Rear Shocks

I have one of those telescopic magnetic pick-up tools. It picks up the centre bolt of the emulator. I have to slip a bit of rubber hose over the magnetic head so it doesn't stick to the side of the fork tube on the way down. Been meaning to make up a proper plastic spacer to centre the magnet in the fork tube, but never got around to it.
 
Wouldn't it be much easier if you install an all-threaded rod instead of the screw, long enough that you can grap it if you take out the springs and compress the fork fully and make two nuts on top of that rod, counter-fasten each other so that you still can turn it? Or a very long screw instead? Or anything that can be adapted from modern forks that have adjuster screws on top of the fork caps?

Just a thought...
 
I've finally got around to fitting my goldvalves and new springs in 38 Cerianis on SF2 now that it is winter workshop time.
Static sag just under 20mm with 20mm preload on 9kg springs. Has anybody any experience with Racetech springs as regards settling in and sagging over time?
Isn't it the idea that comp damping is adjustable by preloading the spring on the goldvalve?
Feels like very weak return damping with 10wt oil so will try 15wt. Also there is a lot of noise from the spring scraping in the stanchion.
A note; Racetech show drilling the holes in the damper rod above and below the existing comp oil hole. The bottom out cone will mask the lower holes so they need to be above the existing hole to give the unrestricted oilflow from the goldvalve.
Cannot test ride it until spring.
Try one of these from the auto accessory shop for fishing things out of bastard places.
http://www.biltema.no/no/Bil---MC/Verktoy-og-verkstedutstyr/Tang/Boybar-gripearm/
if the link works.
 
Hey Tippy, I've got Racetech springs and haven't noticed any sagging over time, about 8 years. I run 15w oil as I like it on the firm side.
You'll be impressed with the improvement the valves and spring make to our old forks.
 
compression damping on the race tech emulators is done by preload on the emulator spring
there are two springs with different rates
blue is 40# and yellow is 65#
std preload is 2 turns
i tend to set up triples with heavy riders at 3 turns on blue springs for road use

older emulators had a single bypass hole
the 3801's and 3802's now have two for low speed bypass
and two add'l dimples for adding more holes (total of 4)
(seems the average harley riders like a bit plusher ride)
offhand i want to say they are close to a #34 drill bit diameter

rebound is controlled by oil viscosity 15W is what virtually all the usa vintage bike racers are running
matt, race techs ops mgr, is normally at all the major AHRMA events helping dial in front ends


rob, race tech can rebuild your WP unit
or sell you the tools to overhaul it yourself
or make you a new one

most of the custom damper builders can work off what you have or dimensions and weights
they don't need the complete bike. you can see on sites like racetech or works performance
generic pdf pages for custom shock building. most are for twin damper set ups but they do mono's too


lothar, i've scratched my head over this one
best i can think of is a square section rod from the top that fits inside a similar shape tube
attached to the emulator. what i haven't sorted is holding the threaded bolt so the nut can be turned by the rod
then i got sidetracked ...i hadn't thought about it in awhile
 
So does anyone know what the shocks on the RGS that is heading across the Specific Ocean are? Black with yellow bits.

29dwrc3.jpg

2vci8ly.jpg


 
Drikko

Look like OLD S&Ws to me. Not bad shocks in their day but they did wear out pretty quickly, and you can't rebuild them (not economically, anyway). Very popular in the US. I think I have a pair that might fit, but they're probably worn out too, I've never tried them. If you want I can bring them to the next Concours.

Ken
 
S&W's were a brilliant shock in their day. It's a shame they didn't stay in the game. They were a quality shock that got used on everything from street bikes to GP racers. Koni's were the other choice and still are. That's why I bought Gazi's.

Someone told me years ago that Progressive Suspension was the reincarnation of S&W. I've no idea what they're shocks are like though.

Nice looking bike Drikko.

Chris
 
Rob,

Just remembered. Have you tried R.A.D shock repairs in Brisbane 07 38926493. They fix anything and don't charge the earth.


Chris
 
Think I once brought a set of S&Ws for my old SF2 back in the 70s. Them and Konis were the only after market options back then IIRC, in Perth anyway!!

Chris, I spoke with RAD last week about having my BM stanchions rechromed, comparing the cost with what some hard chroming companies I called in Perth want, $150 each compared to $400 makes their price very reasonable.
The Perth companies obviously do alot of work for mining companies so can get away with exorbitant prices.
I'll ask them about the WP as well then. In the long term I'd like to replace the shock altogether. It is over 22 years old and covered over 90k kms.
 
Rob,

I called them this arvo and they reminded me that the two RAD's are separate businesses. One does the hard chroming the other specialises in shocks.

There are two other places in Briso Steve Woods @ Suspension Improvements and Paul Berrick MPE http://www.mpesuspension.com.au/

I've used Steve and have no complaints. The other bloke is apparently a lot cheaper but I don't know anything about him.

Chris
 
I've used RAD Hard Chroming extensively, great couple of guys.
Not uncommon for me to drop off 6 x fork legs in one hit.
They nearly lost all their kit when the wool store burnt down a few years ago, their business then was in one corner of the wool store on the lower level.

I have also used RAD Shock rebuilding, once.
Never again.
Dropped a set of Marzocchi piggy backs off for a refurb, what a mess when I picked them up.
Looked like they had attacked the top with a large cold chiesel and hammer, bodies looked like they had been dressed with a rat tail file.
They had not even bothered to give them a paint job, wankers.
And cost serious $'s
Still have these shocks stored in the workshop if anyone wants a set of rebuilt Marzocchi shocks.

Red
 
Thanks for the offer Ken, we'll see what they are like when it gets here.

I've used RAD to rechrome forks too and can recommend them. They'll have a go at straighteniong them too but only if they aren't kinked.

Whats in a shock that can't be rebuilt at home anyway? I mean surely it's just seals and new oil? A gas one would probably be too hard but an oil shock should be DIYable?
 
Drikko,
My mate rebuilds all his Konis at home. It's just a seals kit and a special tool to unscrew the top cap which can be made with using basic tools and materials. Piece of piss. S&W fron the same vintage shouldn't be any different, I'm assuming!!
 
redax5 said:
I have also used RAD Shock rebuilding, once.
Never again.
Dropped a set of Marzocchi piggy backs off for a refurb, what a mess when I picked them up.
Looked like they had attacked the top with a large cold chiesel and hammer, bodies looked like they had been dressed with a rat tail file.
They had not even bothered to give them a paint job, wankers.
And cost serious $'s
Still have these shocks stored in the workshop if anyone wants a set of rebuilt Marzocchi shocks.

Red
Click to expand...

I know a lot disagree with this but we need to hear this sort of stuff.

Chris
 
XBCoupeJota said:
Put them on eBay as rare Ducati 900SS Marzocchi Shocks and you'll more than get your money back. Bevel heads love this stuff.
Click to expand...

Not all Bevelheads. I took the piggyback Marzo's off my bevel Duc. Replaced 'em with YSS - one of the best mods I did to the bike. I always thought that bike had an uncomfortable seat, but it was mainly the harsh suspension kicking me in the arse. The seat is passably comfortable with decent suspension.

The old Marzo's are in a box on the shelf, they're waiting for the day when I'm too old to get a leg over (the bike) and have to pass the Duc on to the next generation. Might make it worth a few bucks more to some Ducati nut who wants to restore it to original.

Cheers,
Cam
 
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