What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

So I did my horn thing and zip, nada, nyet. So I pull the 6 tiny bolts out again without my especially hidden and now missing reading glasses, now borrowed and in the same place as the other missing 6 pairs of missing reading glasses, my interesting living situation. Spare me. And I repeat the horn job expecting a similar crap result. And buggar me it worked and scared me good when it did. So now I have 2 working horns and to boot a front brake light, but no reading glasses. That's the next job.
 
First run out, need a new battery or increase in size, been sharing it with the other bike since the motobatt died, other than that all good after a fuel tank descale, Redax alternator next.
 
Vince said:
So I did my horn thing and zip, nada, nyet. So I pull the 6 tiny bolts out again without my especially hidden and now missing reading glasses, now borrowed and in the same place as the other missing 6 pairs of missing reading glasses, my interesting living situation. Spare me. And I repeat the horn job expecting a similar crap result. And buggar me it worked and scared me good when it did. So now I have 2 working horns and to boot a front brake light, but no reading glasses. That's the next job.
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Vince


I?ll give you my spare pair if you can fix my horns..


Yogi
 
Ok, but don't bother with the spare pair, happy to try. The trick is getting them to me in my stay in Sydney window. The hard bit is dramaling or drilling the rivet heads off and not doing damage. BTW the rivet counters really like those actual rivets, so we stay stoom ok. I will give it a go but no guarantees, the internal rust can kill them. It's great to save an original bit, they make a few different styles and its good to keep them matched, plus replacements are $100 or so. Twice was enough, I know who owes me a set but I have bucklys doing that.
 
Yogi give this a quick try first, pull a horn and try turning the big Philips head on the back while pushing the button. A couple or 3 turns either way. Who knows, that might work. If it doesn't then step 2 will proceed.
 
Vince said:
Ok, but don't bother with the spare pair, happy to try. The trick is getting them to me in my stay in Sydney window. The hard bit is dramaling or drilling the rivet heads off and not doing damage. BTW the rivet counters really like those actual rivets, so we stay stoom ok. I will give it a go but no guarantees, the internal rust can kill them. It's great to save an original bit, they make a few different styles and its good to keep them matched, plus replacements are $100 or so. Twice was enough, I know who owes me a set but I have bucklys doing that.
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Thanks Vince - some bloke gave me two sets of rivets for horns...



 
fairing off TOG yesterday, re routed the throttle cable, and I still find the action too heavy, it must be the Dells and the fact that I have been using the Pan European a lot lately, I might buy and install the softest springs .....Padddy?..... coupled with my single cylinder Mikuni equipped 350 AJS, I must be getting old, also re-routed the factory original speedo cable, so that it cannot connect with the oil cooler/engine panel on heavy braking, fairing back on, I then cooked the Kawasaki side stand and bent it back to its original shape after a ham fisted ferry "stevedore" cranked the ratchet strap up a few more clicks after I had departed and bent the thing so as to make it sit too far over when in use, a little paint and all will be well again, fitted stainless horn blades from Andy Wag to replace the broken steel ones, stainless? its more brittle than steel and a lot softer, which people disbelieve because its quite hard to drill, not sure if this is the way to go, but the horns are back on, I never use them anyway apart from obtaining the MOT, which because the bike is registered 1980 and manufactured 1979 might even be the last one!
CLEM
 
Had one of those stainless horn mountings break.
Luckily, horns are lockwired.

I was wondering about carb springs, now I have a lighter clutch with The DAM kit.

I seem to remember you can cut a bit off the original springs?

Paul
 
I have cut them down in the past Paul, TOG now uses RGS type carbs (the originals are still here) and I didn't change the springs from stock, helped out on the dyno a bit with re-assurance that closing is closing, but for sure the action is too stiff. Cut down springs are not ideal as the "as manufactured" ones have a full and closed circle of wire at both ends, when you nip a bit of it leave a sharp and damaging end, without the full circle of wire, either top or bottom, this didn't seem to cause any problems in her former life however, softer springs will be the starter, and even then they may get cut down, the lighter the better, makes for much more enjoyable riding.
CLEM
 
Today I took my S1 Jota for a big day ride out to the Sth Australian border around the Grampians and back 550 miles in the worst conditions heavy rain all day and a top of 13 degrees brrrr.
Old Jota never missed a beat although the brakes didn't go that well in the rain :o :o :o :o :o
 
maurice turner said:
Today I took my S! 3CL for a big day ride out to the Sth Australian border around the Grampians and back 550 miles in the worst conditions heavy rain all day and a top of 13 degrees brrrr.
Old 3CL never missed a beat although the brakes didn't go that well in the rain :o :o :o :o :o
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Fixed and well done son top effort proud of you  :o 
 
It was dry and sunny for the first 10 minutes and that was it, but you know what Cam it was still great to get out there!!!!!
I noticed that heaps of the smaller regional towns no longer have attended petrol stations or any petrol at all, not ideal on a Jota with the throttle open wide!!!
 
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