chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Looks chunky in that dia.
Building my Jota
- Thread starter sideshow
- Start date
Looks chunky in that dia.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
Hmmm, they are massive ID headers - I trust they've done some testing before arriving at those dimensions, Todd?
sideshow
Hero member
apparently so.... but I have not seen any graphs or anything. 18 sets have been ordered ...so lets see how they all go
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
18 sets!! No wonder it's taking forever to get yours!
sideshow
Hero member
A bunch of electrics photos today. I printed the final ignition box holder today. This first photo is how it prints with the supports which allow me to print over hangs , which are the tops of the lightening holes. I could have printed it with 20% infill, semi hollow, but I chose to go 100% infill with lightening holes. It made it stronger, lighter and I liked the aesthetics of it. This was a 23 hour print. And 45 minutes on cad.
The next photo is after the supports are pulled off, then on the scales without a clean up, it comes out at 56 grams. It needs a sand on the edges to make it a bit tidier. I’m printing a rubber cushion that the ignition box sits on inside as will for a bit of dampening. The bulk head everything mounts to is also rubber mounted.
I think it looks like it’s meant to be , where it’s mounted. I made a huge leap in the wiring today. Most cables have at least one end crimped , I will crimp the other ends at work Monday , by a massive Strack of good fortune, and with no skill involved they all just fall into place and look tidy .... beginners luck.
The last two pictures are the tray that sits under the kill switch ( old battery tray floor area). This will be filled with all the connector plugs for the ignition box , regulator and the kill switch connections. The box in the pictures is my rendering. It’s printing now, it will be done at 2300 tomorrow Sunday night. It’s a 33 hour print. And 30 minutes drawing on Cad. This print gets used as a female mould for a carbon lay up. I wanted a really strong light tray that wouldn’t crack or warp like plastic would. The recess line around the lip of the tray is the actual size of the tray , the recess marks out perfect edges when we vac bag the carbon down , so we get a nicer cut, past the recess is just extra flat area for lay up. Hopefully I will be done with this Thursday, and installing the tray/ box on Friday .
the single small green wire is only one of two wires for the dash lights, and control switches that runs forward , the other will be an earth , so it keeps the switch gear loom minuscule. The M button up front by the clip ons takes care of the rest.
I decided to not run the m button in the clip ons. The wiring will still be in the clip ons , but the M button will be in a small sealed thick walled Ali tube mounted on a bracket by the steering head.
The next photo is after the supports are pulled off, then on the scales without a clean up, it comes out at 56 grams. It needs a sand on the edges to make it a bit tidier. I’m printing a rubber cushion that the ignition box sits on inside as will for a bit of dampening. The bulk head everything mounts to is also rubber mounted.
I think it looks like it’s meant to be , where it’s mounted. I made a huge leap in the wiring today. Most cables have at least one end crimped , I will crimp the other ends at work Monday , by a massive Strack of good fortune, and with no skill involved they all just fall into place and look tidy .... beginners luck.
The last two pictures are the tray that sits under the kill switch ( old battery tray floor area). This will be filled with all the connector plugs for the ignition box , regulator and the kill switch connections. The box in the pictures is my rendering. It’s printing now, it will be done at 2300 tomorrow Sunday night. It’s a 33 hour print. And 30 minutes drawing on Cad. This print gets used as a female mould for a carbon lay up. I wanted a really strong light tray that wouldn’t crack or warp like plastic would. The recess line around the lip of the tray is the actual size of the tray , the recess marks out perfect edges when we vac bag the carbon down , so we get a nicer cut, past the recess is just extra flat area for lay up. Hopefully I will be done with this Thursday, and installing the tray/ box on Friday .
the single small green wire is only one of two wires for the dash lights, and control switches that runs forward , the other will be an earth , so it keeps the switch gear loom minuscule. The M button up front by the clip ons takes care of the rest.
I decided to not run the m button in the clip ons. The wiring will still be in the clip ons , but the M button will be in a small sealed thick walled Ali tube mounted on a bracket by the steering head.
Attachments
sideshow
Hero member
Here’s a view of what I can see at home from monitoring the printer at work . I have a live feed over the cloud. So I can see it printing, it’s a poor camera feed, it has to be said , but it shows what I need to see. The data below it shows I have turned on the LED lights. The left print head is running 223 degrees and that the heat bed is at 60 degrees. So all is as it should be , it’s 22% printed. It’s an amazing tool.
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
That's so hi-tech it could be NASA at work.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I feel old 
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
It's edging ever closer to ... electrons all round! Fossil fuels? Anyone want to buy an unused roll fo Ektachrome? 
sideshow
Hero member
More dry fitting today. The carbon tray needs a little trim on the front lip and some entry holes in the front wall of it. But you get the idea of how it works. Keeps things today and clean. The third photo is the mould I printed for it. Worked a treat. Working on the moto gadget wiring today. And trying to find somewhere hidden yet sensible to put the horn !
Attachments
Jo
Hero member
- Location
- Cologne, NRW Germany
Todd... don't forget about starting that engine.... or one night while you are sleeping you will hear it suddently. It will be me after finishing my waiting patience
Ha ha, that's what I thought either ...
piranha-bro2
Hero member
- Location
- Melbourne
How is the tray secured in the frame, Todd?
sideshow
Hero member
I’m using dual lock on the tray. Then that also for the kill switch/ tray lid. I don’t want to drill holes anywhere so dual lick is it. It’s harder to get off than shit on a blanket , which is good.
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
Hey Todd, are you on a go slow with your project? I’m missing the updates, keep em coming.
sideshow
Hero member
Hi Mate
feels go slow ! last week one of my nippers broke her shoulder horse riding , which threw the house into disaster mode. Mum stayed at the hospital, and I ran work and home at the same time. Each morning 160km round trip for school runs and the same in the afternoon. Then kids at work with me till 1800 , Then home and dinner and homework. Everything is stabilised now. Back on the tools today !
laverda180
Junior member
- Location
- Amberley, New Zealand
Hi Todd, I have been enjoying your blog a lot as much is relevant to my current rebuild. Is this the Ricks Motorsport Electrics regulator you mentioned in earlier post? Could you give me their part number so I may order one?
sideshow
Hero member
Hi Mate. Yes it is. They have been great to work with on this. If you mail Mike C on this mail MikeC@ricksmotorsportelectrics.com
Tell him Todd from Mallorca sent you and he will sort you out. They are top blokes.
sideshow
Hero member
So a big wiring day today. Well at least for me. When you aren’t familiar with what you are doing , it takes more time , but with music and espresso in the shed, I don’t care how long it takes ....it’s good for the soul.
I have now run all the wires , I just can’t bring myself to scrape earth points on my nice fresh frame.... I know I have too, but a few more days of no scraping will be ok. I know I harp on about the motogadget system, but it really is good, especially if you buy a wiring kit for the loom, it comes with more than enough wire to wire the whole bike , with colour codes for each item, and pin crimps so the the wires anchor securely in the m unit. It takes a lot of guess work out of it , and gives you some confidence. This week I will do the frame earths, and power the system up, and then run all the wiring through cable conduit , once I see everything is working correctly.
it is actually a really nice job crimping and getting everything hooked up , made even nicer with the right tools , and as I have 3 more laverda to build as my projects, I have invested in getting the right gear to do all the jobs correctly.
Some wires you can see in photos I have run long , in particular the red wire in photo 4, that is for the horn, I’m not sure if where I have it, will be it’s final resting place, so I gave my self a little wiggle room on that finished circuit. Photo 5 shows the final prototype seat support , where the front of the seat will fasten too, it also routes the cables to the battery, the rear indicators, and tail/ brake light . I’m pretty stoked with this clamp design , I will show that as a seperate post when I have printed the final units. Anyone brave enough to have printed parts on their bikes and think these parts can work for their bikes , I am happy to share the 3D files of them, on the condition no one makes any money off them.
I still can’t start the bike until my exhaust arrives , which grates that it is so late, but these are extraordinary times and people need to some slack cut for them, especially small companies and self employed blokes
I have now run all the wires , I just can’t bring myself to scrape earth points on my nice fresh frame.... I know I have too, but a few more days of no scraping will be ok. I know I harp on about the motogadget system, but it really is good, especially if you buy a wiring kit for the loom, it comes with more than enough wire to wire the whole bike , with colour codes for each item, and pin crimps so the the wires anchor securely in the m unit. It takes a lot of guess work out of it , and gives you some confidence. This week I will do the frame earths, and power the system up, and then run all the wiring through cable conduit , once I see everything is working correctly.
it is actually a really nice job crimping and getting everything hooked up , made even nicer with the right tools , and as I have 3 more laverda to build as my projects, I have invested in getting the right gear to do all the jobs correctly.
Some wires you can see in photos I have run long , in particular the red wire in photo 4, that is for the horn, I’m not sure if where I have it, will be it’s final resting place, so I gave my self a little wiggle room on that finished circuit. Photo 5 shows the final prototype seat support , where the front of the seat will fasten too, it also routes the cables to the battery, the rear indicators, and tail/ brake light . I’m pretty stoked with this clamp design , I will show that as a seperate post when I have printed the final units. Anyone brave enough to have printed parts on their bikes and think these parts can work for their bikes , I am happy to share the 3D files of them, on the condition no one makes any money off them.
I still can’t start the bike until my exhaust arrives , which grates that it is so late, but these are extraordinary times and people need to some slack cut for them, especially small companies and self employed blokes
