LAVERDA 1000 SFC Superleggera Part one

„sfc vintage (Peder Heise): Do you really expect me to buy anything from you after you tried to sell me a 40 year old ignition system for 240€?
I told you then that the proper place for it was the scrap yard. Please don’t contact me again. Besides, I don’t do Aluminium sprockets- only titanium“

Harsh words in the forum, we should avoid it.

Technically, good Al material for sprockets is very reliable and safe weight 2,8 vs 4,5!
Andre
Concur. PM probably best.
 
piranha-bro2: I am convinced, that you are absolutely right about centerline mounting is the way to go, but as you say, it is really not possible with a disc without offset. There is no bearing mounted. I have re-used the original bush that was made for the 10 mm thick alu bracket.
Seen here with the iron spacers. Next to the left spacer you see the large diameter part of the bush.Then under the carbon bracket the diameter is smaller for 10 mm (thickness of the original) until it touches the right spacer. Carbon is 5 mm thick and the hole is slightly larger than the bush. To compensate for the thinner carbon, I made a small ring of carbon also 5mm thick, to keep the bracket and caliper in the correct position. Before mounting the arm the caliper could swing completely without resistance around the lower part of the disc.
Thanks for the explication, Andre. You've done what you can in terms of compromise. Is there any way you can get the carbon mounting bracket fitted to the inside of the caliper? That way at least your bush and rod would be closer to the centreline. One advantage of an alu bracket is that it can be threaded to allow the mounting bolts to be fitted from outside-to-in. When you have time a total solution is possible but it means making a carrier-spacer to move the disc out and offer space for the bush to sit more centrally. I think my alu bracket and small bearing is very light, and fitted with Ti bolts.

disc flange1.jpeg
 
Here’s what I did with my rear brake setup. Calipers hanger, calipers and disc are all Zane Laverda rear fitment. Custom disc carrier was made by a machinist friend of mine mimicking the original disc offset dimensions of the standard rear setup. This setup has performed beautifully on my 80 Jota for many years now, benefits being a lot less weight and replacement discs and pads are readily available 😊
TomIMG_0045.jpegIMG_0037.jpegIMG_0045.jpegIMG_0037.jpeg
 
It depends also on how much you use the rear brake. For me it is just for parking areas and slow on loose surfaces, the pads virtually never wear so not worth a lot of time, effort and money. Modern racers use it to control rear wheel slides.
 
I find a working rear brake very useful when out braking someone in a straight line, plus it’s handy to have in the wet, road or track, when an over aggressive application of the front brake almost certainly results in an unwanted grass-sky-grass-sky moment. 🙃
 
looks like a great option, too. One need to make sure both the Andriani and the Matrix are long enough to cope with the quite long Laverda M1R version. Best is to check with the seller which bikes they were made for and compare the length of these forks with the standard length of the Laverda-fork I'd say.

cheapest I could find the Matris for:

 
Hi Nils, very impressed with your work, very nice bike. I am interested in the engine mounts you have used, for my 120 jota.
Michael Stecher in Germany. - do you have contact details? Has anybody else used these? How does the vibration feel? My mounts are original, the rubber has gone very hard, the vibes are ok at 4000 rpm and above, but around town it is terrible.
Cheers
Marty
 
LAVERDA 1000 SFC Superleggera Part four

IMG_6709.jpeg

It is well known that Redax makes some really nice stuff for Laverda, and I am certainly interested in the parts as well. I quite easily bought the exhaust rings and angled 36 mm intakes, as JLO had them in stock. I had seen pictures of the fork brace they produced. Really good looking, but not made for the SFC, even though people had requested it for +10 years on this forum. When you look at the flimsy standard “brace”, it’s not difficult to understand why.
I wrote to Red and asked him to produce a small series of them. I offered to buy 5, as I could easily have sold the other 4 on to people I knew.
Red was not interested, as the nearest SFC was 2000 km away from him.
I was lucky again and found a second hand example, made for a smaller fork. The M1R has a diameter that’s 5 mm larger than the holes in the brace, so they had to be increased in size. It’s a quite heavy item and the increased bore, reduced the weight from 559 g to 487 g.

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The carbon front fender was predrilled for the flimsy brace, so I closed those before paint.
Next I had to find an alternate way of mounting the fender.

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The parts in the top of the picture is for the small box for ignition key etc.
The four parts below are 5 mm thick. I glued them together two and two to double the thickness. Then I drilled from the arch and out,
Countersunk four small bolts, drilled two holes in the sides of the fender, and the new brackets were ready. It worked like a charm,
but very fiddly to make.

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New bracket for the seat pillow- 11 g compared to 136 for the original.


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Before paint


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Made in 🇮🇹



Tank not symmetrical

12IMG_6609.jpeg

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Battery box
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ANSWERS:

Arne K. Thanks for the nice words- it was a pleasure meeting you😊

Andre G: This project has made me well aware of the density of metals. Yes aluminum is lighter, but titanium stronger, and you use a lot less

1200ts: Thanks for the tip- now two solutions to check out👍

ozijotati: Very clever and useful setup you have there

Tippie, Lothar, Andy jp: We all know the what’s important. Sometimes we need those extra 10-20% from the rear brake. I will see how it works
And decide whether a change is needed. Tippie: Nice to meet you on the train- hope your problem with tank damage was sorted satisfactory

martymoose: sport-connection.de The engine mounts are quite expensive, but will save you 1,7 kg for the 6 mounts
 
Hi Nils, very impressed with your work, very nice bike. I am interested in the engine mounts you have used, for my 120 jota.
Michael Stecher in Germany. - do you have contact details? Has anybody else used these? How does the vibration feel? My mounts are original, the rubber has gone very hard, the vibes are ok at 4000 rpm and above, but around town it is terrible.
Cheers
Marty
Hi Marty,
engine mounts you can buy at Michael Stöcker, Fürth, Germany
 
LAVERDA 1000 SFC Superleggera Part five

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Swingarm spacers. Iron 334 g. Aluminium 95 g




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Spacers to make the forward discs and wheels fit


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Before installing the 3,5 mm thick spacers the calipers made contact with the wheel spokes


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You spend so much effort, time and money and use the crappiest electrical connectors known to mankind?? :eek:

piet
Positive as always Piet🙃
I started with a mention that about 2% of the work is missing- the majority being electrics. The lousy work was done about 20 years ago.
A professional electrician will make it right. Have a little faith ffs
 
looks like a great option, too. One need to make sure both the Andriani and the Matrix are long enough to cope with the quite long Laverda M1R version. Best is to check with the seller which bikes they were made for and compare the length of these forks with the standard length of the Laverda-fork I'd say.

cheapest I could find the Matris for:

The main issue of the M1R Forks is not the damping system in my opinion, they are sticky and do not slide. I changed to BMW K1100 fork, longer down tubes and much better performance, same dia 41,7mm.
 
The best stiction fix I have found are these. But you need to cross-reference the size to get a correct fit.Expensive but way better

 
The best stiction fix I have found are these. But you need to cross-reference the size to get a correct fit.Expensive but way better

As fay as I looked for them, they are not available for 41,7 mm ☹️
 
Here’s what I did with my rear brake setup. Calipers hanger, calipers and disc are all Zane Laverda rear fitment. Custom disc carrier was made by a machinist friend of mine mimicking the original disc offset dimensions of the standard rear setup. This setup has performed beautifully on my 80 Jota for many years now, benefits being a lot less weight and replacement discs and pads are readily available 😊
TomView attachment 92398View attachment 92399View attachment 92398View attachment 92399
Very tidy, Tom.
 
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