Weird

Good man, re wire to +12 while problem is ongoing. Now that you have a terminal block to access the 3 phase alternator output, with engine running, call those terminals U V W DMM test on AC volts non Auto range ie 200V or what have you, U to V, V to W, W to V. Certain DMM exhibit frequency issues, 1000-2000rpm should not tax the f response of the AC operation, though something to keep in mind.

Lab note; making DC measurements, use a common reference point for the DMM, i recommend the negative terminal of the battery, croc clip flying lead may assist. Bizarre as it may seem, repeat the U V W test only this time use the DMM negative reference point, just mentioned, and the positive red test probe as the flying test lead, test U V W, on DC and then on AC ranges on the DMM. Let me know what those readings are Rob, as demands allow. HTH j.
 
motoddrob said:
yep sense wire direct, climbed slowly to 13.5, same reading across the batt terminals as well as the upstream + - spade terminals on the RR
What were you painting, acrylic laquer?? Been breathing that stuff all my working life modelmaking
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Guilty as charged, Acrylic based paints, though had a mid market double canister mask, loved my old Sundstrom mask when painting the Laverda's. Painting the roof on HiAce van, large area and difficult to reach from the sides. Needs must these days, old van up for rego check today...j
 
Morning John, off to Albany today so that's today fucked. Will get back onto it tomorrow.
Just to clarify, test the 3 combinations motor running at the terminal block in AC mode, RR connected or disconnected??
Not quite sure about your Lab note, so neg probe to Battery neg, + probe to U then V then W, in AC and then DC, motor running???
AC output from alt, but check in DC mode with neg probe on battery????
Apologies for being somewhat thick but electrics are a challenge for me.
When I was getting 14.5v the rate that it climbed from 13.3 was way too slow in my thinking so wasn't confident that it was working correctly.
Appreciate your help in helping solve this mind fuck.
 
All connections as per road riding Rob, disconnect nothing, RR connected to battery. Not concerned about slow battery rising voltage, have to monitor the charge current being drawn by the Li battery, could be significant and dropping the RR output as it recovers from cold crank start, guess from this distance. Yes AC and DC measurements for the 3 yellow wires on the terminal block. Looking for 3 readings equal or close to one another, the test "AC" while connected to battery negative is for another time explanation....off to rego check, wish me luck...j
 
How did you go with rego check John?
just got back from Albany, it's a big day going there for shopping, spend a fortune but then I don't need to go shopping for another couple of months.
Tomorrow morning will get back onto the charging system. Will do those test you mentioned and report back.
 
Get to drive around for another year, gods be praised, 1994 Hiace, with usual windscreen area rust issues....tah for asking. Indeed shopping puts the finances in peril, best part is not banged up and into a nursing home, everything else is win, no matter the degree of difficulty in a day....be around on and off tomorrow....j
 
Good news re hiace van
Ok John
AC mode @2000
UV 8.1~
UW 7.8~
WV 12.5~
DC mode @2000
Neg probe to battery neg
+probe to U 0.53~
V 5.2~
W 5.2~
AC mode @ 2000
Neg probe to battery neg
+ probe to U 0.8~
V 7.6~
W 7.5~
So it looks to me that U has a problem
Thoughts?
 
Well done Rob, agree U yellow wire needs investigating, open circuit somewhere, if real unlucky in a terminal block the insulation becomes clamped and not the actual striped conductor tail, or "floats" in the tunnel ie intermittent contact. Hard to see inside a terminal block when mounted on a substrate. Have a good looky see... j
 
There is one more test i omitted for clarity, similar to DMM negative fly lead probe to battery negative, positive to U V W on DC and AC ranges on the DMM, this time it will be DMM positive probe to battery positive and the DMM negative probe to U V W DC and AC. This pair of tests will indicate the state of the 6 pulse rectifier diodes inside the RR, under operating conditions. See a new post has come in...read it now...j
 
Ok Rob, there has to be a balanced AC input volts to the RR, as i understand it, from your tests, the reading for AC U V W yellow wires are not balanced. Perhaps a DC resistance check between the yellow wires from the stator, the RR ought not effect this test, if left connected. Hope this is helping, j
 
Ok will do those test
Just swapped the stator U wire with W
U 0.4 V 4.8 W 4.8
Sort of tells me the problem is down stream.

+ probe to battery +
DC U 13 V 8.7 W 8.5
AC U 0.68 V 7.5 W 7.5
 
DC resistant check between the stator wires.
Sorry for being dumb but how do I do that?
Seems to me that U is not behaving!!
Swapping U and W I would have thought the low readings would have changed from U to W if the problem was up stream
 
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motoddrob said:
DC resistant check between the stator wires.
Sorry for being dumb but how do I do that?
Seems to me that U is not behaving!!
Swapping U and W I would have thought the low readings would have changed from U to W if the problem was up stream
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Agree on your last sentence, should U be the problem then the low volts would have followed to the "W" Position of the terminal block. Though much depends on whether the actual poly phase winding are wired Delta or Y configuration, the voltage readings are relative to one another, if one arm is open then two out of the three line voltages will be effected. Bless Nikola Tesla cotton insulated socks. More...just having dinner... or laughingly called dinner...self cooked, electrics check, cooking deplorable..j
 
Still cooking, DC resistance is DMM on ohms, low ohms range, U to V V to W W to U and a quick check to battery negative and engine casing to any of the U V W on high ohms, latter is checking for leakage or magnetic flywheel contacting damaged wires or insulation, should be open circuit or over 100K Ohms. no insult Rob all is fair in fault diagnosis.... The latter test will indicate a shorted to engine casing line or in the this case U, though this kind of testing is more complex than a short explanation here j
 
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motoddrob said:
Ok will do those test
Just swapped the stator U wire with W
U 0.4 V 4.8 W 4.8
Sort of tells me the problem is down stream.

+ probe to battery +
DC U 13 V 8.7 W 8.5
AC U 0.68 V 7.5 W 7.5
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Only will follow the fault from U to W ( on the terminal block ) if the U and W are swapped on the alternator incoming wires, will not change if swapped U and W on the RR side or the terminal block, hope that makes sense. j
 
I don't cook!!
Really lucky I don't have to. Live on Thai food,
Hot and spicy!
The output on the UV UW VW doesn't seem right either with a 4 volt discrepancy U seemingly being the cause but swapping U and W didn't change the output reading.
 
Going to wind down now Rob, night time is not the right time for best thoughts, swap to spare SH530 as a quick substitute as you see fit Rob, i would be surprised to see a correct charge again, can be wrong....j
 
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