Dellorto Main Jet - too rich problem
- Thread starter Chuck3CL
- Start date
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
according to the Dell-Orto Handbook, the floats should "hang from above", means you would need to put them on engine side if I see it right on the pic above, not on the inlet side.
Personally, when did the job back in the time I used Dell'Ortos, I did check it with a tool like described above while the carbs were still mounted and connected to the gas-tank. This way (one by one) you can check if they REALY close at 18mm or not... It's a bit messy (needs a lot of towels to soack up the fuel and tiny hands to get in there), but it was the best way to make sure they really close around 18mm. Also, there is a tool to measure this from different sources, like:
seems to work quite well.
Personally, when did the job back in the time I used Dell'Ortos, I did check it with a tool like described above while the carbs were still mounted and connected to the gas-tank. This way (one by one) you can check if they REALY close at 18mm or not... It's a bit messy (needs a lot of towels to soack up the fuel and tiny hands to get in there), but it was the best way to make sure they really close around 18mm. Also, there is a tool to measure this from different sources, like:
Carburetor float level gauge K&L
www.saber-cycle.com
seems to work quite well.
mauricejota7604
Hero member
- Location
- Victoria Australia
Ring Mario at Thunderbikes in Perth order a full set of AB265 needle jets along with a full set of K1 needles I would probably get a set of choke plungers as well and at least you will know thats all good.
if its blowing that much black smoke it must be down on power as well????
if its blowing that much black smoke it must be down on power as well????
Schurminater
Hero member
- Location
- Surrey Hills
Watching this thread with interest,i'm also running 125 mains and suspect its running slightly rich although runs well on them,however have always wondered if it would run "crisper" with 120's fitted?
Plugs tend to be similar to yours but I put that more down to today's fuels, also mine will not run well on Shell super unleaded which tends to knock the plugs out quite quickly if slow running.
Plugs tend to be similar to yours but I put that more down to today's fuels, also mine will not run well on Shell super unleaded which tends to knock the plugs out quite quickly if slow running.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Did check the company settings and found the 3CL should have (unless it's a French or Swiss model with A12 cams) 118 as the main jet. so - going lower shouldn't be wrong
according to the Dell-Orto Handbook, the floats should "hang from above", means you would need to put them on engine side if I see it right on the pic above, not on the inlet side.
Personally, when did the job back in the time I used Dell'Ortos, I did check it with a tool like described above while the carbs were still mounted and connected to the gas-tank. This way (one by one) you can check if they REALY close at 18mm or not... It's a bit messy (needs a lot of towels to soack up the fuel and tiny hands to get in there), but it was the best way to make sure they really close around 18mm. Also, there is a tool to measure this from different sources, like:
Carburetor float level gauge K&L
www.saber-cycle.com
seems to work quite well.
I did it like this
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
I stand correct then, sorry.
The ideas and efforts are becoming more desperate, cannot help it, a smile here. Here is another one, the air box, does not have a "1200" style metal baffle plate with individual snorkels fitted? To my shame many days once upon a time, using a factory manual it had this low comp piston and K14 needle air box ( USA market from memory to meet noise/intake regs for California ) slavishly installed such baffle, that was fun trying to work out why the 3c engine was well out of sorts.
Learn a lot when things are very wrong, perhaps this topic has the stamp of "work me out if you can", await the next bizarre suggestion, take some to beat my one above... wry smile here. BTW, just for the heck of it, what air cleaner element is fitted? j
Learn a lot when things are very wrong, perhaps this topic has the stamp of "work me out if you can", await the next bizarre suggestion, take some to beat my one above... wry smile here. BTW, just for the heck of it, what air cleaner element is fitted? j
My original airbox was in a very poor state when I first bought my 3c so I bought a new one from Andy Wagnor and as I had no idea from his exploded diagrams what all the internals were I bought the lot, including that power and sound damping baffle. Andy rang me from Germany to Oz, that was some surprised phone call asking me why I wanted all that internal crap. Nice bloke to bother, I got it anyway but never fitted it.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
Andy Wagner has a filter that is close to the original one: https://www.laverda-paradies.de/article-53-42-en.html
Not sure but I think he also offers just the filter-material much cheaper. Just send him an inquiry and for sure he will answer.
Not sure but I think he also offers just the filter-material much cheaper. Just send him an inquiry and for sure he will answer.
AndyW
Hero member
Thanks: I'll 'Check in to Spotlight' tomorrow as there's one around the corner from me..
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
I use a polyester filter media that's used in the aircon industry.
This kind of thing https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/hvac...ZzI_r5j86JfdyDB2Kc0aAv08EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I used to work in aircon design, so I know a few contractors. One of them cut me off about a square metre of the stuff free of charge. That's enough to last me and all my mates several lifetimes. It's about 10mm thick, but will squish into the filter frame of a Laverda triple. It splits into two layers pretty easily though, so I use it in 5mm layers so as not to make it too dense by squashing it down. Just go and ask an aircon contractor if they have any filter media in a roll. Take your filter frame or the dimensions with you so they understand how small a piece you need. The amount you're asking for is only worth a few cents so most of them would be happy to cut you off a small sample for nothing.
This kind of thing https://au.rs-online.com/web/p/hvac...ZzI_r5j86JfdyDB2Kc0aAv08EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
I used to work in aircon design, so I know a few contractors. One of them cut me off about a square metre of the stuff free of charge. That's enough to last me and all my mates several lifetimes. It's about 10mm thick, but will squish into the filter frame of a Laverda triple. It splits into two layers pretty easily though, so I use it in 5mm layers so as not to make it too dense by squashing it down. Just go and ask an aircon contractor if they have any filter media in a roll. Take your filter frame or the dimensions with you so they understand how small a piece you need. The amount you're asking for is only worth a few cents so most of them would be happy to cut you off a small sample for nothing.
I've measured all 3 needles, all are still round ( no oval shape wear) and are well within spec. One needle is 0.01mm out. (2.44 vs 2.45 mm dia)
The tubes inspected under a microscope show no wear, are circular, tapered as per spec, and clean.
So... I don't mind replacing needles/tubes if necessary, but I can't identify any wear of any significance.
Is there any better way to identify wear that would cause rich mixture?
I'm inclined to experiment using the 1st ring setting on the needle vs the 2nd as recommended.
Laverdalothar
Hero member
- Location
- Germany
That at least does not cost more than time. Go for it. But don't be surprised if the bike does not pull anymore as it was before (or better, if it's the right direction... ;-) )