This bloody bike. 1976 3CE

Ha h
piranha-bro2 said:
Sounds OK under no load ... fingers crossed. Dodgy ignition parts, Robin!! If that has been the cause all along aren't you tempted to just renew the whole package?
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Ha Ha, in the diagnosis process I have renewed every thing - plugs, pug caps, coils, ECU, RR, battery, starter solenoid, kill switch solenoid. Maybe the whole wiring loom could be done and for sure the rubbish connectors in the head lamp….
Long term I would like to reinstate the stock air box and perhaps get the silencers rechromed.

Thanks all.
 
You've certainly worked hard figuring it all out- did the bike originally come to you w electronic ignition or points? I've considered converting to electronic but not sure if it's really plug and play and I think it depends on how well the manufacturer supports it w technical help.
 
There are about 100 million motorcycles getting around as I type that have electronic ignition ... throw in a car or a billion and I think if elec ignition was a dodgy we'd have heard about it. For an old clunker to satisfactorily work with modern ignition everything has to be in good nick ... like working pickups (if using old ones like Robin). Use shitty old coils and hi-tension leads, dodgy connectors and switches and you're going to find trouble. The two-stage advance on early laverda triples was prehistoric compared to something like an Ignitech using Hall Effect pickups.
 
OK, so it is still living up to the name of the thread.
Been very wet in the UK and folk have lost their lives and had their homes and businesses flooded, but today was nice and bright but windy, a good day for a small test ride. Away we went and stalled it outside the pub at the first road junction but a fiddle with the choke got it going and it pulled nicely enough. On to the duel carriageway past Silverstone circuit and it didn’t want to pull higher revs - at what I cannot tell as Venhill cables are on back order and Peder’s rev counter flange is yet to arrive. Although the carbs have been apart and cleaned numerous times there could be some playing to do with needle heights and jets, but there was a pop bang so maybe still problems with the pickups.
Back in my drive and there’s oil on my right boot which I think is from the right hand end crank seal..
The spring on the rear brake light switch has over stretched and the neutral light won’t go out. Sump switch or wiring?
There has developed a bubble in the new paint on the top of the tank so digging around shows a small hole but I’m going to line it with POR15. To do that I emptied out the tank and took the taps off. I thought the flow from the taps could have been stronger so maybe that could be related to it not reving out.
Finally once the steering lock cover is off how do I get the steering lock out the frame as I have no key.

IMG_3791.jpegIMG_3793.jpegIMG_3795.jpegIMG_3796.jpeg
 
Sorry to hear .... I always found the neutral light difficult to adjust properly , so in the end removed the wiring to it completely ....... The steering lock you will have to drill out , I believe ........ The key I had would fit in the lock but refused to turn ...... In the end I just ignored it and left it in place ........

You seemed to be heading in the right direction ....... I guess you have already checked , but does this Ignitech system run through the right handlebar kill switch .... maybe double check the contacts there ........... ? ............
 
rocketonarail said:
Sorry to hear .... I always found the neutral light difficult to adjust properly , so in the end removed the wiring ti it completely ....... The steering lock you will have to drill out , I believe ........ The key I had would fit in the lock but refused to turn ...... In the end I just ignored it and left it in place ........

You seemed to be heading in the right direction ....... I guess you have already checked , but does this Ignitech system run through the right handlebar kill switch .... maybe double check the contacts there ........... ? ............
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Yep it is isolated by the kill switch..
 
Robin Webster said:
Yep it is isolated by the kill switch..
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So I assume you`ve had the switch apart and checked the contacts inside it ? ......... Sorry to harp on , but it might just be down to something like that , intermittent contact and so on ............ HT leads between coils and plug caps .......... Clean earth contacts ........ If you`ve already checked all these then apologies ........

If it were me , I think I would be tempted to dump the whole Ignitech system , get hold of one of those Witt DMC systems , get the stator plate pick up wiring sorted out the best I could ........ and see what happens .......... Not a lot of help as far as you are concerned at the moment I know , but starting again from scratch with a different set up is the sort of thing I would try .........

BTW ..... just noticed about oil on your right foot from the crank end you reckon ? ..... That oil wouldn`t be finding it`s way onto the ignition stator plate , would it ?
 
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rocketonarail said:
So I assume you`ve had the switch apart and checked the contacts inside it ? ......... Sorry to harp on , but it might just be down to something like that , intermittent contact and so on ............ HT leads between coils and plug caps .......... Clean earth contacts ........ If you`ve already checked all these then apologies ........

If it were me , I think I would be tempted to dump the whole Ignitech system , get hold of one of those Witt DMC systems , get the stator plate pick up wiring sorted out the best I could ........ and see what happens .......... Not a lot of help as far as you are concerned at the moment I know , but starting again from scratch with a different set up is the sort of thing I would try .........

BTW ..... just noticed about oil on your right foot from the crank end you reckon ? ..... That oil wouldn`t be finding it`s way onto the ignition stator plate , would it ?
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I am reluctant to buy a MotoWitt as I ran one on the 500 race bike and the connection of its loom and the ECU failed. I ended up with a Dyna 2000. Anyroadup it would be ANOTHER £1000. Perseverance.
I really only went round the block, say 3 miles, so doubt it’s oil interfering with anything - it’s not floods.
Everything else electrical is new.
Going to sort the paint and a few things and get back to he electrics - had enough of them for awhile. I had a dead line and that has passed so might chill a bit through the winter.
 
I realize you've had the carbs apart several times, but to rule them out as a possible problem, have you checked the floats for any leaking, and adjusted all the heights of them? Also if all the cables are properly seated in to the carb cable holders. What do the plugs look like- fouled or burnt?
 
TeddyG said:
I realize you've had the carbs apart several times, but to rule them out as a possible problem, have you checked the floats for any leaking, and adjusted all the heights of them? Also if all the cables are properly seated in to the carb cable holders. What do the plugs look like- fouled or burnt?
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I wouldn't rule out carburetor issues.

An air screw setting far from default 1.5 (+- 1/4) - if still so - could indicate incorrect settings / dirt in the carburettor.

I have experienced the latter on a Laverda that had been standing still for many years. The air screw on one of the carburetors had to be 2 1/2 out to get the best idle, but the engine still ran poorly on the road. I tried several times to clean the carburetors manually, adjust the float level, etc. but the problem was first solved when it got an ultrasonic cleaning.

After that I could set the air screw to default and the engine ran as it should do.

Br Jesper
 
Robin Webster said:
There has developed a bubble in the new paint on the top of the tank so digging around shows a small hole but I’m going to line it with POR15. To do that I emptied out the tank and took the taps off.
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I would recommend to braze solder /hard solder this hole before you put any de-rust process in place or even coat it from inside. I have no experience with Por15 but if it does not close the hole completely, you are facing a re-paint soon.

Wash the tank seriously and let it dry several days open so that all gas from the gasoline is out. Check maybe while all 3 openings of the tank are uncovered by holding a torch close to the filler neck. if no flame comes out of the tank and no explosions, you can safely hard solder it with an open flame... Mine had a very similar dent/hole after a drop in Italy. Andreghetto closed it with car glue (the black thing used to glue in front screens on cars; fortunately it's silicon free...). we repaired it afterwards like above.
 
Robin, reference your comment about flow from the fuel taps - when I rebuilt my '77 Jota 10+ years ago, I bought a pair of cube taps from a seller in Italy.
On the first few rides after the rebuild, the bike ran well, but when I began to open it up a bit it would pop and bang and not go any faster. I traced this back to the fact that the cube taps were too small and had insufficient flow - two new taps fitted, away we go - wide open throttle - wahay, it went like the bloody clappers!!
Could this be your problem??

I think I've got a spare pair of BAP fuel taps that you're welcome to borrow, if you don't have any spares - at least that'll eliminate or solve the problem.

HTH,
Alan
 
a14rgs said:
Robin, reference your comment about flow from the fuel taps - when I rebuilt my '77 Jota 10+ years ago, I bought a pair of cube taps from a seller in Italy.
On the first few rides after the rebuild, the bike ran well, but when I began to open it up a bit it would pop and bang and not go any faster. I traced this back to the fact that the cube taps were too small and had insufficient flow - two new taps fitted, away we go - wide open throttle - wahay, it went like the bloody clappers!!
Could this be your problem??

I think I've got a spare pair of BAP fuel taps that you're welcome to borrow, if you don't have any spares - at least that'll eliminate or solve the problem.

HTH,
Alan
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Alan that could well be it. I see a pair of taps is £75.00.
Here is a picture of mine. It says R101/1 sin on both
IMG_3795.jpeg
 
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