Building my Jota

Does the chain miss the bottom of the battery box when the springs are compressed? 6 plug racer tried to chew through the battery on version number one.

Have got 200 km down the road and couldn?t open the fuel tank. Yep, ditch the key.
 
martymoose said:
Does the chain miss the bottom of the battery box when the springs are compressed? 6 plug racer tried to chew through the battery on version number one.

Have got 200 km down the road and couldn?t open the fuel tank. Yep, ditch the key.
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I think I?m good there on chain clearance From the box size.  .  I?m just about to head out to the shed So I will double check.  Thanks for bringing the point up. I will let you know if I cocked up or lucked in
 
martymoose said:
Does the chain miss the bottom of the battery box when the springs are compressed? 6 plug racer tried to chew through the battery on version number one.
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Looking at my 1200 looks like I?m clear height wise, I can always lif the battery up 20 mm more.    I would be interested to know how much lateral movement happens in the chain when moving.  I have about 15 mm between the chain and the side of the box. 
 
So close to the gearbox sprocket you'd be very hard pressed to get 15mm of flex - midway b/w fr and rr sprockets, maybe. Good point though, Marty. Have to bear that in mind when I do my battery box for the SFQ.
 
Engine cases are often mutilated by the chain at the rear mounts, a good 10mm there.  Cases should keep the chain from flexing much further.  ::)

piet
 
So I had 4 hours in the shed yesterday... I started off around 11 in the morning.... stupid, it was already 42 degrees in there , and the fan was just blowing hot air around. I need to get onto insulating the roof! Re entry to shed at 1700 after hanging in the pool most of the day.
It started of was just putting everything back in place, more to satisfy my urge of what the bike will look like, Im not a fan of orange as a colour as I have mentioned before, but this bike just screams I wanna be Orange, and it works in this tone.
I spent a bit of time on getting the light bracket holder sorted... I have silent blocks there, but the curve of the fairing means the flats on the silent blocks don't sit well. I know I could have mounted the bracket higher, but the lights do look better lower down, to me that is
I have a lot of work coming up to shape the rubber spacers that I have to suit the shape of the fairing....
Also what I learnt was there is a lot more work to be done on things I thought had more or less sorted, but that's ok, its a learning curve and it  makes my job list more accurate

Today its getting the new forks in and the front wheel on , so I can start looking at the brake adaptor for the forks.

You can see the electrical bulkhead I'm working on, that gets cut out of carbon today as well, then i can start mounting on the electrical hardware and see where wires will run.

the photos attached , Im sure you have seen many bikes in orange with twin head lights... but that still doesn't take away from the fact it looks pretty mint.... although when everything goes back for clear coating over the stickers...the underside of the tank will be painted more!
 

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Paul Marx said:
Looks like you may need to raise the rear of the tank. It appears that it's against those vertical tubes.
Paul
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Just checked, its not on the verticals, it is on the tank rubbers at the rear, but only just above the tubes for the seat unit, I think when the tank is full and head down that will hit. I will have to make something that lifts the tank up at the rear... good spotting and pointer  thanks a bunch
 
put O rings on the spigots of the rubbers, if they are a stock item, if one ring is not enough put two, but after that, there is not much spigot left.
CLEM
 
CLEMTOG said:
put O rings on the spigots of the rubbers, if they are a stock item, if one ring is not enough put two, but after that, there is not much spigot left.
CLEM
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Awesome.  Thanks so much sir ! That?s something I would never have thought of .

 
On my SFC, rear tank rubbers are doubled up and I stick bits of inner tube on the top frame rails to stop the tank belly wearing against the tubes.

Paul
 
Todd, I struggled with my fairing fitment. Mainly because I didn?t like the way it dropped down at the rear, yours does this too. Erks me a bit. I prefer to see the bottom wings follow the line of the tank bottom

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chrisk said:
Todd, I struggled with my fairing fitment. Mainly because I didn?t like the way it dropped down at the rear, yours does this too. Erks me a bit. I prefer to see the bottom wings follow the line of the tank bottom

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Dude. I totally get you. It looks like a bloody African paper wasp with those bits hanging down  But I wanted the top of the fairing to run with the top of the tank.  I looked at all angles when working out where to mount it , but I didn?t want the front upper part to look like a half fairing on a Harley or an after thought sunburst fairing on a BMW . No offence
 
sideshow said:
Dude. I totally get you. It looks like a bloody African paper wasp with those bits hanging down  But I wanted the top of the fairing to run with the top of the tank.
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Raising the back of the tank is gonna get some of that back for you. Win, win!
 
I found the SFC fairing just too limited for the height I wanted to run with my clipons. A Ducati SS bevel fairing is a much easier proposition (for future ref!).

I won't use either on either bike - GZX-R J model upper on the SF rebuild, ZXR 250 Kwaka upper on the SFQ. Finding that balance of usability when the wind eventually hits you also has to be considered: distance to rider, height, handlebar swing clearance etc ... oh - and aesthetics!! Tricky.

Coming together Todd, BTW, DAM racing sell alloy inserts to raise the tank to clear flat slide Miks on triples. Might raise it too far maybe.,
 
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