Atlas Questions

I was thinking more that you could make a piece that you could pop rivet to the guard with the hole in it. The heat gun thing on plastic allows a huge amount of shaping. New guard best of all of course - but in the meantime ...
 
That Motobatt battery was a fair bit cheaper than I expected $189. I won't buy it till I am sure it will clear the tyre.
 
I'm back home later and will check out my Mk2 as it has a Motobatt fitted, which has worked out okay. I can't remember the size off the top of my head. I can also check out the battery box for you and for a rear mudguard.
 
Thanks mate, good to hear. I might have to squeeze the cut-and-shut battery box hard against the hopefully new rear guard with some application of a hot air gun. It will be tight but hopefully doable.
 
Even my battery box and mudguard has been partially butchered by a previous owner, but by perhaps not as much as yours.
I do recall the dealer I bought your bike from Vince said they had fitted a new battery. Now whether they are responsible for any of the butchery in order to get the biggest or only battery to hand to fit, or just copied what a previous owner had fitted, I cannot say.
 

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Vince said:
Thanks mate, good to hear. I might have to squeeze the cut-and-shut battery box hard against the hopefully new rear guard with some application of a hot air gun. It will be tight but hopefully doable.
Click to expand...

If you tape a bit of 6mm packing to the battery, fit new guard, heat up the section in question and ram the battery home and let it cool in situ, then remove battery and take off the packing. Battery should fit like a glove.

My son did a similar thing for some custom fishing rod holder tubes in his boat this week.
 
If the modified battery box still hits the tyre at worst or is too tight to fit a replacement plastic guard then Chris it's Hot Air guns at 10 paces.
 
Pluses and minuses, I got the modified battery box back and fitted it while loading the hell out of the back of the bike with 80kgs of crushed granite in 20kg bags. I had backed off the shock preload so it would hopefully bottom easily. I was going to attempt to measure full rear travel, check the chain tension and check to see if the tyre hit the now smaller battery box. But even with the spring as loose as possible, I couldn't get the shock to bottom even with me sitting on it as well as those bags of crushed stone. So I did find there is heaps of clearance on the battery box, the tyre does get very close to the muffler side, the chain tension is fine and the measured travel I could get was 115mm, well short of the supposed 200mm in the manual. That stuffs my idea of using the measured full shock travel to set sag. What I think I will do is ride the bike hard over some big speed humps with the fully loaded panniers fitted and try upping the spring preload till I cannot feel any hard bottoming and see what that produces with seat height and feet touching the ground. The seat height now with all the perload off is 860mm down from the 900mm it was at when I was using the apparent 200mm of travel. That 40mm less has me easily flat footing on both sides of the bike. So I will load the bike up with the panniers and see how it goes smashing into those huge speed bumps in the next suburbs. At the very least the tyre isn't hitting the battery anymore.
 
I got sick of waiting for the battery to turn up so I did a Google and rang around and found a battery seller that had it $30 cheaper, and then the first bunch rang back and said there was an additional $19 shipping charge, so that got shitcaned and with a 30-minute drive I save $59. The first very famous local battery supplier is $208, and the place that has it in stock but is a bit further to drive is $149, I wonder how much of this current INFLATION is greedy bastards just upping their price.
 
The new smaller battery is fitted, but bit of a stuff up getting it. The bloke mistook me for some other bald fat glasses glasses-wearing bloke and said the battery was on a truck and would arrive in an hour, the truck turns up and I went to pay and he got a confused look on his face and suddenly realised I was a different bloke and my battery was there all the time. So an hour down the tube. I also cracked the how-to-bottom the suspension trick, I just needed a bigger load and that was me and my slightly less fat brother both sitting on the poor bike. So that's probably well over 400kg and that resulted in 187mm of total rear travel and it definitely bottomed. So now I can actually set the sag at 1/3rd of travel at 62mm and even allow some compromise in more sag with the loaded panniers fitted. The only fly in the ointment is for some odd reason the heated grips stopped working while I was fitting the new battery. The fuse looks ok, more fiddling is required. And the right side fuel tap is leaking again.
 
You would be surprised at how often I end up riding in very close to 0c temperatures in the mole hills we call Mountains up and down the coast and in Tassie. BTW I really like the Storm Plastic Barkbusters covers to keep the breeze off the hands as well.
 
I forgot to add I checked the chain tension with it bottomed and had to back it off 1/2 a turn as the chain was getting slightly snug at the point.
 
I was sitting on the bike with my brother on the back and bouncing on the seat while I was feeling chain tension and it got a bit snug on its biggest depression, with it bottomed so we got off and I backed it off 1/2 a turn on the adjusters and tried again and it became nicely looser. Not so easy balancing while doing that. It's a linked suspension so I guess there is some rising rate built into wheel travel compared to shock travel but that gets past my pay grade really fast. I just don't want any impediment to full travel by the chain. Yes, I know the chain tension should reach its maximum with the centreline of the countershaft sprocket, swingarm pivot and centre of the rear wheel become aligned but achieving that, just seeing it in the real world isn't happening. Tomorrow I will set the sag at 62mm and go for a run over the next suburb's huge speed bumps and see how it goes for comfort and where the seat height ends up.
 
I think I have maxed out the threaded spring preload adjuster at 83mm of SAG, confirm that tomorrow. The ideal is 62mm, so 20mm more SAG and a seat height of 880mm, reasonable in real-world riding, halfway between tipy toes and flat-footed on both sides. Good time to load up the panniers and hit some huge speed humps and see how it goes.BTW those huge speed humps are approx 500mm wide and close to 200mm high, along the road beside Northbridge Pub, by far the biggest I have ever seen around me. You need to stay under 15kph in a car or risk big damage, good test on a Dirtbike at 40kph or a bit more to test bottoming.
 
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Vince said:
I think I have maxed out the threaded spring preload adjuster at 83mm of SAG, confirm that tomorrow. The ideal is 62mm, so 20mm more SAG and a seat height of 880mm, reasonable in real-world riding, halfway between tipy toes and flat-footed on both sides. Good time to load up the panniers and hit some huge speed humps and see how it goes.BTW those huge speed humps are approx 500mm wide and close to 200mm high, along the road beside Northbridge Pub, by far the biggest I have ever seen around me. You need to stay under 15kph in a car or risk big damage, good test on a Dirtbike at 40kph or a bit more to test bottoming.
Click to expand...
Just try not to crash testing it....
 
We don't get many sand woops around here but they spring up occasionally so you need to learn to handle them. They form just like Mogals on Ski Hills or Corrugations, physics at work. The local training park in the back blocks of Sydney had a section approx 200m long, you needed technique to ride it fast and absolutely on the pegs or they would kick you over the bars. That was till Terry Hays waved his magic fingers on my Modern Husky. After that, you could charge in seated. The difference between personalised great suspension and stock is night and day. I am far from one of those Supercross maniacs who wheely into them at max attack, that's takes Balls well bigger than mine. But jumping those big local speed humps is pretty easy stuff IF the impacts get absorbed in the suspension.
 
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