Atlas Questions

Vince said:
. Only missing the supply of Cam Chains at some future point.
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I’d like to be the first to welcome you Vince to the post 80s small twin cam chain hunt, im sure the other members of the search party will be along soon to let you know of their endeavours
 

Cam chain for 500 Lav

Hi Guys, New to this so please excuse the directness. Has any body got a clue to where I can find a Cam Chain for a 500 Monoshocked Monty. Thanks Andy
laverdaforum.com laverdaforum.com

Here’s a bit of light reading in the meantime…
 
Hey Vince before you consider changing any jets, can I suggest that you have the entire fuel system cleaned out including the tank.
This will be your best starting point don't muck around with any settings yourself if your not confident, best results will be achieved with trying to get all settings as close to possible to factory specs ie float levels emulsion tube size needle position, I will bet my left nut the idle and main circuits are blocked up to the shithouse.
 
I agree Maurice, the tank is pretty clean. I need to find a logical starting, no pun, point and with Piet's mate at OCT saying the last one they went through went well with standard jetting, surprised me a lot. So waiting for the jet shop to open isn't happening now. I guess an Ultrasonic carb session would be exactly that. BTW these carbs don't run needles. Now, who do I know that owns an Ultrasonic tank?
 
My other Atlas was fine at low revs, chugging along on the rough stuff, in first or second. The problem was if you whacked the throttle open or around the 4000-4500 revs when it would bog down Before clearing again. It was as though the carb was flooding. BTW I have the Sachse ignition fitted.
P.S. I was lucky enough to obtain one of the last sets of CNC inlet stub sets. Unless anyone else is willing to step up and make some, I think that’s it.
P.P.S. I have been asked to get some spare throttle and clutch cables made up By JJ Cables.
Currently I have orders for three sets. Does anybody else with an Atlas want a set Making?
 
That wacking open is exactly where the accelerator pump is supposed to work. Told this story heaps, Husky 4 strokes come with Delordo carbs and the 350 I had used to have a horribly notchy act which didn't help in really complicated technical riding so in an attempt to remove that I pulled the plastic pump arm off the slide and it was way smoother but fell on its face trying to wheely over stuff. Win loss, so I put the lever back and added some grease to the accelerator pump arm slide interface and that fixed it totally. Accelerator pumps are absolutely needed for carbs in off-road riding. Proven by the hundreds of workaround for this or FCR Keians with pumps.
 
I guess switching to phf carbs with accelerator pumps is an option if the car carb issue continues, especially as there is space now with the Mk3 type exhaust fitted.
you could probably sell the CNC inlets and recover the cost of the conversion.🤔
 
Andy J said:
Well it looks like a Mk2 sprayed red to me and so not one of the genuine 50ish Mk3s produced.
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Andy - agreed.
Mk.3s had the left-exit exhaust headers, not headers that run under the carb, as is the case with the bike for sale.

This is a genuine Mk.3 (my old one):

 
Cosi said:
I’d like to be the first to welcome you Vince to the post 80s small twin cam chain hunt, im sure the other members of the search party will be along soon to let you know of their endeavours
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Unfortunately they've all been lost, Cosi, somewhere out there in the Chain Desert ... :cry:
 
I finally got the carb off on the weekend, the bowl was pretty clean but the emulsion tubes and idle jets had some blockages. I guess that explains no power down low. My compressor fixed that pretty quickly, I also have a handle on recommended jets. My problem is the only place that sells jets is closed for the holidays till the 11th and there in Melbourne so I now wait. While it's out I might as well put a rebuild kit through the carb. Andy J I bet that bog with hard full throttle is too strong a steam of fuel from the accelerator pump. There are hundreds of ways to time and adjust exactly that on FCR flat slide Kehans used on every Dirtbike made before they all went FI. There is an adjustment to increase or reduce this on the twin throats and it is happily easy to get at.
 
Did some more digging today as I was having trouble finding the main jets. No wonder, it's pushed onto the end of the emulator tube. The idle jet is completely different to the ones sold in Melbourne, there's are typical jet size where mine is also stuck onto the air bleed thingy and approx 20mm long and skinny. I will ask about that. What was even better was finding a small assess panel that allows both jets to come in and out easily instead of pulling the carb and removing the whole fuel bowl. So now with clean jets, I will try another test ride around the block.
 
I am right out of my comfort zone, especially with this carby. I found something odd again last night. BTW the jet access panel also has a breather hose, 10mm dia attached that directly connects to the float chamber above the fuel lever. I get carbys need to breathe but especially on a dirtbike I would expect that breathing would come from the filtered air inside the airbox and not just be laying on top of it where dust could get. This has been a bit controversial, people used to find very fine dust in the float bowls of FCR Kehans and it was suspected it got there through the 2/ 3mm dia float bowl breather hoses that ran down below the engine so they started making and fitting tiny foam filters to stop this happening, but plenty thought this was bull and that dirt came from the fuel tank. That 10mm hose is much bigger. I am thinking it should be sent into the clean air side of the air box.
 
I was about to remount the carb when I noticed one of its fixing bolts had been cut to length, the last thing I want is to strip a thread in an irreplaceable CNCed inlet manifold over a $2 bolt so I bought a few of various lengths and the carb will go back on tomorrow, or at least when I recover from Tomorrows Eye Injection at the Sydney Eye Hospital.
 
All hand done, they are very busy as it's getting extremely common to have various forms of Macular swelling. The big search is for longer-lasting treatments, mine is back to monthly injections as going longer results in an increase in swelling and more blurry central left eye vision between injections. Physically its as easy as Pie, it takes a while to get past the IDEA of it. The only downside is occasionally you get some stinging for a few hours from the Benidin antiseptic they use to stop infections.
 
Vince said:
I am right out of my comfort zone, especially with this carby. I found something odd again last night. BTW the jet access panel also has a breather hose, 10mm dia attached that directly connects to the float chamber above the fuel lever. I get carbys need to breathe but especially on a dirtbike I would expect that breathing would come from the filtered air inside the airbox and not just be laying on top of it where dust could get. This has been a bit controversial, people used to find very fine dust in the float bowls of FCR Kehans and it was suspected it got there through the 2/ 3mm dia float bowl breather hoses that ran down below the engine so they started making and fitting tiny foam filters to stop this happening, but plenty thought this was bull and that dirt came from the fuel tank. That 10mm hose is much bigger. I am thinking it should be sent into the clean air side of the air box.
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The clean air side of the airbox will have lower air pressure than atmospheric because of the air pressure drop across the intake air filter, so it might upset the fuel level. I hope that makes sense. I'm a bit zonked on the pain drugs the doc has me on.
 
Thanks, Cam, Piet said the same. time to leave sleeping dogs alone. Big day tomorrow, my bet is the Dakar will be decided in the coming sand Marathon and I will see if my bike becomes not perfect but at least ridable.
 
I finally got the bike mostly back together and it now starts and revs strong and clean right through the rev range on the stand in the shed. I ended up destroying the gaskets that go between the rear of the carb and the airbox connect but it's pulled up pretty snug and I can fix that next week when the carb rebuild kit arrives, mostly for spare parts. So just like every bike I have ever owned, if they sit around eg 2-month boat trips halfway around the earth plus some time before leaving Blighty then surprise surprise the carb needs cleaning out. They're a pretty scary-looking carb so I was reluctant to go there but in the end, it turned out not to be completely overwhelming. So some test riding to come and then a full upgrade of the suspension, the rear shock works like a Pogo stick not to mention the spring is way too soft for my lardy arse. I don't expect I will be jumping massive dunes anytime soon but I would like to hit suburban speed bumps without doing a handstand over the bars.
 
Vince said:
All hand done, they are very busy as it's getting extremely common to have various forms of Macular swelling. The big search is for longer-lasting treatments, mine is back to monthly injections as going longer results in an increase in swelling and more blurry central left eye vision between injections. Physically its as easy as Pie, it takes a while to get past the IDEA of it. The only downside is occasionally you get some stinging for a few hours from the Benidin antiseptic they use to stop infections.
Click to expand...
I was working in Echuca Vic, and got some metal in my eye, rode the Jota home and back the next morning after no sleep.

Went to the hospital emergency. Dr, maybe Chinese or Japanese or something put the orange dye in my eye, my head in the brace thing and instead of using the shit in eye extraction tool, he grabbed two needles and held them like chopsticks and pulled the metal out.

I was shitting bricks, but his hand was a steady as.
 
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