Paul LeClair new project and 1982 Mirage 1200 TS Series 2 FOR SALE

got back to the Moto Guzzi V 10 Centauro project today after not touching it through Christmas and New years. New cam belts sorted, guessed on belt tensioning based on manual instructions to pre stretch and tension with a torque wrench with special tool that I don't have. I put a bit of pretension on the belts and called it good after I confirmed cam timing to crank TDC.. In the photos it can be seen I simply removed entire front end and front subframe of the bike. Looking at the front of the engine, the engine rotates "clockwise", I was using a socket and ratchet on the crank nut sticking through the alternator to rotate the engine to check all the timing marks. Manual was very helpful in sorting out timing.
 

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while sorting cam belt and cam timing on the 1997 V10 Centauro I had to be sure of actual measured TDC on left cylinder compression stroke with all 4 valves fully closed on left cylinder. Found real TDC with a piston stop and degree wheel. Factory TDC mark on the crank was bang on accurate, nice surprise.

Measured cold valve clearances intake and exhaust, all clearances as found were very "generous". I have never heard this bike run so I have no idea if valve train was noisy or not, but I spent some time getting all 8 valves valves to factory prescribed clearances. Looks odd seeing a 4 valve head on a Guzzi.....
 

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It is warm enough here I can get to my Centauro and pull the pipes off tomorrow. Then I can package them up with the crossover and ship them off to you. I will include the belt tensioner so you can recheck the belts then send it back another day. I can also include the german language manuals I have for the Centauro. No use to me.

I can't recall if the valvetrain is noisy because the exhaust is fairly loud. The gearbox is clunky and the clutch is rattly. I haven't driven it for a few years but it was fun and had a heck of a power rush from 5,000 to 9,000 rpm.

Jim

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Hi Steve

great suggestion, but way over the top for this particular project. Shipping of the forks to USA and back, the costsof rebuild in USD, etc., when I don't even know yet if and how the bike runs......, I suspect I am going to offer this Centauro for sale in the spring, I have my eye on a 2023 Moto Guzzi V100 Mandello S in green/silver, was talking to the local dealer yesterday about placing a refundable deposit for delivery in April, 2023, we'll see. Looks good in the photos and videos, but need to actually touch one and sit on one before deciding.

I am still pursuing a downsizing and rationalizing garage agenda, I have various of my bikes for sale, intending to reduce to maybe three bikes total....... Someone really needs to make me an offer on the 1982 Laverda 1200 TS Mirage Series 2, it is absolutely gorgeous and perfect, but i am keeping my 79 1200 and I don't need two very similar bikes...... ;)
I understand your thoughts Paul. I have had ‘ garage resident duplication’ and have adjusted the residents to a more varied selection. It makes perfect sense to me. BTW, I do not consider a 180 Laverda and a 120 Laverda to be duplication.
 
I understand your thoughts Paul. I have had ‘ garage resident duplication’ and have adjusted the residents to a more varied selection. It makes perfect sense to me. BTW, I do not consider a 180 Laverda and a 120 Laverda to be duplication.
I don't do duplication either! Triplication +....:p
 
HelipcopterJim lent me the MotoGuzzi cam belt tensioning tool, and sold me a Marvic X pipe and a pair of mufflers. Thanks, Jim! I could not source the cam belt tensioning tool to buy anywhere. I am going to investigate having it reproduced, it does not have to take much torque, I bet it could be scanned and successfully 3D printed, we'll see. Will ship the tool back to Jim shortly,

Tool arrived recently. Got out to the garage today. Special tool easy to use with a torque wrench. Set engine to TDC, make sure the cam belt timing marks are lined up, loosen off the relevant fasteners, slide the tool onto the post and lock the tensioner bearing bolt head, apply specified torque to the bolt on the special tool that then torques the belt tensioner roller. Hold the torque while tightening the relevant fasteners, do the other side, done!

Couple of photos.
 

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Nicely done! I can only remember it was easy when I used it ..... but now I have a reference should I forget more.
Glad to see that boat anchor from under the bike has been removed. Almost worse that the 73-75 SF crossover.

Carry on!

Jim
 
slowly moving along, I am mostly using new stainless steel fasteners, although cleaning, derusting, and reusing the high strength steel bolts for the front and rear subframes etc.. Valve clearances dialed in, new cam belts properly tensioned, new gaskets and O rings as I go. Next to reinstall the front subframe

last evening my spouse caught me putting some greasy grimy engine cover bits into the dishwasher, had to compromise for the kitchen sink and then spent as much time cleaning out the sink after as I did actually cleaning the parts.......;):ROFLMAO:
 

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more progress after work to day. Forks buttoned up with new seals (gave up on finding new bushings), put the forks, fender, and front wheel on and got the bike back on its wheels. Now taking the oil pan off to get at the oil pump etc., but turns out about 1/3 of the fasteners holding the sump on have the heads stripped. Packed in in for the evening. Likely going to have to get the MIG welder out and weld bolts to the stripped heads as I had to do when I removed the brake discs. However, not a lot of room around the sump so walking away before I wreck something, will think on how to deal with this next obstacle :rolleyes: :(;)
 

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If they are allen heads it can sometimes work by banging in a torx.
yeah, I already tried banging in imperial size, then TORX, the allan heads are now mush and the fasteners are still seized solid. Welding seems to work reasonably well, likely partially at least because of the heat. Was easier to access the frozen/seized Allan heads on the brake rotors but I expect I will be able to get these sump case bolts out one way or the other.

will be replacing with stainless fasteners.
 
yeah, I already tried banging in imperial size, then TORX, the allan heads are now mush and the fasteners are still seized solid. Welding seems to work reasonably well, likely partially at least because of the heat. Was easier to access the frozen/seized Allan heads on the brake rotors but I expect I will be able to get these sump case bolts out one way or the other.

will be replacing with stainless fasteners.
Is this ‘a thing’ with the quality of the fasteners, or had someone been in there before and tightened them up way too much?
 
Is this ‘a thing’ with the quality of the fasteners, or had someone been in there before and tightened them up way too much?

I haven't had any problem with those same fasteners on my 2001 V11 but I know Big Gord had issues back in the day that he reckoned were previous owners. Lots of people wouldn't be bothered to get the wrench to access the oil filter so they dropped the pan (lots of guys were scared of doing it the easy way and having a filter come loose.). Probably a few ham fisted chaps gronched a few bikes along the way.

Jim
 
I haven't had any problem with those same fasteners on my 2001 V11 but I know Big Gord had issues back in the day that he reckoned were previous owners. Lots of people wouldn't be bothered to get the wrench to access the oil filter so they dropped the pan (lots of guys were scared of doing it the easy way and having a filter come loose.). Probably a few ham fisted chaps gronched a few bikes along the way.

Jim
Yes for sure. My 10 yr ownership of my new purchase 2001 V11 Sport entailed a lot of problems associated with poor engineering and lack of R&D to most everything, except the base engine itself, the pushrod 2 valve engine, which was solid as a brick. Only once did I pull the oil pan off, mainly just to have a look around, as my model had an access port for the spin on oil filter. Never had an issue with any fasteners on the base engine.
The rest of the bike!! OMG. Love/hate!!
 
every one of the sump bolts are rusty, roughly 1/3 already had the heads stripped out, someone definitely there before me, I have been dealing with various other butchered fasteners, cut electrical, etc..... For the rust, the bike must have lived near the ocean or something, bloody hell.

On another topic, have tried everywhere to buy a new pair of injectors. Harpers Moto Guzzi has ONE in stock. Any one have any suggestions for a source for a pair?
 
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