Wiring diagram & Ignitech

Thanks All,
My RGS has Ignitech ignition, the coils and leads are the originals, I bypassed the ballast, I was unable to find B8ES plugs anywhere - I've been told they are discontinued, is this wrong -so it has BR8ES it also has NGK straight red resistor caps, could too much resistance be a problem? I can find B8ES on Fleabay but I never trust they'll be genuine on there.
 
Last edited:
I tried it once on my Pantah, and the bike ran but horribly. It was that long ago I don't remember why I did it but it was immediately obvious it was not smart.
 
What colour are the coils, if red, bin them immediately. If faded pink, they are ND and should be serviceable. j
 
If you haven't done so already fit new plug caps. That and new plugs are quick and easy ways to rule out common failure parts.
Only one lot of resistance is needed as stated above.
Ignitech should mean that you won't suffer cold fouling because it gives a fatter spark than the marginal BTZ.
And yes, dark red/maroon coloured Motoplat coils are useless and should be replaced if fitted.
 
iis_iis said:
What colour are the coils, if red, bin them immediately. If faded pink, they are ND and should be serviceable. j
Click to expand...
no the coils are the pale ones.


Why are all the plugs and caps I can easily purchase ( by that I mean today right now like Halfords, ECP or G&S etc ) resistor one's, you'd think either resistor caps OR resistor plugs would be uncommon if only one was required. instead they both seem to be the most common you can get!
 
Tried Andy's cup of tea method first thing though without the new plugs ( as hadn't managed to locate any ) just to see if the passage of time with no fuel and the battery being topped up to 13.9 would make any difference. Have to say it sounded far more promising like it was trying but no cigar. So into the van and after visiting various autofactors today I was unable to find any non resistor plug caps of similar dimensions to the ones in place now but I was able to locate 6 B8ES plugs so bought the lot; three in the bike and three in the tool tray. Fired up almost straight away so thanks everyone for your assistance. Hopefully the lower resistance will stop this happening again for a little while. If it doesn't I have three spares, an allen key and a plug spanner under the seat but there's still likely to be a re-enactment of the Basil Fawlty Austin 1100 incident
 
NGK 5K Ohm covers are a deleted item, also the NGK BxES plugs, remainder stock is to be had, i bought 3 boxes ( 30 plugs ). There is a previous topic on this here.

Ignition coil colour is not just a fashion statement, the Motoplat have two types of internal electrical configuration, one is worse than the other.

DIY test for ignition able to support a cold crank enriched motor start, old plug, break or remove the arm from the plug gap, rest on motor and crank the engine, if the ignition cannot support that large gap, it will be challenged to cold crank start a motor. HTH j
 
Rokka said:
Thanks very much for all that Rob. How would the Ignitech box be more usually connected in your opinion ie without the retaining of the old BTZ sockets. one thing I'm slightly confused about is that the diagram ( I have the same one and the instructions to the Ignitech tcip4 v80 now that I have managed to borrow a windows laptop for a week ), is that it always shows wiring and pins for two pick-ups only. Where is the 3rd pick-up connected? ( it's an academic question as the bike was running fine for the first week of my ownership and the wiring has essentially not changed so it must work but I'd just like to understand it better.) The wiring under the engine when I investigated it was a mess ( this is previous to the starter failing and it's a total miracle to me how it ever ran! see pics. at that point it didn't just backfired a bit when attempting to start however I rewired all that and fitted the starter and from that point on it has started reliably but on just the two pots. You will probably feel ( as I do ) that that wiring is the most likely therefore to be the source of the problem ( I always suspect my own work first ) but I can't find anything obviously wrong with it visually or continuation wise. I will now try the resistance test you detailed and see if the resistance varies. and get back to you on the results. Have also joined ILOC who took my money but haven't told me how to set a password etc so not sure how to log in but sure I'll recieive an email or something soon. View attachment 85285View attachment 85286
Click to expand...
My wiring is not quite this bad but I need to heat shrink it. How do you get the pins out of the connector so you can feed the heatshrink over the cables please.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top