Perhaps you are riding on different roads through these times. Some types of road surface are far more abrasive than others, especially in Australia where the norm out in the country is bitumen seal, where they spray wet molten tar and pour a layer of specified size gravel/stones over it to stick into the tar, as compared to hot mix type surface.
Starman, your english grammar is good. Not only do you know how to spell tyre, but you don't use apostrophes on plurals.
It is fairly straightforward to jig up some rear sets for your SF, I seem to recall that the Tarozzi ones are available to buy and fit. Both my SF2 are converted to rear disc, as it seems that getting a neat and effective setup for the rear drum brake can be a challenge. For both of mine I have used triangle plates held in place with small welded on steel brackets that could be easily removed if so desired, and used modified pegs and levers from SF3 that were available at the time when they were available as they had pivots and stuff meant for crossover linkages.
It must have been great experience getting up close to those LSR attempts.
Thank you, you are too kind!
regarding rearsets for my SF, I am going the triangular alloy insert path, (clamped in place by contoured alloy blocks behind, that mirror the tube profile)
I just found and purchased some tarozzi folding foot pegs, with matching levers, and I have some nice bits of 8mm and 10mm alloy plate in my workshop stockpile.
i am keeping the rear drum brake, (front is a drum also, the first laverda type) as i am quite happy with them, they are the best drum brakes Iāve ever had on a motorcycle. The twin SLS front drum on my ā74 Ducati desmo single was my previous benchmark of excelence, but due on no part to the little 250ās light weight.
I rode it to the Isle of Man in 1978 with my then best buddy (now brother in law!). He was riding his triumph Tiger 100, both of us side by side flat out down to Creg-ny-Bar, both pretending we were Mike Hailwoodā¦I could easily outbrake him, he said there was daylight under my rear tyre as I sailed past.
i need a short lever to fit the gear change splined shaft , like Iāve seen fitted to an SFC in photographs. If anyone has one to sell??
I have some nice stainless bar 10mm dia to make the connecting rod, and two M6 spherical rod end joints. For the rear brake cable, I will either turn up steel cable end stop on my lathe and weld it to the frame, or I may machine up an alloy block that will clamp to the frame tube near the bottom R/H corner of the side panel To act as the cable outer end stop.
Im studying as many photographs as I can find to see how others have done it.
Btw, i still have that 250, but I was a mad 21 yr old and weighed just 125lbs then!
Iām curious, can anyone tell me, is the later type laverda drum even better than my earlier laverda drum? Or similar?
how do they compare?
If anyone has any sage advice for me, as, although I have other 70ās Italian classics, my SF is my first Laverda, so I am all ears and grateful for any hard earned wisdom.
thanks for any input,
martyn.
) I managed to retain the std SF1 pegs and rotate them back on their splines then rig up a bracket off the swingarm axle that the gear lever could pivot from, then a simple linkage. I cutand inch or a bit more off the brake pedal and had the foot plate rewelded on without even discolouring the chrome. It kept things fairly stock (only the shorter brake pedal was permanent change).
