What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

On a 40-50 yo Laverda I can see no benefit in replacing an axial caliper with a radial caliper. Can anyone on here honestly say they apply their brakes so hard that they can feel the calipers or the caliper mounts flexing???!!! I run an USD Yamaha fork with axial mount R1 calipers. I can easily get the rear wheel airborne but as for flex? Don't think so.

The other issue mentioned is weight - throw in adapters to get radials to fit axial forks and you quickly lose the advantage. Inagree with the comment that power and feel are mostly in the M/cyl. By all means spend your moula, but don't expect any revelations.
 
I went whole hog on brakes as my bike had issues, said ussue turned out to be a wear-formed ridge on the contact patch where the piston touches the hand brake lever, causing a sudden jerking application, 2 minutes with a file could have saved me probably $1200. The std brake rebuilt with good modern pads, braided lines and clean discs is pretty good. Sure, they can be improved. Spend your money if you want.
 
In an interview Jeremy Burgess (of Rossi fame) laughed that radial calipers were being fitted to road bikes, he said the only reason they were developed was so that disc size on the race bikes could be easily and quickly changed, said there was absolutely no advantage braking wise. All the newest stuff is radial now, but good "conventional" ones are still easy to find.
 
The standard Brembos on my '74 are powerful enough to just about lock the wheel. Enough force to stress steering head - frame area. Plenty have had cracks appear. RGS's more so. Could it be the additional weight? So if one wants even more 'braking power' then best get the area in question addressed. Gussets welded in...
 
I think if you read the post from Jacques more closely you’ll find that he’s referring to the cnc’d axial 30/34 brembos that a lot of us use. Also when he talks a bout calipers flex it was in relation to a car 🤭 I’ve had a few message exchanges with Jacques and he’s creating a rather unique sfc 1000 . Always searching for a lighter weight on the sfc instead of more horsepower can yield similar results😎
Tom
 
My mistake, Tom - well spotted. I thought Jacques was asking about radial mount Brembos vs axial and the comparative stiffness of each. As for lightweight adapters for 4-spots, I'd be far more concerned about strength than weight. Nothing wrong with Ti fasteners - I've had crappy ones that I didn't use and excellent quality ones - Taiwanese stuff tends to be very good. Pro Bolt is top notch but very expensive. I use R1 caliper bolts - really nice drilled M10. I could see no reason to swap them out for Ti.
 
Here is a very bad video.First start filled the shop with smoke as i had put oil into the cylinders to lube it, whilst turning it over to check for oil at cam,not been running after many years, i havnt played with the carbs much yet after cleaning,so not sure how its going to run, i need a better / bigger fan so i can run longer in the shop.


View attachment Start.mp4
 
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Off to The Hollyville Cafe for breakfast, this morning.
Shame that the numbers have never recovered, post-covid.
There used to be a lot of interesting bikes there on a Sunday morning.
😔


Hollyville 2026 04 26 01.jpgHollyville 2026 04 26 02.jpgHollyville 2019 08 18 1.JPGHollyville 2020 09 20 05.JPG
 
I'd better be a little more specific then.
So, I am constantly building on my Laverda. Slowly, but steadily. That is just how it is. Also, my friend Peder is good on a cnc machine etc. so that helps.
I have earlier on tried for example a Duc 888 sp2 I think it was, with said axial Brembo P4 30/34 cnc'ed calipers, the version with titanium bolts. They were a good solution. No flex that I could feel anyway. Good brakes. And a light bike, but a terrible engine. So, there used to be an even harder version, the monobloc cnc'ed 32/36 piston sized caliper, and I'd like to buy those, but they are seriously hard to come by. So for now, the axial cnc 30/34 with titanium bolts will do fine. I do use Brembo pads that are wayyyy better, which is the blue version carbon ceramic pads.
To get back a little in time, here's a short recap of my front brake experience on both my former RGS and my present day SFC. Always new DOT 4 every year. No air inside.

1/: all standard Brembo RGS1000 old black cast 2-piston calipers with edges for plastic caps. New aluminium pistons and seals installed by me. Standard old black axial brake master. Rebuilt. Braided lines, standard Brembo pads. Standard black Brembo brake contact divider mid way. Works. But honestly, I had to press really hard to brake hard. And in my humble view, if you press really hard, you loose some feel. All on 280mm bolted discs, so let's call them semi-floating. Works, but in my honest view, inadequate. Also heavy. As in super heavy complete. The bells being aluminium is lighter of course, than the RGA fully cast iron discs I also tried.

2/: all standard SFC1000 old goldline 2-piston axial calipers and the same master as before. Lighter calipers. Braided lines. Still with original brake stop light thingie mid way. 300mm Brembo Goldline fully floating front brake discs with the correct black bobbins.
Better than the RGS1000 setup. I then went to better pads and it became a little bit better. Still lack of feel and a sort of slow response.

3/: as nr. 2, but at this time my SFC1000 is down 21,984 Kilo lighter. That affects brake performance somewhat to be a little more efficient. Hence why I usually don't fill up the gas tank fully.

4/: as nr. 3, but this time with a RGS Corsa rear brake disc to aid for lightness and potential heat warping, which of course will never happen on the rear. Also, installed special made better stronger black bobbins, so no funny wear. Same front brake. Just the same feel and performance at the front.

5/: as nr. 4, but this time with new 300mm Brembo Goldline front discs, later design with is significantly lighter. Still no slop anywhere. Same performance.

6/: as nr. 5, but this time with new Brembo Goldline brake master (and similar clutch master) aka Duc 916. This in combination with the newer axial 4-piston P4 30/34 cast Brembo Goldline brake calipers on quality cnc'ed Brembo brackets. Worked really well. Better brake performance, better feel. Lighter still, bracket or not. Much more secure to operate. The piston diameter on the Goldline clutch master is sub optimal, but I could not get any other dimensions. So, a little resistance in releasing the clutch. Not a lot, just a tiny bit. The brake performance in all aspects, were a revelation in comparison. It is a different world. Took the old brake light switch out, apart and cleaned it. Oh, the brake light worked again.
Highly recommended upgrade overall. Small reservoir for front brake master, not he big one.

7/: As nr. 6, but this time I installed new brake- and clutch masters again, also Brembo Goldline, but this time a few more steps up the ladder. So they are the racing cnc, just under the full GP race version, but over the CorteCorsa radial version, both masters now radial. Lower weight still. Grey anodising over the cnc'ed bodies. Combined with Brembo carbon ceramic pads, blue again. A bit boring to look at, but way better, in that the brakes are now with better performance and better feel, so easier to dosate. Lesser risk of a locked front wheel. This also transformed the clutch and gearchange, to be super improved and better. No more rolling a bit from time to time, to find neutral. Super upgrade. I really recommend those masters. Also, small reservoir for the new front brake master, not the big one. I also dumped the brackets. Too heavy.

And this is where I am today. Frame upgrades, fork crown upgrades, stiffer lighter and beefier, plus a lot more weight saving coming. I have lot's of parts I didn't even install since the 22 kilo weight saving was reached. But is has to look somewhat original, not a completely changed bike.
My wish for the front brakes are possibly the 320mm version of the exact same front brake discs, very hard to get by now, and I do have extra 2 set new 300 versions plus the new ones I installed are like new. I also have extra fully floating Corsa rear disc, but I would like to stiffen and lighten the front calipers, as well as get a better working and lighter one on the rear, plus make a bearing system, so the momentum arm can actually do it's job in relation to suspension travel, rather than be a look a like as it is from factory.
Optimally, I would like the 32/36mm cnc'ed monobloc axial ones on the front, but cannot find them, hence my question if anyone have experience with the step down, the 30/34mm split axial cnc version with ti fasteners. If I have to change the bolts myself, I will, but I will of course not buy chinese I-don't-know-what-they-are-made-of-bolts, but probolt. I changed a lot of bolts on my Lotus Esprit, and they are strong enough and super nice made for some applications. Also, when I use titanium on my Laverda for parts, I use 6Al/4V also known as grade 5, not the softer more flexier 3Al/2,5V grade 9. I do have experience with titanium for more than 26 years on bikes, bicycles and cars. I also race titanium bicycle frames.
When I said I feel flex in the big 4 piston AP Racing brake calipers I have on my Lotus, I mean that. They are not stiff enough for serious use. I use 322mm x 36mm floating ventilated discs on aluminium bells on all 4 wheels. Cool air ducts for all corners, braided hoses, upgraded master. Only DOT 4 fluid. Renewed every year and also before any track day or similar. My Lotus is also lighter, at 1119 Kilo and a LOT more saving is on the way. I spent 6 years making the optimal tailgate. So my Esprit is a one off factory special plus my mods. I only use soft Summer rubber and in 315/30-18 size, so original and legal. All have to be legal, as I don't want any trouble with the authorities, who are super strict in my country. Boy racers are confiscated and sold. You won't get a dime, but instead a havy fine. So weight is not the factor here. I experiment with pads, frame stiffening and much more. The calipers are the problem, but I will keep them for now, as they are the original Lotus Esprit versions and a special race dept version on the rear. The rears are stiff enough, as they are cnc'ed. The front ones are cast. Hence my comment and wish for cnc'ed front ones for my Laverda.
Oaky, so that was my background on brakes on my Laverda. So, if anyone have some experiences with the axial Brembo Goldline P4-30/34 cnc and with titan bolts, please let me hear about it. And if anyone have a set for sale, I'll buy them but they have to be in good shape. Seals doesn't matter as I renew new.
The reduction of around ½ a kilo of unsprung weight also appeals a lot to me. I cannot tell the exact number, as I don't have them (yet).
Cheers,
Jacques
 
A lot of work and money gone into your projects, Jacques. Sounds like fun! Always finding improvements is very rewarding. From my reading the biggest improvement you achieved was simply changing the size of the m/cylinder bore - and that seems to be mirrored by the many owners on here who have gone that route.

Personally, once Ive reached the point where I can lift the rear wheel under brakes with good feel using only a couple of fingers, I don't need any more power. If the feel and power are there any talk of flex is well beyond my ability to discern. Nearly all my mods have to be done to a budget - simple fact of life. The pre-owned parts on my bike - Sumitomo blue spot monobloc Yamaha R1 calipers, R1 hybrid radial Brembo m/cyl from a later Yamaha R1, 320 Brembo semi-floating discs from a 998 Ducati - probably cost me less than one of your master cylinders. I'd probably choose different bits and pieces if I'd won the lottery, but this setup does exactly what I want it to do.

I also use Ti fasteners, the important stuff I make sure is high quality - not all Taiwanese Ti is soft and cheesy, but I have had stuff that is definitely not up to scratch.

Always enjoy reading about your upgrades!
 
redfox said:
I'd better be a little more specific then.
So, I am constantly building on my Laverda. Slowly, but steadily. That is just how it is. Also, my friend Peder is good on a cnc machine etc. so that helps.
I have earlier on tried for example a Duc 888 sp2 I think it was, with said axial Brembo P4 30/34 cnc'ed calipers, the version with titanium bolts. They were a good solution. No flex that I could feel anyway. Good brakes. And a light bike, but a terrible engine. So, there used to be an even harder version, the monobloc cnc'ed 32/36 piston sized caliper, and I'd like to buy those, but they are seriously hard to come by. So for now, the axial cnc 30/34 with titanium bolts will do fine. I do use Brembo pads that are wayyyy better, which is the blue version carbon ceramic pads.
To get back a little in time, here's a short recap of my front brake experience on both my former RGS and my present day SFC. Always new DOT 4 every year. No air inside.

1/: all standard Brembo RGS1000 old black cast 2-piston calipers with edges for plastic caps. New aluminium pistons and seals installed by me. Standard old black axial brake master. Rebuilt. Braided lines, standard Brembo pads. Standard black Brembo brake contact divider mid way. Works. But honestly, I had to press really hard to brake hard. And in my humble view, if you press really hard, you loose some feel. All on 280mm bolted discs, so let's call them semi-floating. Works, but in my honest view, inadequate. Also heavy. As in super heavy complete. The bells being aluminium is lighter of course, than the RGA fully cast iron discs I also tried.

2/: all standard SFC1000 old goldline 2-piston axial calipers and the same master as before. Lighter calipers. Braided lines. Still with original brake stop light thingie mid way. 300mm Brembo Goldline fully floating front brake discs with the correct black bobbins.
Better than the RGS1000 setup. I then went to better pads and it became a little bit better. Still lack of feel and a sort of slow response.

3/: as nr. 2, but at this time my SFC1000 is down 21,984 Kilo lighter. That affects brake performance somewhat to be a little more efficient. Hence why I usually don't fill up the gas tank fully.

4/: as nr. 3, but this time with a RGS Corsa rear brake disc to aid for lightness and potential heat warping, which of course will never happen on the rear. Also, installed special made better stronger black bobbins, so no funny wear. Same front brake. Just the same feel and performance at the front.

5/: as nr. 4, but this time with new 300mm Brembo Goldline front discs, later design with is significantly lighter. Still no slop anywhere. Same performance.

6/: as nr. 5, but this time with new Brembo Goldline brake master (and similar clutch master) aka Duc 916. This in combination with the newer axial 4-piston P4 30/34 cast Brembo Goldline brake calipers on quality cnc'ed Brembo brackets. Worked really well. Better brake performance, better feel. Lighter still, bracket or not. Much more secure to operate. The piston diameter on the Goldline clutch master is sub optimal, but I could not get any other dimensions. So, a little resistance in releasing the clutch. Not a lot, just a tiny bit. The brake performance in all aspects, were a revelation in comparison. It is a different world. Took the old brake light switch out, apart and cleaned it. Oh, the brake light worked again.
Highly recommended upgrade overall. Small reservoir for front brake master, not he big one.

7/: As nr. 6, but this time I installed new brake- and clutch masters again, also Brembo Goldline, but this time a few more steps up the ladder. So they are the racing cnc, just under the full GP race version, but over the CorteCorsa radial version, both masters now radial. Lower weight still. Grey anodising over the cnc'ed bodies. Combined with Brembo carbon ceramic pads, blue again. A bit boring to look at, but way better, in that the brakes are now with better performance and better feel, so easier to dosate. Lesser risk of a locked front wheel. This also transformed the clutch and gearchange, to be super improved and better. No more rolling a bit from time to time, to find neutral. Super upgrade. I really recommend those masters. Also, small reservoir for the new front brake master, not the big one. I also dumped the brackets. Too heavy.

And this is where I am today. Frame upgrades, fork crown upgrades, stiffer lighter and beefier, plus a lot more weight saving coming. I have lot's of parts I didn't even install since the 22 kilo weight saving was reached. But is has to look somewhat original, not a completely changed bike.
My wish for the front brakes are possibly the 320mm version of the exact same front brake discs, very hard to get by now, and I do have extra 2 set new 300 versions plus the new ones I installed are like new. I also have extra fully floating Corsa rear disc, but I would like to stiffen and lighten the front calipers, as well as get a better working and lighter one on the rear, plus make a bearing system, so the momentum arm can actually do it's job in relation to suspension travel, rather than be a look a like as it is from factory.
Optimally, I would like the 32/36mm cnc'ed monobloc axial ones on the front, but cannot find them, hence my question if anyone have experience with the step down, the 30/34mm split axial cnc version with ti fasteners. If I have to change the bolts myself, I will, but I will of course not buy chinese I-don't-know-what-they-are-made-of-bolts, but probolt. I changed a lot of bolts on my Lotus Esprit, and they are strong enough and super nice made for some applications. Also, when I use titanium on my Laverda for parts, I use 6Al/4V also known as grade 5, not the softer more flexier 3Al/2,5V grade 9. I do have experience with titanium for more than 26 years on bikes, bicycles and cars. I also race titanium bicycle frames.
When I said I feel flex in the big 4 piston AP Racing brake calipers I have on my Lotus, I mean that. They are not stiff enough for serious use. I use 322mm x 36mm floating ventilated discs on aluminium bells on all 4 wheels. Cool air ducts for all corners, braided hoses, upgraded master. Only DOT 4 fluid. Renewed every year and also before any track day or similar. My Lotus is also lighter, at 1119 Kilo and a LOT more saving is on the way. I spent 6 years making the optimal tailgate. So my Esprit is a one off factory special plus my mods. I only use soft Summer rubber and in 315/30-18 size, so original and legal. All have to be legal, as I don't want any trouble with the authorities, who are super strict in my country. Boy racers are confiscated and sold. You won't get a dime, but instead a havy fine. So weight is not the factor here. I experiment with pads, frame stiffening and much more. The calipers are the problem, but I will keep them for now, as they are the original Lotus Esprit versions and a special race dept version on the rear. The rears are stiff enough, as they are cnc'ed. The front ones are cast. Hence my comment and wish for cnc'ed front ones for my Laverda.
Oaky, so that was my background on brakes on my Laverda. So, if anyone have some experiences with the axial Brembo Goldline P4-30/34 cnc and with titan bolts, please let me hear about it. And if anyone have a set for sale, I'll buy them but they have to be in good shape. Seals doesn't matter as I renew new.
The reduction of around ½ a kilo of unsprung weight also appeals a lot to me. I cannot tell the exact number, as I don't have them (yet).
Cheers,
Jacques
Click to expand...
Throw on a pair of BST Carbon wheels...... then you'll get a trifecta of improved braking, handling and acceleration.
 
Doing a valve adjustment yesterday on the Motodd. While securing the front end of the chain the electrical wire unraveled and in horror I saw it disappear down that black hole. Fuck fuck fuck!! What should have been an easy afternoon job has now turned into a right pain in the arse.
Off with the pipes, drain the 400km old oil and remove the plate below the cam chain. Finally got the end back up to where it is suppose to be.
Todays job is to reassemble. Valve clearance was border line, .23 on the 3 exh, .20 on the #2 and #3 inlets and .18 on #1.
Contemplating whether I should reuse the oil or fill with new. It's getting expensive!!! Filling with used oil seems weird to me so probably fresh oil it is. While the oil is drained and the pipes are off I'll check the screen.
 

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The on going saga!!
Got the cams back in and started the torque sequence. #1 8mm exhaust cam block stud just didn't tighten.
Exh. cam out and fitted a Timesert.
Cam back in and the centre one started pulling. It torqued to 18ftlb just prior. Thinking about it that #1 stud was loose when I removed the cams.
Who'd of thought I'd be spending the weekend removing the motor to timesert that centre stud!!!
 

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motoddrob said:
The on going saga!!
Got the cams back in and started the torque sequence. #1 8mm exhaust cam block stud just didn't tighten.
Exh. cam out and fitted a Timesert.
Cam back in and the centre one started pulling. It torqued to 18ftlb just prior. Thinking about it that #1 stud was loose when I removed the cams.
Who'd of thought I'd be spending the weekend removing the motor to timesert that centre stud!!!
Click to expand...
Farkin farkin :censored:
 
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