Slow cranking

Well, that makes no sense, NDK plugs get colder as the numbers get larger. An 8 should foul easier than a 7 and a 9 should foul easier than an 8. If all is well a B8es should self-clean. One important thing is to start with full choke and turn the choke off as soon as you possibly can, they will foul if the choke stays on for any longer than you bearly need it. Just for shit and giggles try tapping the starter with a solid lump of wood as you press the button, that might suggest a fix if it works and is easy to try.
These 9s are EV’s so gold tips so think they are less prone to fouling
 
Laverda triple, '77 with 1000 motor if stock Bosch CDI ignition and weedy Bosch generator, may not be suitable for this type of battery.
This could be the be all and end all of the "slow cranking"
CLEM
Clem its got a Witt dmc1 and updated 150w charge coil not that it makes that much difference
 
I've run mine on Champions since the getgo. N3s were running a little too hot, so I went to N2s.
They were fine in the summer but, in temperatures below 5°C, I had to heat them with a blowtorch to start from full cold.
Switched to N2Gs (Gold Palladium wire electrodes), in about '81 and have used them ever since.
Runs beautifully, with a steady 500 RPM (indicated) tickover, all the way to "I think I'll change up now".
Bought a dozen when I heard Champion were no longer producing them. That should keep me going for the forseeable.

I've tried NGKs a couple of times over the years but never got on with them.

Oil and tyres, next ;)
 
I've run mine on Champions since the getgo. N3s were running a little too hot, so I went to N2s.
They were fine in the summer but, in temperatures below 5°C, I had to heat them with a blowtorch to start from full cold.
Switched to N2Gs (Gold Palladium wire electrodes), in about '81 and have used them ever since.
Runs beautifully, with a steady 500 RPM (indicated) tickover, all the way to "I think I'll change up now".
Bought a dozen when I heard Champion were no longer producing them. That should keep me going for the forseeable.

I've tried NGKs a couple of times over the years but never got on with them.

Oil and tyres, next ;)
Can’t seem to find the g’s anywhere locally but my local car shop will supply any ngk plug at a good price
 
Yesterday I had no issue with slow cranking.
I started my (now Arne‘s) 1116 180 deg engine after 6 month first time. Old petrol in the carbs Batterie lifepro 360
cca loaded but it was 5 deg cold.
Engine turned very very slow about 2 sec one turn and then started after three turns- all three !!!😄
I did not expect it when I the engine was cranking so slow..
 
Hi Davo,
I'm thinking the newer versions of the SSB are a problem. The one in the bike now is a replacement SSB sent after the first did some weird shit when brand new..
It seemed to have a cutout switch that reset after a few minutes. Did it a couple of times so called them and they offered to replaced it.
Current one worked fine for the last 11 months till Friday morning when it was dead. Meter showed 11.9v. I put it on charge and it's now 12.9v and has remained at that and even started the bike yesterday. Something has changed with the later versions which has the voltage readout, Earlier instructions said that a conventional charger was ok to use, later version says they need a Lithium type charger. I'm going to call SSB tomorrow to see if they will replace it with a AGM instead. So this is the 2nd one to cause problems. The earlier versions are great and long lasting.
 
Hi Davo,
I'm thinking the newer versions of the SSB are a problem. The one in the bike now is a replacement SSB sent after the first did some weird shit when brand new..
It seemed to have a cutout switch that reset after a few minutes. Did it a couple of times so called them and they offered to replaced it.
Current one worked fine for the last 11 months till Friday morning when it was dead. Meter showed 11.9v. I put it on charge and it's now 12.9v and has remained at that and even started the bike yesterday. Something has changed with the later versions which has the voltage readout, Earlier instructions said that a conventional charger was ok to use, later version says they need a Lithium type charger. I'm going to call SSB tomorrow to see if they will replace it with a AGM instead. So this is the 2nd one to cause problems. The earlier versions are great and long lasting.
Yep, the new one that failed had the voltage readout button and screen. I'm wondering if the fault could be to do with that switch and screen causing a slow discharge even when supposedly switched off. The reason I disconnect it in the Sprint is because the clock and alarm would cause a constant discharge and eventually drop the thing below the death band. May well do the same as you and swap back to AGM for convenience.
 
Did you blokes see footage of that Cargo Boat filled with cars burning the other day, they stated they had major trouble putting the fires out because of these batteries, not sure but it might have been a chicken and egg thing. I haven't heard if the batteries caused the fire or just made putting it out harder, Same with a few plane crashes involving these batteries. There are issues putting fires out in Teslas, they don't extinguish too easily. I don't see an upside over Gel Mat.
 
I tried a couple of lithium batteries in bikes. They both failed within a year. Probably because I didn't treat them right. But who needs a fussy battery that's high maintenance, needy of attention and could explode at any time without warning? I've had women in my life like that and I got rid of them too.

I'll stick with AGM unless lithium technology improves, becomes a bit safer and more tolerant of haphazard maintenance.
 
Well Cam I and a couple of mates have had a different experience with the older SSB lithiums. One mate and i brought them over 7 years ago for our BM GSs after another mate had one in his GS for a couple of years and swore by them.
In all that time It's never had to be charged and it always started the bike. My mates would say the same. They have since
upgraded them with a nice feature of a push button voltage display. Now also recommend using lithium charges instead of conventional charges for the older ones, so somehow they've made some changes for the worst. Talking between mates that use them it's the later version that are problematic.
 
Well I'ver got the newer type with the button and readout and I bought it nearly two years ago - needed a size and was overly optimistic! - but it still reads 13.25V and I was also led to believe my std little 4 amp charger will charge it if needs be - better be right!! If it duds me out I'll go to AGM as well.
 
Using one of these in the 3cl, cost a bomb...... had to buy the bike to get it 😜 had it for 5yrs previous owner 2, bike sits for couple of months without being run, but when called on fires on the button. Never had a Battery spin up a Lav as quick as this bad boy 👌🏼 Never had a trickle charger on it either!
 

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Brand new barstard battery yuasa 53030 is shite and doesn’t hold a full charge and while cranking falls to 10v almost ,so can any of you lovely people recommend a decent battery that has quite a good cca rating that fits in the hole please
 
I'd be asking the supplier what they can recommend when you give them back the dud Yuasa!!

Encouraging to read about your SSB, Dave. Here's hoping mine follows a similar route. They're too expensive to just work on a hit and miss basis.
 
Ah, but is a regulator/rectifier fitted, in place of the OE rectifier? If not, stick with a traditional wet battery. They can soak up the punishment of overvoltage charging. Just keep topping up with purified water. If yes, then you could think about an AGM item
 
Ah, but is a regulator/rectifier fitted, in place of the OE rectifier? If not, stick with a traditional wet battery. They can soak up the punishment of overvoltage charging. Just keep topping up with purified water. If yes, then you could think about an AGM item
Reg rec fitted
 
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