What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

If anyone wants to 'chip-in' ... any recommendations on how's best to sling the engine for a hoist?
I just wrap a strop around the cylinder block - "lasso" fashion so it pulls tight.
Put some protective wrap on the frame first though to protect the paint. I use clear PVC hose(about the same dia as the frame tubes) split lengthways so you can fit it over the frame tubes.
 
If anyone wants to 'chip-in' ... any recommendations on how's best to sling the engine for a hoist?
My experience is that to save injuries to me, helper, motor and frame, it's best to strip it down to just the motor and frame, lay it on its side on wood blocks to stabilize, then lift frame away from motor. More work but significant risk reduction to human and bike parts. DAMHIK about crushed fingers etc.
 
Finally got around to starting 'fixes' on the 1200. As suspected the valve timing had been fiddled and a leaky head gasket. A peak inside and definitely running rich and significant colouring in the intakes from blow-back. Pretty good carbonation too. Frankly I'm surprised it still ran as well as it did.

If anyone wants to 'chip-in' ... any recommendations on how's best to sling the engine for a hoist?
I used this one-armed helper for the engine installation. The engine was attached to an adjustable balance beam at the front left and rear right, valve cover was off. The engine should be hung so that it is as high as possible at the front. It must slip under the rear mountings on the frame:
50682344873_23b28f4385_b.jpg


Cheers,
Jo
 
My experience is that to save injuries to me, helper, motor and frame, it's best to strip it down to just the motor and frame, lay it on its side on wood blocks to stabilize, then lift frame away from motor. More work but significant risk reduction to human and bike parts. DAMHIK about crushed fingers etc.

I've never used that lying down method. Mostly because I don't wanna strip the bike down to the bare frame.

It's a 10 minute job doing it with a hoist, as opposed to a couple of hours stripping the bike down to the frame, doing a sideways frame over engine job, then reassembling the bike again afterwards.

You get pretty good control of the engine with a chain block or garage hoist as in Jo's picture. You might want to run a light rope from the hoist hook to the back of the engine so you can adjust the angle of tilt of the engine as you wiggle it through the frame.
 
The method with a rope around the engine block at the height of the cylinder base also sounds reasonable and even a bit easier than the one of working with a balancer that I used. In between I had to put the engine down again to loosen the right rope and reconnect it on the other side of the frame backbone. With enough wood and another jack to support it, no problem.

The positive thing about it: As often in life, there are several options ...
:D :cool:
 
I copied Cam's method when I took my motor out. Cam put up a photo of his roped up motor. I used a block and tackle to take most of the weight, had a trolley jack underneath taking some weight as well. I reached down, either side of the frame, grabbed the motor and lifted the sucker up and out onto a stool.

 
easiest way for me is to remove all bolts and plates, then move the motor forwards out of the gearbox mounts, and slotted plates underneath, then install two lengths of 10mm threaded rod, front and rear, this gives four good grab handles, with two fit men, its an easy lift out to the right, cam cover off, drain plug out, and if you can be bothered, primary drive including clutch stripped out beforehand.
cheap as chips,. simple and effective, and its easier to lift the unit onto the bench, although some take the head and barrels off with the unit on the floor then it really is an easy lift.
CLEM
 
It's a 30 second job with 2 people who know what they're doing... no ropes or hoists required, just a couple of bits of hose for frame protection.

A back-breaker if doing single-handed though, I have a little electric hoist running along a ceiling girder. Didn't need that 30 years ago...:rolleyes:

piet
 
It's a 30 second job with 2 people who know what they're doing... no ropes or hoists required, just a couple of bits of hose for frame protection.

A back-breaker if doing single-handed though, I have a little electric hoist running along a ceiling girder. Didn't need that 30 years ago...:rolleyes:

piet
Last time I did it, single-handed and in a hurry, I didn't use the rubber hose so scraped a fair bit of paint. It's a bloody awkward job, on your own!
 
I copied Cam's method when I took my motor out. Cam put up a photo of his roped up motor. I used a block and tackle to take most of the weight, had a trolley jack underneath taking some weight as well. I reached down, either side of the frame, grabbed the motor and lifted the sucker up and out onto a stool.

With the bike stripped this far down, the easiest way to mount the engine is to remove the top yoke, remove the front end and simply drop the frame over the engine (laying on some foam/old matraze on the left side). No fance lifts needed, no back hurting. Follow the advise of Piet and strap some cut-open rubber tubes over the frame to avoid scratches and its really a very, very easy thing to do, especially if you have a helping hand.

On the 1000 SFC (yeah - more space, I know...) I did it alone and it was really very easy.
 
With the bike stripped this far down, the easiest way to mount the engine is to remove the top yoke, remove the front end and simply drop the frame over the engine (laying on some foam/old matraze on the left side). No fance lifts needed, no back hurting. Follow the advise of Piet and strap some cut-open rubber tubes over the frame to avoid scratches and its really a very, very easy thing to do, especially if you have a helping hand.

On the 1000 SFC (yeah - more space, I know...) I did it alone and it was really very easy.
Hi Lothar, when I put it back together, the frame had been re-painted. I used split plastic tubing to cover the paintwork.

I lifted it in, no problem, no hurt back. I had to take out again, straight away, for some reason I forget now, so I did it twice. I am strong... like bull :)
 
Yea, me too. But in honesty its a bloody awkward lift and after a lifetime of doing awkward lifts with the damage done from that I try not too now. That threaded rod tip from Clem at least gives you better hand holds for 2 blokes. Engine lift crane is way easier
 
a WIN .... follow this post & 'Jota engine out virgin' (2018) and it can be easy.

The big takeaway was that the motor 'had' to go low at the rear (first) along with a decent strap in the right location. More to follow.
 

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