Slow cranking

OK... so it all depends on how much cash you want to splash! As you probably know, the standard system, even if rated at 150w (unlikely that fitting a second charging coil will deliver that) will struggle to keep the battery fully charged unless running LED lights and/or keeping revs >4000. So sticking the battery on charge will help extend its life and preserve your investment if going down the AGM route.
 
"Encouraging to read about your SSB, Dave. Here's hoping mine follows a similar route. They're too expensive to just work on a hit and miss basis."

Fortunately for Dave he has the older version SSB, same as the one in my BM and a few of my mate's BMs. As stated has lasted trouble free for over 7 years.
It's the newer versions with the read out that seems to be problematic. This is the 2nd one that's caused me problems after having the first replaced by SSB, and I know of a couple of others that have been returned.
I want this one replaced with a AGM.
 
townsend846 said:
Brand new barstard battery yuasa 53030 is shite and doesn’t hold a full charge and while cranking falls to 10v almost ,so can any of you lovely people recommend a decent battery that has quite a good cca rating that fits in the hole please
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Voltage depression down to 10V is within the normal range of what I'd expect during engine cranking - perhaps toward the low end of normal, but that could just mean that the battery's CCA is a little under-rated. I don't think it means the battery is shite. Yuasa batteries are normally reliable enough.

Before you point an accusatory finger at the new battery. Make sure your starter motor is OK. A starter motor with shorted out stator windings can look very similar to a dud battery and is probably the more likely scenario.

If you haven't already done it (I can't recall all the tests you've done) use a set of jumper leads to connect a good battery (preferably something with a decent CCA rating like your car battery) in parallel with your bike's battery. If you're still getting slow cranking then I'd bet money that the starter motor is shagged.
 
Just picked my SSB LiFePo back up from the distributor. It has been fully charged and through several load testing and charging cycles over a week and is declared perfect. They have no idea why it dropped it's voltage and why my charger only recognised it as a 6v battery. Interestingly, the voltage indicator on it is now working when previously it never did, even when brand new. Oh well, suck it and see I guess.
 
Dellortoman said:
Voltage depression down to 10V is within the normal range of what I'd expect during engine cranking - perhaps toward the low end of normal, but that could just mean that the battery's CCA is a little under-rated. I don't think it means the battery is shite. Yuasa batteries are normally reliable enough.

Before you point an accusatory finger at the new battery. Make sure your starter motor is OK. A starter motor with shorted out stator windings can look very similar to a dud battery and is probably the more likely scenario.

If you haven't already done it (I can't recall all the tests you've done) use a set of jumper leads to connect a good battery (preferably something with a decent CCA rating like your car battery) in parallel with your bike's battery. If you're still getting slow cranking then I'd bet money that the starter motor is shagged.
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Just put a different battery (agm) on and started straight away smaller ah but higher cca rating, think I’m going to go for the yuasa yix 30 ah with a 400 cca but not cheap and refund on old lead acid, happy days
 
sfcpiet said:
I'd stick to a curve topping at 30-32° BTDC. Steep or shallow is dependant on your riding preferences, the steeper the advance curve, the more aggressive the engine reacts. Need to keep an ear open for pinking though (might need Champion N2 or NGK9). Be sure to set the ignition up on curve #1, ie 32° full advance. Also, check the flywheel markings are accurate. Actually, you can disregard the stock TDC marking, you need a 32° BTDC mark, if it hasn't already been done. From there, it's flicking the switches.

Edit;
Looking at the curves from your previous post, I'm not sure that they are for a Laverda triple. Triple curves were generally 32° and less full advance, more than 32° would be for very low-comp motors. These curves are mostly more than 32°, Moto Guzzi maybe. I should have a DMC I manual for a triple... somewhere. See if I can dig it up this weekend. DMC I units were made for all Laverda models, as well as quite a few other marques. They were quite popular in the Guzzi crowd, a fair few were made for bevel and belt Ducatis as a replacement for the OE Bosch units. They can also be found in XS650 Yamahas, H-D Sportsters, Honda 4, Benelli 4 and 6, etc, etc, just about any old banger that originally ran points. Your dip switch settings will be the same as the curves shown, ie, setting #1 equals curve #1.

I can supply individual brushes, but the leads came out a bit short, thankfully only at one end. ;) The brushes fit nicely and are of the correct grade, just a pita to install in the brush holder. I could offer an overhaul, but thanks to Brexit, that's no longer possible.

piet
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Thanks for the additional info,these pages I managed to copy from the library on this site so if wrong needs to be amended , if you have Laverda curves would be great to see them , also bike is running lovely at the moment and starting the moment I touch the button , happy
 
townsend846 said:
Just put a different battery (agm) on and started straight away smaller ah but higher cca rating, think I’m going to go for the yuasa yix 30 ah with a 400 cca but not cheap and refund on old lead acid, happy days
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Great, good news. You'd have found that out immediately with a pair of jump leads off another battery.

Paul
 
Paul Marx said:
Great, good news. You'd have found that out immediately with a pair of jump leads off another battery.

Paul
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Yes indeed but really didn’t suspect that a new fully charged battery would be faulty, glad I had the starter out and cleaned checked and replaced but as you say a jumper lead would have shown the fault straight away paul,never mind, kept me out the boozer all week
 
Had a glass mat SSB in the Jota lasted 2 years. Replaced it with the Yuasa glass mat out of my MHR which I started to resto.
Been in the Jota about 5 years and still going strong.
[Now that I said that it'll shit itself]
 
townsend846 said:
Yes indeed but really didn’t suspect that a new fully charged battery would be faulty, glad I had the starter out and cleaned checked and replaced but as you say a jumper lead would have shown the fault straight away paul,never mind, kept me out the boozer all week
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There was a thread somewhere, was it on the ILOC forum about dud new batteries, obviously stocked for donkey's years and sold off cheap?

Paul
 
Wet batteries are best stored dry, then add the electrolyte just before a nice full charge and put into service. The chemical reactions start as soon as the acid meets metal and the clock starts, whether it is installed or still on the shop shelf.
 
I bought a replacement lead acid for the little Kwajalein. Came dry with a container with six separate containers of acid in a cartridge. When ready to be commissioned you just take the top cap off and the same for the battery and pour it in. Very clever
 
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