What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

Piet, does it have the same effect on 3cs, Occasionally on up changes mine will feel blocked but then goes in with a slight reduction in foot pressure and a second push. It usualy happens going higher than 2nd or 3rd gear. Not a common thing, 2 or 3 times in a days riding.
 
All bits interchange... but you cannot rely on the markings of the small selector drum unless you swap everything. You'll need to work out the final position yourself, turned around about 270°.

Definitly easier to play with external lever lengths, but usefull if customised setups are to stay invisible. Especially the later triple selector drum with the ramped indents is a worthwhile mod for the 750, gearchange is a bit smoother while retaining precision.

piet
And you can't just change one thing? Gotta change all or nothing yeah? Is the ramped selector drum from a Series 2? RGS is different again?
 
120° stuff is totally different. MkII engines have these drums, but not entirely sure when they were introduced as they have the same part # as the earlier item. Quite possible to find them in late MkI donks as well. No, you can change just one thing, just have to work out how it interacts with the rest...

Vince, same effect for the early triples. Not much difference, but you do notice it when compared back-to-back.

piet
 
Can these ramps be machined into earlier selector drums Piet. Finding one wouldn't be easy I expect. If so it might be possible to just swop it out on an exchange basis?
 
Tried to fire up the 1000 SFC last weekend to go on a spin with my son and his buddy, when all I got by pushing the starter button was a "click".

Pushed the bike back into the garage, took the formula out and - started on the 2nd attempt! Nice round, all running really well except for some rain that hit us on the way back.

Yesterday I started to look for the reason, assuming that the starter motor had given up due to a starter clutch not releasing the starter when the engine runs. Quick check with a direct cable to the plus pole of the start and - the engine turned! Tried again with the start button - only that "click"

Took the seat unit off and looked for the relais, which send out sparks at the pole where the cable to the starter is connected when pushing the starter button :eek:

So - replacement time for the starter relais... :rolleyes:

seems the original relais is a bit hard to get (Bosch original number 0332002160) locally here. Hope, OCT has one that fits. Seems Benelli Sei used them, too, but also no success with searching for that item. Would prefer to buy locally, but if not, I might have to look broader...

Cheers
 
Tried to fire up the 1000 SFC last weekend to go on a spin with my son and his buddy, when all I got by pushing the starter button was a "click".

Pushed the bike back into the garage, took the formula out and - started on the 2nd attempt! Nice round, all running really well except for some rain that hit us on the way back.

Yesterday I started to look for the reason, assuming that the starter motor had given up due to a starter clutch not releasing the starter when the engine runs. Quick check with a direct cable to the plus pole of the start and - the engine turned! Tried again with the start button - only that "click"

Took the seat unit off and looked for the relais, which send out sparks at the pole where the cable to the starter is connected when pushing the starter button :eek:

So - replacement time for the starter relais... :rolleyes:

seems the original relais is a bit hard to get (Bosch original number 0332002160) locally here. Hope, OCT has one that fits. Seems Benelli Sei used them, too, but also no success with searching for that item. Would prefer to buy locally, but if not, I might have to look broader...

Cheers

If Roger can't sort you out send me an email or PM. I have a spare relay.

Gerald
 
they were coming between the connected cable and somewhere at the housing... the pole was rusted quite much, that is true and would speak for what you say. However, any attempt to unfasten the screw caused a) the pole to brake off and b) afterwards the screw to brake off of the pole... so - the relay needed replacement anyway.
 
they were coming between the connected cable and somewhere at the housing... the pole was rusted quite much, that is true and would speak for what you say. However, any attempt to unfasten the screw caused a) the pole to brake off and b) afterwards the screw to brake off of the pole... so - the relay needed replacement anyway.
Agreed!! No argument there.

I'm going to try one from a big Jap V-twin. Fully weather-sealed connector block, two separate fused take-offs. Looks the goods, has some weight, so hopefully up to the task amps-wise.
 
Wonder how many kg you've tossed there? Did you weight the chaff?

Still got more on it than mine has ... in fact I spent an hour this arvo cleaning off the remaining outcrops from where I'd chopped stuff off. Gotta be heavy - to soak up the vibes!
 
A while ago eagle eye Marnix spotted that the indicators on my 3c were not the original ones:
https://www.laverdaforum.com/xf/threads/98038/page-11#post-429169

In the meantime, I was able to get the right indicators (Fratelli Pagani, better known as CEV 18343) in excellent nick.

51215366962_20aef695b3_c.jpg


Mille grazie Jürgen!
 
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Installed the new starter relais yesterday to the 1000SFC and instantly it fired up again!

Thanks again, Gerald, for helping me out! Once the new relais I ordered is shiped to me, I'll send it over to you ;-)
 
Finally got around to starting 'fixes' on the 1200. As suspected the valve timing had been fiddled and a leaky head gasket. A peak inside and definitely running rich and significant colouring in the intakes from blow-back. Pretty good carbonation too. Frankly I'm surprised it still ran as well as it did.

If anyone wants to 'chip-in' ... any recommendations on how's best to sling the engine for a hoist?
 

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