500 basket case

Great info, I want to strip and check the engine before I even attempt to run it, I haven’t got a manual, I will buy one when I see one, I prefer and proper manual than a pdf but if I can download a manual to get me started I’d do that. I’m thinking it’s probably not getting done this summer so I’ll be taking my time. As with most old bike I’m finding out every time I look over the old girl it’s got some wrong bits….. ie the bloody carbs are 34s that explains why there flapping on the manifolds so 32s need adding to the blinking list (unless they work)!!?
Download a manual and print it.
It'll work out cheaper.
You won't find a 500 manual to buy anyhow.
Paul
 
Well I’ve had good afternoon ripping into the bike and I think I need to change the name of this subject as she’s a beautiful thing . Firstly I’ve taken the cam cover of and she got a nice condition S1 cam (what going on below that I don’t know yet). I took the loom off and it doesn’t look like wiring from a forty year old bike. If anyone’s interested I can bang some pictures that I took as I went. To the guy that send me a manual your a gent. Thanks so much. I had a long chat to Andy J that was enlightening so I’m now very glad I bought this “500”.
 
Great info, I want to strip and check the engine before I even attempt to run it, I haven’t got a manual, I will buy one when I see one, I prefer and proper manual than a pdf but if I can download a manual to get me started I’d do that. I’m thinking it’s probably not getting done this summer so I’ll be taking my time. As with most old bike I’m finding out every time I look over the old girl it’s got some wrong bits….. ie the bloody carbs are 34s that explains why there flapping on the manifolds so 32s need adding to the blinking list (unless they work)!!?
32 and 34mm carbs share the same bodies, ie, intake stub dimensions are the same. If they wobble, the rubbers are incorrect.

Stock carbs would have been 32 with a clamp to a solid intake stub. F500 used Chott intake manifolds with a short aluminium tube to suit the clamp carbs. I understand some Monties had the same.

You have the same set-up as the later triples, alloy stub with rubber connector to later-type carbs. Engine should run just fine on 34s.

piet
 
Great info, I want to strip and check the engine before I even attempt to run it, I haven’t got a manual, I will buy one when I see one, I prefer and proper manual than a pdf but if I can download a manual to get me started I’d do that. I’m thinking it’s probably not getting done this summer so I’ll be taking my time. As with most old bike I’m finding out every time I look over the old girl it’s got some wrong bits….. ie the bloody carbs are 34s that explains why there flapping on the manifolds so 32s need adding to the blinking list (unless they work)!!?
Here's the Parts manual https://www.motalia.co.uk/16.html
Here's the Workshop manual https://www.motalia.co.uk/17.html
 
32 and 34mm carbs share the same bodies, ie, intake stub dimensions are the same. If they wobble, the rubbers are incorrect.

Stock carbs would have been 32 with a clamp to a solid intake stub. F500 used Chott intake manifolds with a short aluminium tube to suit the clamp carbs. I understand some Monties had the same.

You have the same set-up as the later triples, alloy stub with rubber connector to later-type carbs. Engine should run just fine on 34s.

piet
I’ve got the later set up there is a dog leg bracket on the rear of the cylinder head but it was tightened facing down and while the hole in it lines up perfectly with the hole on the choke bar the set in it is not great enough to reach. Simple fix when I come to rebuilding it. Thanks for the info. Roland.
 
Is this standard issue on the 500s
 

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Late production 500 twins, nominally called 500T & 500S, were essentially a rehash of the original Alpino and Alpino S, with the 500S sharing the same high comp pistons as the Alpino S and was fitted with clip-ons and a nose cone fairing. ‘Monty’ rear sets were available in the UK for an extra seventy five quid. Therefore, it wasn’t any more difficult to create a Monty ‘replica’ with these bikes than it was with the earlier bikes by the addition of S1 cams, a Sito exhaust and some screen and plastics bodywork. I’ve seen loads of them in the UK - a bit like all the supposedly SFC750 ‘replicas’. The only difference being it’s a lot easier to try and fake a F500/Monty than copy a genuine SFC750.
 
Late production 500 twins, nominally called 500T & 500S, were essentially a rehash of the original Alpino and Alpino S, with the 500S sharing the same high comp pistons as the Alpino S and was fitted with clip-ons and a nose cone fairing. ‘Monty’ rear sets were available in the UK for an extra seventy five quid. Therefore, it wasn’t any more difficult to create a Monty ‘replica’ with these bikes than it was with the earlier bikes by the addition of S1 cams, a Sito exhaust and some screen and plastics bodywork. I’ve seen loads of them in the UK - a bit like all the supposedly SFC750 ‘replicas’. The only difference being it’s a lot easier to try and fake a F500/Monty than copy a genuine SFC750.
It's very easy to copy a 750 SFC, which is why there's so many good ones out there and so many people being had.
Paul
 
Late production 500 twins, nominally called 500T & 500S, were essentially a rehash of the original Alpino and Alpino S, with the 500S sharing the same high comp pistons as the Alpino S and was fitted with clip-ons and a nose cone fairing. ‘Monty’ rear sets were available in the UK for an extra seventy five quid. Therefore, it wasn’t any more difficult to create a Monty ‘replica’ with these bikes than it was with the earlier bikes by the addition of S1 cams, a Sito exhaust and some screen and plastics bodywork. I’ve seen loads of them in the UK - a bit like all the supposedly SFC750 ‘replicas’. The only difference being it’s a lot easier to try and fake a F500/Monty than copy a genuine SFC750.
Is there a sure fire way to confirm a bike is a montjuic or not, other than a genuine letter from slaters?
 
It's very easy to copy a 750 SFC, which is why there's so many good ones out there and so many people being had.
Paul
I could pick almost any replica by simply starting it and blipping the throttle - I'd guarantee that virtually no SFC replicas have an SFC crank (among many other things). But the 'ergonomics' are easy to replicate :ROFLMAO:
 
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