What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?
- Thread starter CLEMTOG
- Start date
motoddrob
Hero member
- Location
- S/W Australia
That's just too sensible Piet. My Motodd has them fitted to the original rearsets. 36 years later still fitted and never had an issue with damaged boots. Look way better than the knurled nobs too.
I used a bit of garden hose on the GSbm lever, still there 14 years later.
I used a bit of garden hose on the GSbm lever, still there 14 years later.
Dellortoman
Hero member
- Location
- Tasmania, Australia
That bit of your boot flexes while you walk, so I reckon a leather pad might work better than a metal plate and would probably have a better chance of staying stuck. My boots have leather doubler pads stitched on for exactly that purpose. If the Sikaflex doesn't hold (BTW, there might be better stuff for gluing leather) you could take it to a boot repair shop and get them to sew a patch on. I think they have sewing machines that can reach inside a boot.
You can also buy boot protectors like this:
Motorcycle Shifter Cover Boot Shoes Protector Shift Guard Protective Gear Cover | eBay Australia
Find many great new & used options and get the best deals for Motorcycle Shifter Cover Boot Shoes Protector Shift Guard Protective Gear Cover at the best online prices at eBay Australia!
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... or use the cheaper home-made version like we used to do in the old days: cut a piece of old inner tube to slip over the toe of your boot.
All good suggestions, and similar to the ones I just had with the local Toolmaker Tig bloke. This all started when I was missing a few up changes that I put down to the gear lever being a touch low, I was at my max articulation of my ankle on up changes. So I decided to lower the lever, rearset type.. But the issue was it was maxed out with the length of the threaded link rod, vesa ve cutting it shorter and not having any more internal threaded hole. So I went to Martys and he did this on his lath, not so easy as I think this rod was either Case Hardened or tool steel, it was BLOODY HARD. When this was done the gear changes were much firmer but I was also rubbing my boot a lot more sliding my foot into position. I started noticing the boot damage on the last ride. I added some shrink wrap but last night I decided most of the damage was from the thin strip on the edge of the hollow end of the gear tip so adding a rubber cover wouldn't fix that and I didnt want it any thicker either. Also I only have 3 days before the weekend ride so no time to ship any other bit so I decided to try and get the hollow end TIGED over full and machine a ball end nice and round plus remove the knurling so it doesn't snag on anything. So I had a nice long brain storm with the toolmaker and he wasn't so keen on my idea, apparently machining TIG can be problematic. He suggested making another from scratch, and the he noticed the steel thread insert that bolts it to the peg and was worried that making it all out of alloy might compromise that thread structurally. He then said maybe making it out of Stainless but I was considered it might be to heavy and upset the gear change. So I just left it with him to see what he can do. Fuck me why is this stuff so bloody complicated, BTW this bit is a spare so if it goes Tits up there is still one on the bike for the weekend.
chrisk
Hero member
- Location
- Brisbane, Australia
A flux capacitor shit itself, now most of Qld has no power. Just smoke.
Yes Paul, maybe an Eastern Creek race meet I think. I love riding in cold weather, but not so much cold and wet. I was reading the Oxley MIGHT have one lane in bits open in July. Not so much looking forward to coming back The New England, done it to death in the car the last 3 years.
piranha-bro2
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- Location
- Melbourne
I've already thought that when i saw them - just haven't got around to finding one - are they a regularly available spare part? My homegrown rearsets use a Jota (RH) gear lever assembly and a 3C short gear lever as a brake lever that operates the rear M/cyl. You can imagine people trying to ride it who are used to left foot gearchange - won't go into first and hard as a rock and won't go into second!!
helicopterjim
Hero member
- Location
- near Lone Butte, BC, Canada
That smoke is legal in Canada ........ you don't care about the power after the smoke.
Jim
I'll check for you Quentin. I think there are some in stock.
If you haven't buttoned up the engine, why not swap the entire gear change mechanism for triple bits? This will ease up the shift effort to normal levels. Or use the internal 750 drum and external tripe parts to reverse the shift pattern, if so desired? All sorts of possibilities...
piet
piranha-bro2
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- Location
- Melbourne
Thanks Piet. I've had Jota levers (foot and motor) since the late 70s (came off an insurance repair I did in the shop). I use a reverse pattern and shifting effort is excellent.
Had no idea triple parts would make a difference - I did know the internals attached to the splined shaft under the outer cover were different but never gave any thought to why. Were they designed to improve shifting? And is that why the 3C could use the short gear lever? (which I fitted to my SF1 but was always horrible on the foot, and was turned into my brake lever when I made the switch to rearsets - and a whole new world of ergonomic benefit!)
mate 10 of us Qldr,s coming to walcha
Has to do with the geometry of the change mechanism. 750 uses a long pawl gate, triple short. This coincides with the gear lever length. But, as the pawls engage on opposite sides of the small selector drum, pattern is reversed, large slector drum is mirrored. Need to do some thinking before you commit yourself.
piet
piranha-bro2
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- Location
- Melbourne
So the large selector plate that controls the forks in the gearbox has a mirror pattern and thus starts in 1st where SFs have 5th? Does that selector plate fit straight into the SF internal drum? If I can source all the bits for less than the silly prices I see on FleeBay I might consider. But then by 'tuning' the ratio of my rearset linkages I'm really doing the same thing aren't I? I have to say with my setup shifting is totally transformed c/w the std SF.Has to do with the geometry of the change mechanism. 750 uses a long pawl gate, triple short. This coincides with the gear lever length. But, as the pawls engage on opposite sides of the small selector drum, pattern is reversed, large slector drum is mirrored. Need to do some thinking before you commit yourself.
piet
Definitely interested in an RGS toe piece.
All bits interchange... but you cannot rely on the markings of the small selector drum unless you swap everything. You'll need to work out the final position yourself, turned around about 270°.
Definitly easier to play with external lever lengths, but usefull if customised setups are to stay invisible. Especially the later triple selector drum with the ramped indents is a worthwhile mod for the 750, gearchange is a bit smoother while retaining precision.
piet
Definitly easier to play with external lever lengths, but usefull if customised setups are to stay invisible. Especially the later triple selector drum with the ramped indents is a worthwhile mod for the 750, gearchange is a bit smoother while retaining precision.
piet