What did you do to or for or with your Laverda today?

I took my 3C out for the first time in months, it's only done about 20km since Ged at GCS rebuilt the motor and last time I took it out the fuses blew and I had to push it off the motorway, so I was slightly apprehensive this time.
It's been a while but I realised exactly what I discovered when I first bought one all those years ago, they are a pain in the backside to drive slowly even with a Sachs ignition but the faster you go the better they get.
I'm not sure what improvement I am supposed to notice with the new ignition system fitted, not much from the seat of the pants I would say but it's early days yet. The charging system is a huge improvement mind you.
Anyway, I was trying to be good and run the bike in a little but I had a few bursts up to 160 -180 kph and that's when it all made sense. This time everything went according to plan, the motor sounds lovely, a bit of clutch rattle but that's because I was all spent up before we got to the clutch which is far too heavy for my knackered wrist in town, nothing new there either.
He builds a good engine that Ged and I can already tell that this one is fast for a bog standard 3C.
I'm afraid it needs some elbow grease now to clean all the neglected alloy up because you certainly can't see that it's had thousands spent on it at the moment. Shaun, come and polish my bike up mate, you know you want to 😁
 
pf1 said:
I took my 3C out for the first time in months, it's only done about 20km since Ged at GCS rebuilt the motor and last time I took it out the fuses blew and I had to push it off the motorway, so I was slightly apprehensive this time.
It's been a while but I realised exactly what I discovered when I first bought one all those years ago, they are a pain in the backside to drive slowly even with a Sachs ignition but the faster you go the better they get.
I'm not sure what improvement I am supposed to notice with the new ignition system fitted, not much from the seat of the pants I would say but it's early days yet. The charging system is a huge improvement mind you.
Anyway, I was trying to be good and run the bike in a little but I had a few bursts up to 160 -180 kph and that's when it all made sense. This time everything went according to plan, the motor sounds lovely, a bit of clutch rattle but that's because I was all spent up before we got to the clutch which is far too heavy for my knackered wrist in town, nothing new there either.
He builds a good engine that Ged and I can already tell that this one is fast for a bog standard 3C.
I'm afraid it needs some elbow grease now to clean all the neglected alloy up because you certainly can't see that it's had thousands spent on it at the moment. Shaun, come and polish my bike up mate, you know you want to 😁
Click to expand...
Now thats what I like to hear Pat (someone riding their 3C)
Thats gotta make you smile :)
 
Chuck3CL said:
Here's the background to the Yamaha MC three-tuning forks logo origin:
An example of this reed valve can be found in the Yamaha RD350 two stroke. I owned one and when you got those valves on song in the narrow torque band it was bloody fast!
Click to expand...
:unsure: I think I just had a lightbulb moment ...... could that be where the RD model names originated???
 
Dellortoman said:
Neat (y)

Although you've used those godawful coloured plastic crimp connectors that we were bemoaning in another thread.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I use the blade terminals because they're small, re-usable and quick to crimp. Using the screw-in terminal strips also save space and easy to connect/disconnect. Spade lugs seem too big for this space. Resistance is negligible.
 
Jo said:
... installed new stainless steel discs and related pads ...
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I installed the new discs to the rotor with M6x12 (IIRC) hex bolts and a drop of loctite. I don't trust the loctite though as this area has to stand higher temperatures. Now I think about replacing them with M6x14 in conjunction with Schnorr washers. Any objections (or better suggestions) ..?
Thanks, Jo
 
Should have been Schnoor washers there ex-factory, Jo!

High-strength Loctite is quite OK though, the bolts won't fall out immediately when they get hot.

piet
 
Paul Marx said:
Very thick wires to the bulb?
Paul
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Very thinn wires are going to the thick bulb-wires!!!
If you are driving even in the night, you schould change that.

thick +-cable from battery/fuses to the keylock
thick +-cable from the keylock to the fuse-box
thick +-cable from keylock to the light-switch
thick +-cable from the light-switch to the bulb
garantee perfect ground (-) even at the bar, the lamp-housing, at the reflector and at the rear lights!

Use as less conectors as possible! Each additional, not necesarry conector reduces amp and may be one day a problem (corosion,....).

Thomas aus LAU, back from the beautiful Croatia
 
I hope you bought suitable pads with the discs, Jo.

The soft Lucas/TRW pads work well, especially in the wet. For additional performance, their race compound kevlar/ceramic pads are awesome! Might show up some fork shortcomings though. ;)

piet
 
sfcpiet said:
I hope you bought suitable pads with the discs, Jo.

piet
Click to expand...

Yes - Roger recommended AP-Racing "Street LMP106 ST" pads along with the discs.


sfcpiet said:
The soft Lucas/TRW pads work well, especially in the wet. For additional performance, their race compound kevlar/ceramic pads are awesome! Might show up some fork shortcomings though. ;)

piet
Click to expand...

The fork is better now, but there's still many room for improvement ...
;)
 
when you are around and my bike back from OCT, take a ride on it. Nothing wrong with a well set up Marzocchi, even without the famous gold valves... ;) (or I am not sensitive enough to feel it...)
 
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