LAVERDA 1000 SFC Superleggera Part one

RGSFC

Junior member
Location
Piemonte
I have been riding Laverdas for almost 40 years, but for some strange reason never been aware of this forum, until two years ago. I was on holliday in Italy (same place I am now), and searching for a Laverda model kit. I therefore discovered (and ordered) the V6 model, and started reading the Forum.
That made me aware of Boba and his carbon work. I also realized that Lothar had quite a lot of contact with him, so I wrote Lothar and asked for his advice about ordering a set of carbon for for the SFC i had purchased to replace the two RGS I just sold. He advised against it, but he had a set himself, and after a short while we agreed on a deal where I could buy his set. He informed me that it was either the only set in existence, or one of two. Maybe someone here can enlighten me?

First I must mention: The bike is only about 98% finished, and has not been started or ridden yet. I have been working on it almost every day for 8 month. The original target was to have it ready for the 75th in Breganze, and it was a great disappointment that I had to take the 916 to Italy. Even though it’s a fantastic bike, that I have enjoyed for 30 years (mostly on small winding roads and a lot of trackdays) it is about the worst touring bike in existence. I have always had a tendency to get lost in small details. After my brain stroke three years ago, that tendency has increased. I get mentally tired very fast, have poor concentration and memory and everyday I have to look for parts and tools etc. Therefore I found this vacation a good opportunity to write this without distractions. Naturally there will more when I have the bike on the road.
IMG_0709.jpeg


The carbon parts- tank, fairing, front fender and seat unit had a total weight of 5,05 kg, and is the perfect start for a weight reduction program.
The first thing I did was to send the tank to Ammon Tanksiegel to have the tank sealed, so it could withstand the crap modern fuel. They did a fast and efficient job.

Unfortunately almost none of the parts/jobs after this have been plug and play. In most cases it’s been a matter of very long waits (I started ordering parts last year), and the record of waiting time was 11 month. Many parts I had to modify to fit, but that is what to expect when doing such a rebuild.

Next I tried to order a set of Marvic magnesium wheels. The model I wanted is the Campagnolo. A replica of the wheel that was introduced in Grand Prix racing in 1973. Unfortunately the had lost all data for Laverda wheels, and even though a friend send his Oscams to Italy it was still a long process and the end result required modifications to the fork sliders, additional adapters under the discs and completely new distance items for the axles. The biggest regret though, is that listened to advices concerning the widths. I intended to use their max sizes for 18”- 3,00 front and 4,50 rear, but ended up ordering GSXR 1100 sizes 2,75 front and 4,00 rear.

I have for a long time been road racing on a Formula 500 (and others of non Italian background) after I blew the engine on the formula at the end of the long straight on Anderstorp. After that many trackdays on a 1199 S Panigale and the 916. I therefore wanted some rubber that was well suited for the track. Not an easy task for 18” wheels. Metzeler had unfortunately stopped the production of the Racetec RR, but after a long search I found two sets in Italy 110/80 and 150/65. Unused, but from 2019. The fit on the narrower rims now have the sides of the rubber a little to steep, and I have 6mm of spacing from the 520 chain to the tyre. I even had room to fit the chain guard without modifying it.IMG_0626.jpegIMG_0713.jpegIMG_0704.jpeg

The fact that it is a very rare set of carbon, have had me think long and hard about painting Bobas work. But I have since very young been a great fan of Italian vehicles, and in my opinion they should be REDuuid=A0128271-EB76-4166-B9CC-6E2C61790CDD&library=1&type=1&mode=1&loc=true&cap=true.jpeguuid=B0609C97-7850-4E37-ADDC-95E24D30B4DA&library=1&type=1&mode=1&loc=true&cap=true.jpeg

Therefore I ended up with a compromise: Let the lettering be kept in carbon and keep the rest of the bike red. On the front fender I added a gentleman that needs no introduction. I have had the pleasure of meeting him about 5 times- including the start-up of the V6 in his living room in 1991. I think that it’s very appropriate that he rides along.IMG_0714.jpegIMG_0715.jpegIMG_0718.jpeg
 
I have been riding Laverdas for almost 40 years, but for some strange reason never been aware of this forum, until two years ago. I was on holliday in Italy (same place I am now), and searching for a Laverda model kit. I therefore discovered (and ordered) the V6 model, and started reading the Forum.
That made me aware of Boba and his carbon work. I also realized that Lothar had quite a lot of contact with him, so I wrote Lothar and asked for his advice about ordering a set of carbon for for the SFC i had purchased to replace the two RGS I just sold. He advised against it, but he had a set himself, and after a short while we agreed on a deal where I could buy his set. He informed me that it was either the only set in existence, or one of two. Maybe someone here can enlighten me?

First I must mention: The bike is only about 98% finished, and has not been started or ridden yet. I have been working on it almost every day for 8 month. The original target was to have it ready for the 75th in Breganze, and it was a great disappointment that I had to take the 916 to Italy. Even though it’s a fantastic bike, that I have enjoyed for 30 years (mostly on small winding roads and a lot of trackdays) it is about the worst touring bike in existence. I have always had a tendency to get lost in small details. After my brain stroke three years ago, that tendency has increased. I get mentally tired very fast, have poor concentration and memory and everyday I have to look for parts and tools etc. Therefore I found this vacation a good opportunity to write this without distractions. Naturally there will more when I have the bike on the road.
View attachment 92281


The carbon parts- tank, fairing, front fender and seat unit had a total weight of 5,05 kg, and is the perfect start for a weight reduction program.
The first thing I did was to send the tank to Ammon Tanksiegel to have the tank sealed, so it could withstand the crap modern fuel. They did a fast and efficient job.

Unfortunately almost none of the parts/jobs after this have been plug and play. In most cases it’s been a matter of very long waits (I started ordering parts last year), and the record of waiting time was 11 month. Many parts I had to modify to fit, but that is what to expect when doing such a rebuild.

Next I tried to order a set of Marvic magnesium wheels. The model I wanted is the Campagnolo. A replica of the wheel that was introduced in Grand Prix racing in 1973. Unfortunately the had lost all data for Laverda wheels, and even though a friend send his Oscams to Italy it was still a long process and the end result required modifications to the fork sliders, additional adapters under the discs and completely new distance items for the axles. The biggest regret though, is that listened to advices concerning the widths. I intended to use their max sizes for 18”- 3,00 front and 4,50 rear, but ended up ordering GSXR 1100 sizes 2,75 front and 4,00 rear.

I have for a long time been road racing on a Formula 500 (and others of non Italian background) after I blew the engine on the formula at the end of the long straight on Anderstorp. After that many trackdays on a 1199 S Panigale and the 916. I therefore wanted some rubber that was well suited for the track. Not an easy task for 18” wheels. Metzeler had unfortunately stopped the production of the Racetec RR, but after a long search I found two sets in Italy 110/80 and 150/65. Unused, but from 2019. The fit on the narrower rims now have the sides of the rubber a little to steep, and I have 6mm of spacing from the 520 chain to the tyre. I even had room to fit the chain guard without modifying it.View attachment 92282View attachment 92283View attachment 92284

The fact that it is a very rare set of carbon, have had me think long and hard about painting Bobas work. But I have since very young been a great fan of Italian vehicles, and in my opinion they should be REDView attachment 92285View attachment 92286

Therefore I ended up with a compromise: Let the lettering be kept in carbon and keep the rest of the bike red. On the front fender I added a gentleman that needs no introduction. I have had the pleasure of meeting him about 5 times- including the start-up of the V6 in his living room in 1991. I think that it’s very appropriate that he rides along.View attachment 92287View attachment 92288View attachment 92289
Awesome tribute! Bravo.
 
Nice to see the result of your hard work Niels.👌 Hope the bike will run and behave as expected, when you start ridning it🤞
 
LAVERDA 1000 SFC Superleggera Part two

The seat frame and (most of) the fairing frame is made in Aluminium and the very heavy rubber/iron part that connects it to the frame is Aluminium as well.
IMG_0722.jpeg

The instrument panel is 3mm carbon. I bought some readymade carbon sheets from 0,5 to 5mm and used them to make many different parts.
Remember to wear a mask if you do this and beware: the carbon will eat up your drills, saws etc in absolutely no time.

I made a small box that is mounted in the two 8mm holes on the upper bridge. In the middle a mount for phone/nav, to the left a switch to select different modes on the digital speedometer from Motogadget. On the left side of the box a phone charger and on the right the ignition key.

Brake- and clutch masters are Brembo Corse Corta. The two reservoirs- made for these masters and mounted directly on them, are made by Moto Corse of Italy.

The clipons are made by Mirko Messner moto. They make parts for cafe racers. I liked these and their light weight. Only available anodized black, so I had them in acid and polished for a couple of days to get the aluminum finish back. Furthermore I cut 41 mm off each clip on.

On this picture it is quite evident that the tank is nowhere near symmetrical. In fact fairing-tank-seat did not fit together at all. Took a long time cutting, sanding and drilling to make a half decent fit. First time I mounted the tank after paint the right hand bracket that is supposed to fit on the forward rubber, broke clean off- luckily the tank itself was not compromised. I will try to glue it back on using epoxy glue in a slightly higher position, to lower that side of the tank. I will probably have to extend both brackets, as they are mounted to far apart and only just reaches the tip of the rubber mounts.

The fuel caps was a bit of a nightmare to mount. On the original steel tank they bolt directly into the tank. This tank was pre drilled, but after sealing and paint the holes of course were smaller. As I did not want to compromise the sealing, I elected to use 4mm bolts. Bolt from upper side then a small o-ring to seal from inside, and just by feel. Then a small washer and finally a self locking nut, all without seeing what you are doing. Luckily I can be very patient when required- 16 bolts took an entire weekend.

The seat is very impractical. Bit of a hassle to remove, and absolutely no room for anything. At least on the RGS there was room for a chain spray and some lead additive. Also very heavy originally. I took the small pillow for your bum apart. Inside is a piece of iron 2-3 mm thick and a couple of bolts welded to it- total 136 g. I replaced it with a thin piece of carbon and alu bolts and nuts- total 11 g.

For the baggage space I went a little unconventional and build a small trunk.

IMG_0729.jpegIMG_0730.jpegIMG_0731.jpeg

After a long search for a small hinge (where I looked at car fuel hinges and others) I found this one probably for a kitchen cupboard. Funnily (but not intentional) it is labeled Made in Italy. The seat hump is fastened in the sides with two titanium quarter turn fasteners with D rings. Originally I intended to use these for all the bodywork, but due to the poor fit of the parts, I elected to go with bolts.

The one big compromise I have made is the exhaust system. I have the fine downpipes from Malcolm Cox- 38mm outside diameter, but also a bit thicker metal, and his collector box. Exhaust rings from Redax, and the stainless exhaust pipes, sometimes referred to as the Wolfgang pipes.
Actually they are made in Italy by a single guy that have now retired. It is my understanding that I bought the last set available anywhere.
I had the same pipes on my RGS for almost 240000 km, and they looked like new, when I sold the bike. The compromise of course is weight.
The complete system is just under 400g heavier than the original one. With Jota pipes and thinner downpipes a saving of close to 4 kg could have been achieved. Sound is very important to me, and I newer liked what came out of the Jotas. The stainless pipes gives a very deep “throaty” sound. Without the air filter and box and with 36 mm carbs and inlets and bigger downpipes and collector I expect it to be perfect.IMG_0646.jpegIMG_0746.jpeg
 
A few grams can be saved with a Pro-Bolt fork stem nut. It would look nice with your Aluminum bits and pieces.

delme laverda jota yoke top nut alloy.jpg
I can't remember the part number, but measure the thread and then search for 'Honda' (as they have used the same thread).
 
Thanks Haggis, you are absolutely right👍 In fact I have I quite a few bits from ProBolt already. Did you drill the hole, or was it made like this?
 
👍. The hole is already there. Photo is 'as supplied'.

I have no fairing, so use the hole to mount my sat-nav mounting ball.
 
LAVERDA SFC 1000 Part three

For carbs I went for Mikuni TMR 36- they are making less mechanical noise than the wider used RS 36 model. I looked for a long time for a pod filter for them, and even considered open aluminum velocity stacks. In the end I found the solution with Mirko Messner Moto. Tripple velocity stacks that you wrapped a 10 mm thick filter around.



IMG_0560.jpeg

With a bleeding heart I cut the Mikuni alu velocity stacks in two, so the inner part could work as a mounting point as seen above. He asked me which diameter I wanted and when I said 40mm, he replied: ok we will print them at 40,1mm! They weigh less than 20g each before you wrap the filter around, and give it a little oil.

IMG_0610.jpeg

Only trouble is the right hand lower edge of the crooked tank is touching the filter- I will find a solution.

The third and last time I used Mirkos clever solutions, was with the item below

IMG_0582.png

He makes these to fit into a carbon tube of 10mm OD 8mm ID. Each pair comes in a left and a right thread version. You just cut the tube to the length you want, put epoxy glue in the end of the tube and press these items all the way in. Do try it before you add glue, to make sure that it will fit. He supplies the tubes as well, but they are quite dull. I found a place where I could buy 1m of more shiny tubing. Holding the ends of that, I could hardly bent it at all- amazing
IMG_0742.jpeg

For brake discs front I went for the 320 mm from a Ducati 998R- because it had 15mm offset. I had been given the good advice of finding M1R sliders from a bike that used 320mm and 4-pots, like an early 851. First try went wrong but the second time around I found two complete fork legs from a bike that had been prepared for Tony Rutter many years ago. The sliders did fit perfectly to the new brake parts. I did consider using the complete legs due to the possibility for adjustment, but they are 65mm shorter than the standard SFC. I am already having the tried and tested 40mm of legs above the top bridge, but 65?

IMG_0705.jpeg

Rear disc is a 220 mm from a mid 1990 Yamaha XT something- Tenere type. I made the bracket for the caliper out of 5mm carbon, and connected the arm from it to the frame instead of the original position on the swing arm.

IMG_0736.jpeg



IMG_0635.jpegIMG_0740.jpeg


The 6 engine rubber mounts I bought from Michael Stöcker in Germany. Fairly expensive, but it’s probably about time to change them, and they give a weight saving of 1,7 kg. Also a little is shown from the large battery box i made for a very small battery, leaving plenty of room for tools, chain spray and even a rainsuit- Directly accessible from the outsideIMG_0745.jpeg
 
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Thanks Andre- I did not, but have been waiting for that question to come up😉
What I have done, is to weigh most items going off and on the bike, and the preliminary result surprises me a bit
Until now the bike has lost 51.011 kg. Starting point was a dry weight of 237,4 kg, according to Das Motorrad that I trust.
That means it is now on 186,4 kg which is amazing.

However not all things was measured- either to difficult or I forgot. So the following items will further increase the weight loss:
Slimmer brake lines and Aluminium fittings
Lots of bolts and rubber mounts- I have a box of them
Titanium bolts used in quite a few places
Oil cooler carbon mount
Brake and clutch masters (I presume the new ones are lighter?)
Alu spacers instead of iron on all three axles

There could be more, but it will add (subtract🙃) at least a couple af kg more
 
186 Kg would be a really good result for a street SFC! I once built a triple race bike and the weigth was about 190 kg but without starter and generator.
I also used the SFC engine and selfmade engine mounts and all bigger screws M8 and bigger made of Titan, tank from Boba and GSXR wheels and…..
Good luck with the finish.
Andre
 
Nils, great write-up and a really great result so far! I like the "trunk" you created, very good Idea!

If you like a bit more comfort on the bike, you could just turn the handlebars potentially just 180° so that the handle is not in front of the fork but behind (check for space to the tank!). That would give you a bit more touring-comfort. Sometimes it is just that 2 cm... ;)

will be interesting what the bike feels like when it's running. I suppose it will go like hell and turn much, much better!

For the fork, you could consider upgrading to a compression/rebound system. I haven't tried them yet, but as they do sets for BMW 41,7mm forks, there is a fair chance they fit into a Laverda fork, too...:


There used to be a company in Germany, too, doing this kind of modifications for a long time (HH-Racetech), but they closed last year. I have had 2 forks made by them, very good quality...!

All the best and tell us more about your bike while you progress! And have a great vacation!! :)
 
Wow, 51kg and counting is pretty amazing - we'll need to see the readout on the scale before we sign off on that Andre 🤣 🤣 🤣

A question about your carbon rear caliper bracket - does it have a central bearing or bush to allow it to rotate on the axle as the swingarm travels up and down? And with the mounting outboard of the centreline of the disc i think you'll find it is pulling out of line when the brake is operated. The first floating bracket I made had the pivot bearing outboard of the centreline and I clearly had the pads wearing at an angle, which was evidence that the forces were not aligned.

My solution was to have the bearing in a small housing inboard and bolted to the main bracket so that it aligned perfectly with the torque arm - see pics below. You should aim to have the caliper bracket bearing, the disc and both ball joint ends in a straight line. But I can see from your setup that this won't be possible as there is no offset on the rear disc. You would need to make a disc carrier that places the disc outboard so there was room for a centred bearing or bush. i spent too many hours manufacturing my carrier - a milling machine would have helped - I did it all on my little Emco lathe with makeshift milling attachments.hub+disc flange.jpeg

Rerar caliper under.jpgRear caliper carrier.jpg
 
SOME ANSWERS:

Preben: Thanks for the kind words- I sincerely hope to have it ready in a couple of weeks. Unfortunately my previous judgements of time required have been way off🙃




sfc vintage (Peder Heise): Do you really expect me to buy anything from you after you tried to sell me a 40 year old ignition system for 240€?
I told you then that the proper place for it was the scrap yard. Please don’t contact me again. Besides, I don’t do Aluminium sprockets- only titanium
IMG_0713.jpeg





Lothar: Thanks for your clever remarks and suggestions👍
The only bike I ever changed clipons for the sake of comfort was the 916. It was very extreme: riding in the city was painfull, and you needed to go 150 km/h before your body weight was balanced by the wind. I still suffered for 20 years before I changed to a set that was about an inch wider and higher. And you are right 2 cm can make a great difference😊 I don’t think that the riding position will be very different from standard, except that have made the new set a bit more narrow- hopefully the better turning ability will compensate for that.
Regarding Andreani: I had some contact with them. Unfortunately the guy I had contact with knew next to nothing about the cartridge kit, so I kind of forgot about it. I will contact them again.



piranha-bro2: I am convinced, that you are absolutely right about centerline mounting is the way to go, but as you say, it is really not possible with a disc without offset. There is no bearing mounted. I have re-used the original bush that was made for the 10 mm thick alu bracket.
IMG_0636.jpeg
Seen here with the iron spacers. Next to the left spacer you see the large diameter part of the bush.Then under the carbon bracket the diameter is smaller for 10 mm (thickness of the original) until it touches the right spacer. Carbon is 5 mm thick and the hole is slightly larger than the bush. To compensate for the thinner carbon, I made a small ring of carbon also 5mm thick, to keep the bracket and caliper in the correct position. Before mounting the arm the caliper could swing completely without resistance around the lower part of the disc.
 
„sfc vintage (Peder Heise): Do you really expect me to buy anything from you after you tried to sell me a 40 year old ignition system for 240€?
I told you then that the proper place for it was the scrap yard. Please don’t contact me again. Besides, I don’t do Aluminium sprockets- only titanium“

Harsh words in the forum, we should avoid it.

Technically, good Al material for sprockets is very reliable and safe weight 2,8 vs 4,5!
Andre
 
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