joke about something called a Truss, whatever the hell that is. Dainese does a combination back protector kidney belt that I used on the Dirtbikes, really comfy with great support.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yxKxd2LJC8g
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Vince the cut me open right in the area where the elastic top of my undies sit. No kidney belt is going to help there. Been going Comando for three weeks  :LOL:
 
Checked the bike out for the big ride next weekend and found the usual, only one horn working. I touch the horn and they should vibrate hard when working. So its the usual water in the horn trick. Pulled the bolts, pissed off the rivots years ago and sandpapered the points. You need to back off the Philips head sound adjuster screw to get enough room for the sandpaper so hopefully, it will work with this screw nipped up. Yep, there was the usual teaspoon of water inside. So tomorrow with the help of a third hand to hold the horn button down while I adjust the Philips' head on the back of the horn I will again have 2 working horns.
 
Vince said:
So tomorrow with the help of a third hand to hold the horn button down while I adjust the Philips' head on the back of the horn I will again have 2 working horns.
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If you can't recruit a third hand, just bridge the horns to an earth somewhere. That's all the horn button does - provide a path to earth.

The way I do it is to tweak the screw and then give the horn a try, then tweak again. You can pretty quickly zero in on a good setting.
 
My third hand is busy so I guess I will be balancing it on the knee connected while twiddling away. Will disconnect its brother for some peace while at it. The front brake light was MIA as well AGAIN. I don't want to replace its spade connections but it's looking like this creeping corrosion just keeps coming back. I really like a fully and permanently functioning brake light.
 
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